City information

Multi-ethnic, multi-cultural, multi-national, multi-fun: once the “Meeting Place” for Amerindians, now Canada’s largest metropolis, the country’s business and cultural engine, and a great place to visit–welcome to Toronto!

     Restaraunts / Bars

Toronto has everything from the Kama Classical Indian Cuisine’s fiery hot vindaloo and mouth-watering sawara butteryaki at the Rikishi Japanese Restaurant to the upscale French of Arlequin with its duck confit, the power lunches at Acqua, a current hot spot for the downtown business and professional crowd, and the special-occasion deluxe Axcess, on Yonge north of Lawrence.

Cannoli In The Fudge Lying west of Yonge, between College Street and Dundas, Little Italy is a natural place to start the gastronomic search. Host to countless classic Italian ristorantes like Giovanna Trattoria, and Trattoria Giancarlo, this section of real estate is the piece of cannoli in a box of fudge. Although the days of the checkered tablecloth and candle in a chianti bottle may be gone, the mouth-watering food and click-heel service remains. Ironically though, the best pizza does not reside here. We find it a couple of blocks east on Elm, where inside an old Victorian house sizzles Il Fornello.

East of Spadina, from King up to College, sprawls one of Toronto’s Chinatowns?the original. It is here among the proliferation of shops, jewellery stores and banks that we’ll find some of the best Asian-influenced cuisine on the continent: the emperor’s feast at the Bright Pearl Seafood, with imperial lions guarding the entrance; the Thai Princess, with its eager-to-explain uniformed waiters; and the Pho Hung, a Vietnamese hot spot where people actually line up to get in?just like a night club!

Framed by Front to the South and Bloor to the North, Toronto’s downtown core is at its busiest and most expressive during the lunch hour. Sandwiched between Bay and Jarvis, this area encompasses the business and entertainment district of the city. The Shopsy’s Delicatessen location at Front and Yonge is the place if you’re looking to ease your hunger pangs without too much of a pain in your wallet. There’s pastrami on rye, corned beef on a kaiser, roast beef on an onion roll or almost any other deli meat combination you can think of?all topped off with a kosher pickle.

Upscale Uptown Those looking for upscale cuisine and a night cap or two outside the downtown core have only to keep on heading up Yonge towards Eglinton. Clustered around this uptown intersection are some of the city’s very best wining and dining establishments?with a little star-gazing thrown in as icing on the cake. Among the group, North 44, Centro Grill & Wine Bar and Grano stand out: North 44 for the inventive cookery of five-star chef Mark McEwan; Centro for its parade of celebrities and unusual combo of sushi bar and Italian cuisine; and Grano for the fresh bread, pick-your-own display-case antipasti and its feeling of old-style warmth and friendliness.

Sports fans have little to complain about when searching for their favourite foods and ambience. There are plenty of places where you can put your foot on the rail, sip a cool lager and watch your team on a big-screen TV. A good starting point is the Hard Rock Cafe at the SkyDome where you can chew on a burger and take part in the seventh inning stretch at the same time. For a more laid-back scene, you can try Hoops Sports Bar & Grill. Located near the Maple Leaf Gardens, this bar went from frenzied to comfortable once the hockey team moved to the Air Canada Centre. And, of course, there’s Wayne Gretzky’s itself at 99 Blue Jays Way. The Great One, who many argue is the best hockey player of all time, occasionally drops in to autograph a few sticks and napkins.

Decisions, Decisions Still can’t decide? Maybe a short list is in order: for the view, 360 Degrees, the Restaurant at the CN Tower; for the sights, Crocodile Rock on Thursday; for the 5:01 blues, Joe Rockhead’s Rock Bottom Club or the Jump Cafe; for that romantic tete-a-tete, the Corner House or La Maquette; for a wee pint of Guinness or a stout ale, McVeigh’s New Windsor Tavern and Scotland Yard respectively; for a ball-busting-up game of pool, Milwaukee’s Good Bites Beerateria; for a thick, juicy piece of meat done just so, Carman’s Dining Club.

Lest we forget that most important meal of the day, the breakfast-brunch, Toronto offers a variety ranging from the simply solid, void-filling and all-day version at Mars Restaurant to sophisticated entrees, bubbly and jazz accompaniment at Sassafraz.

And we haven’t mentioned African (L’Abidjannaise), Turkish (A La Turka), German (The Musket), Russian (Samovar Barmalay), Serbian (Skadarlija), Armenian (Armenian Kitchen), Persian (Darvish), Middle Eastern (Free Times Cafe), Mexican (Blue Agave), Spanish (Casa Barcelona)?the list goes on and on.

Yes, Toronto has come a long way from its reputation as a steak and kidney pie kind of town. In fact, the culinary school at George Brown College is producing five-star chefs for the rest of the continent and has its own top-notch restaurant in Siegfried’s, and a person could probably spend decades testing every restaurant in town. But, hey, if you’re really desperate to dig into that “eye,” try the Elephant and Castle, Foster’s On Elm, or Duke of Gloucester. The steak and kidney pie is still there. Only now it has a lot of culinary company.

     Recommended tours

There are endless possibilities for walking tours in Toronto and, with so many neighbourhoods marked by their own history and presence, it’s hard to know where to start. However, two definite must-see areas are the entertainment and financial districts, and the Old Town of York.

To get a sense of Toronto’s entertainment district, start at the corner of King and John. This area (stretching to Simcoe) is known as Mirvish Walkway or Mirvish Village, named after Ed Mirvish and his son, who have spent awesome amounts refurbishing the area, turning many of the theatres and restaurants into first-class establishments. Their most famous project, the Royal Alexandra Theatre, was saved from certain destruction and has become one of the city’s entertainment jewels.

Just down and across the street, there’s no missing the grand exterior of Roy Thomson Hall, with its glass and upside-down mushroom shape. The interior of this performance hall, a favourite venue for the Toronto Symphony and Mendelssohn Choir, is just as spectacular: luminous and elaborate decor topped by impeccable acoustics.

Time-Warp Architecture Head east and, on the corner of King and Simcoe, you’ll find St. Andrews Presbyterian Church. Constructed in 1876, the church was saved in the 1980’s when SunLife Tower paid over $4 million to build above and below it. The Scottish Romanesque Revival architecture stands in time-warp contrast to the skyscraping steel and glass around it.

Halfway between York and Bay you’ll pass the Standard Life Building, which stands beside the awesome Toronto Dominion Centre, consisting of five monolithic skyscrapers. The creation of famous modernist Ludwig Mies van der Rohe, the centrepiece building of the group?the Toronto Dominion Tower?was the first International Style skyscraper in the city when built in the late 1960’s. The finished product was a meticulously constructed work of art that, while perhaps not visually stunning, set the tone for the architecture that followed.

Heading north on Bay you’ll come across the National Club Building, a Neo-Georgian structure built in 1874 to promote the Canada First movement?patriots who fought to prevent union with the United States. Just up the street is the Canada Permanent Building, an historic site built in 1929. The Art Deco style along with the vaulted entrance and sculpted bronze elevator doors make the interior a must-see. Back up to King and further east stands the Canadian Imperial Bank of Commerce. When it was built in 1931, the 34-storey building was the tallest in the British Empire. Its Romanesque-Revival architecture, handsome wrought-iron detail and gilded mouldings work well even in the contemporary backdrop of the city’s financial district.

Classic Greek Revival Further west and right on Wellington can be found the old Commercial Bank of Midland District, now called Number Fifteen. The oldest structure in the area, it was built in 1845 in classic Greek Revival style. Down Bay and south to Front brings you to the old Toronto Stock Exchange, now the Design Exchange, which exhibits work from some of the world’s finest fashion and graphic designers.

On Front Street stands Union Station, completed in 1927 after 12 years of construction. The work of architects Ross and MacDonald, the building was modelled after the great U.S. railway stations and inspired by the basilicas of Ancient Rome. The massive, 250-metre long building sports magnificent columns, beautifully vaulted ceilings and ornate etchings in its stone walls.

If you’ve got some energy left after visiting the entertainment and financial districts, continue with a tour of the Old Town of York, where you’ll get a sense of Toronto’s rich history. Start at the corner of Yonge and Wellington and walk east to the Gooderham Building, financed by distilleries mogul George Gooderham and also known as the Flatiron Building due to its triangular structure.

Turning onto Front, the Beardmore Building stands out. During the 19th century, the area was known as the warehouse district, and this building was one of the first structures built to accommodate the busy waterfront industries. Further east to Jarvis, the historic St. Lawrence Market bustles more than ever with its fresh fruit, vegetable, cheese and meat vendors. Built in 1844, Toronto’s city hall stood here until 1904 when the space was converted into a public market. Since then it has been expanded, though the old city hall facade is still recognizable. Once home to working-class Irish Protestant immigrants employed in the many factories and warehouses surrounding it, the St. Lawrence Market area today is a trendy neighbourhood, with a nice blend of old and new.

An Educational Spot East on Front, you’ll find Trinity, a beautiful old street that features the Enoch Turner Schoolhouse, the oldest school building in the city and the first to offer free education. It was built in 1848 by Enoch Turner, a local brewer who employed many of the folks who lived in the area. A few steps south is Little Trinity Church, which was built for area Anglicans who couldn’t afford the steep pew rents at St. James Cathedral. While not as spectacular as the city’s other old churches, the simple Tudor Gothic styling gives it an almost magical appeal.

North to King, there’s no missing St. James Cathedral, Toronto’s first Anglican church, boasting the highest steeple in Canada and the second highest in North America. Built in 1819, the church was destroyed in a fire that devastated the entire city in 1849. It was rebuilt by architect Frederich Cumberland, who redid the exterior in Gothic Style.

Walk west and turn north on Toronto Street and you’ll notice a building with architecture resembling a Greek temple, complete with symmetrical Ionic columns. Occupied today by the Argus Corporation, it was once a customs office, a branch of the Bank of Canada and a Post Office.

Back on King, between Church and Leader Lane, comes the magnificent King Edward Hotel, designed by the same architect who oversaw the original City Hall and Massey Hall.

To finish off your tour, return to St. James Cathedral, walk through the Toronto Sculpture Garden, and you’ll find yourself at Market Square. Here you can relax in one of the many cafes, enjoying the bustle of Toronto’s oldest neighbourhood.

     Where to stay

Be you business traveller or world-wandering vagabond, when visiting Toronto, there are two major options on where to stay?and more than 32,000 hotel rooms from which to choose! If you are here for a brief visit, then the airport strip is home to many excellent hotels. However, if it’s an extended trip or business that takes you into the city, then the sights and sounds of the bright lights and the big city’s downtown is what you may be looking for.

Classy Fly-By-Nights Imagine a hotel so close to the airport that the only way you’ll see a cab is if you happen to be watching Taxi Driver in your hotel room. Actually located within Toronto’s Pearson International Airport, the Sheraton Gateway is a full amenity, 500-room hotel that is a covered walk from Terminal 3, or a complimentary shuttle from Terminals 1 and 2.

If you’re a little more adventurous and actually would like to leave the confines of the airport, a short loop limousine ride will bring you to the Airport strip. Consisting of Airport and Dixon Roads, this piece of the Monopoly board belongs primarily to the well-known hotel chains. And, with 50 airport hotel locations throughout the world, no landing strip would be complete without the Airport Hilton, providing high-end comfort for those who prefer executive class accommodations.

As well, the newly renovated Best Western Carlton Place, the fashionable Delta Toronto Airport and the Toronto Airport Marriott on Dixon Road are top-flight hotels that cater to the business and leisure traveller alike with indoor pools, health clubs and on-site restaurants. In addition, there is the warm and familiar Days Inn on Airport Road, with facilities for the entire family at very moderate rates.

Hospitality To The Core Toronto’s downtown is approximately a 20-minute ride from the airport, with the core offering a much greater selection when it comes to suitable accommodations?everything from five-star grand dame hotels to bring-your-own-bed youth hostels, from bed and breakfasts to room service on the terrace.

Directly opposite Union Station stands the granddaddy of all Toronto hotels, the Royal York. At the heart of Toronto since 1929, this hotel is what lodging was once all about. Big and spacious, with a ballroom for a reception area, it is also the entryway to the downtown underground shopping complex known as The PATH.

Further west on Front Street is the Crowne Plaza-Toronto Centre. Ideally situated adjacent to the Metro Toronto Convention Centre and around the corner from the CN Tower and SkyDome, this deluxe hotel is equipped to provide for both the businessperson and the family on the go.

Then there’s Renaissance Hotel At SkyDome itself, a four-star hotel right out of left field. Or out in left field. It’s the world’s only sports and entertainment hotel and, with floor-to-ceiling glass walls overlooking the baseball field, a unique sporting experience in more ways than one. Just a long home run away from the SkyDome is the Westin Harbour Castle. Located on Harbour Square with rooms fronting Lake Ontario, this hotel provides spectacular scenery from both the hotel and the 360-degree revolving Lighthouse Restaurant.

Most of the major hotel chains are represented in Toronto’s business and entertainment districts. Across from Nathan Phillips Square and Toronto City Hall, the Sheraton Centre Hotel and Towers on Queen Street West is 43 floors of award-winning accommodations. Around the corner from the Sheraton is the Toronto Hilton on Richmond. The Holiday Inn on King, opened in 1991, is close to the theatre district and is consistently one of the top-rated hotels within the Holiday Inn empire.

All The Marbles With its marble pillars and vaulted ceilings, the King Edward provides Edwardian luxury and elegance within Toronto’s high end business sector. It’s embraced as much for its gracious style as for the gourmet cuisine dished out from Chiaro’s, the critically acclaimed on-site restaurant. If the King Edward is elegance, the Delta Chelsea Inn at Gerrard and Bay takes the cake for size. With 1,591 (or so) rooms, it’s considered the largest hotel in Canada.

West of Yonge on King is the totally out of place Executive Motor Hotel. More of a motel or a motor inn than a hotel, you’d expect to find this in the suburban outskirts rather than in a big city inner core. Nevertheless, if you feel the need for down home comfort with lots of parking, then this independent is available for about half the price of the bigger, swankier hotels.

For those who need longer-term accommodations or accommodations that provide kitchenettes and other conveniences, Toronto has a number of executive apartments available on a daily, weekly or monthly basis. These include the Alexandra Apartment Hotel on Ryerson, north of Queen and east of Bathurst, offering daily maid service and direct phone lines, and Bay Bloor Executive Suites.

Away From The Beaten Path There are a range of B&Bs available in Toronto for those who prefer the old-fashioned comfort of a large house, the company of pleasant hosts and a secluded street close to but away from the hustle and bustle. The Ambassador Inn on Jarvis is a century-old renovated mansion that’s a good alternative to some of the higher-priced chain hotels. Two streets east of Jarvis, in the Old Cabbagetown district, another Victorian B&B, the Aberdeen Guest House, offers a communal setting with large, spacious bedrooms and a weekday continental breakfast.

Finally, for those travelling light and for both the young and the young at heart, the Global Village Backpackers at Spadina and King comes with 200 beds, multiple washrooms, games rooms and a locker facility.

The final decision, of course, is yours. Five-star luxury or bare-bones economy, Toronto is not only an accommodating place but has the accommodations to suit your needs.

C. Dwayne Smith

     Getting there

By Air: Toronto Lester B Pearson International Airport (YYZ) (+1 416 776 3000/http://www.gtaa.com) houses the following airlines:

Air Canada ( +1 800 776 3000/ http://www.aircanada.ca)

Air France ( +1 800 871 1366/ http://www.airfrance.com ) American Airlines (+1 800 433 7300/ http://www.aa.com) Continental ( +1 800 525 0280/ http://www.continental.com)

Delta ( +1 800 221 1212/ http://www.delta.com)

Northwest ( +1 800 225 2525/ http://www.nwa.com)

Southwest (+1 800 435 9792/ http://www.southwest.com) United ( +1 800 241 6522/ http://www.ual.com)

US Airways ( +1 800 428 4322/ http://www.usairways.com)

Rental car companies include:

Avis ( +1 800 831 2847/ http://www.avis.com )

Budget ( +1 800 527 0700/ http://www.budget.com )

Dollar ( +1 800 4000/ http://www.dollar.com )

Enterprise ( +1 800 325 8007/ http://www.enterprise.com)

Hertz ( +1 800 654 3131/ http://www.hertz.com

National ( +1 800 227 7368/ http://www.nationalcar.com )

Thrifty ( +1 800 367 2277/ http://www.thrifty.com )

Airport Shuttles include:

Airlink Airport Service (+1 519 756 1944, +1 877 405 8278)

Air York Inc. (+1 888 795 2777, +1 905 953 9980)

Airways Transit (Hamilton Division) (http://www.airwaystransit.com, +1 905 689 4460)

Coach Canada (http://www.coachcanada.com, +1 800 461 7661)

By Train:

Amtrak services Toronto daily ( +1 800 872 7245/ http://www.amtrak.com ).

By Bus:

Greyhound services Toronto from Nationwide locations ( +1 800 231 2222; +1 416 594 1010/ http://www.greyhound.ca/).

By Car:

Toronto can be accessed by Routes 8, 25, 400, and 401.

Getting Around:

The Westbound GO Bus takes passengers to central stops in Bramalea and Brampton. The Eastbound GO Bus takes passengers to north Toronto including the Yorkdale and York Mills subway stations. One-way cash adult fare is $3.40. For more information call +1 416 869 3200 or +1 888 GET ON GO (438 6646) or visit their web site at www.gotransit.com.

Mississauga Transit One-way cash adult fare is $2.25. For more information, contact Mississauga Transit Information Line at +1 905 615 INFO (615 4636) or visit their web site at www.city.mississauga.on.ca/transit.

Pacific Western Airport Express This is a 24 hour service. Destinations include the downtown bus terminal as well as several major downtown hotels. Connecting service to other downtown locations is also available for an additional fee. For more information call +1 905 564 6333 or +1 800 387 6787 or visit their web site www.torontoairportexpress.com.

Toronto Transit Commission (TTC) runs seven days a week. For more information call +1 416 393 4636 or visit their web site www.ttc.ca.

Taxi companies providing service to the Toronto area include:

Royal Taxi (+1 416 777 9222/http://www.royaltaxi.ca)

Able Atlantic Taxi (+1 416 298 1111)

Beck Taxi (+1 416 751 5555 / http://www.becktaxi.com)

Diamond Taxi (+1 416 366 6868/)

     District guide

The spectacular ride up the CN Tower, the world’s highest free-standing structure, with its rotating restaurant giving diners a breath-taking view of the city, day or night.

The ferry trip from the Harbourfront across the waters of Lake Ontario to the serene and peaceful Toronto Islands, created by a freak storm.

The more than 7,000 fine dining establishments, bars, cafes, bistros, clubs and dance halls to suit every taste from bohemian to business.

The top-of-the-line professional sports teams?Maple Leafs, Raptors, Blue Jays and Argos?playing at stadiums that are the envy of other cities.

The world-class museums, art galleries, theatres, dance companies, festivals and parades that add creativity and culture to an already vibrant city.

Any of these could serve to define Toronto. But what the city is really all about is the people. And it shouldn’t surprise anyone that the name “Toronto” comes from a Huron word meaning “Meeting Place.” That’s exactly what it is: a multicultural meeting place for more than 4.5 million, home to people of more than 70 different nationalities speaking some 100 languages. That multi-ethnic gathering has given the city an exciting and awesome energy. It has also created a place of wonderful neighbourhoods, each with its defining character and local colour: from Rosedale to Little Italy, from Greektown to Cabbagetown, from one Chinatown to the next.

Canada’s Metropolis The biggest city in Canada and the fifth largest in North America, Toronto is located on the northern shore of Lake Ontario. Laid out in a rectangular grid, the city stretches for more than 100 square kilometres. Yonge Street, known as the longest thoroughfare in the world, is the main north-south route. Toronto is an important centre of international commerce, and houses the Toronto Stock Exchange, second only in North America to the New York Stock Exchange.

Architecturally speaking, Toronto is an amalgam of different styles. In the early 19th century, it took much of its architectural inspiration from the Georgian style. By the end of the 19th century, the city opted for the heavier, bulkier lines of Richardsonian Romanesque. At the turn of the 20th century, the Toronto City Council opted not to put a height restriction on downtown construction as many other cities had, thus giving rise to some of the tallest buildings in the British Commonwealth, including the 34-storey Canadian Bank of Commerce. Of course, these buildings have been surpassed in recent years by the silhouettes that give Toronto its unique skyline: the CN Tower, SkyDome, Royal Bank Plaza, and the TD Centre, to name a few.

Getting Around Getting around Toronto is easier than 1-2-3. Aside from the numerous cabs that swarm the city, the Toronto Transit Commission (TTC) runs a world-class subway system, streetcars and buses. Wherever you end up, there’s sure to be an easy way to get to your next destination.

While the city may once have had a reputation as Toronto The Good, a nondescript place which shut down and rolled up the sidewalks at sundown, nothing could be further from the truth today. The city is alive with some of the best theatres, museums and galleries anywhere. For example, Toronto is the third largest centre of English-speaking theatre productions in the world (next to London and New York), with more than 200 professional theatre companies and 10,000 performances a year.

One of the oldest theatre spaces in the city, the Royal Alexandra dates back to the early 20th century. Saved from demolition by bargain store king and impresario “Honest” Ed Mirvish, the theatre was renovated at great expense and brought back to its original splendour, and is now home to some of Broadway’s finest productions from “Phantom” to “Cats.” The Royal Ontario Museum and the Art Gallery of Ontario present spectacular exhibits for the entire family, while the National Ballet is a world-class dance troupe.

City Of Stars Similarly, there’s a thriving film industry in the city. Often called “Hollywood North,” Toronto is sought after for its diversity, locations, excellent production centres and local talent. The Toronto International Film Festival, which takes place annually in September, draws countless filmgoers.

Eating out in Toronto is an experience unto itself. With a plethora of different cultures and neighbourhoods bumping into one another like pieces of tectonic plates, the cuisine is as diverse as the population?and matching any taste and affordability, from the unlimited expense account to those counting their pennies. In fact, while there are plenty of upscale haute cuisineries where price is of no concern, some of the best food Toronto has to offer is tucked away in the small eateries of the city’s original Chinatown. Here you will find Chinese, Vietnamese, Malaysian, Thai, Indonesian and Japanese dishes to satisfy both the timid and the adventurous. Or check out the Beaches with its lively, pedestrian-filled sidewalks and laid-back neighbourhood character. Greektown and Little India restaurants serve up authentic cuisine, whose aromas waft gently out onto the streets.

This Sporting Life Aside from the Air Canada Centre and the SkyDome housing the city’s pro sports teams, Toronto is also known for its Woodbine horse track, the largest racing property in North America and home to the Queen’s Plate thoroughbred race held each August. And race car fanatics will have no trouble picking up the roar of Molson Indy engines come summer.

While there is so much to see and do, to experience and taste, it’s the residents of Toronto who give the city its special cachet. More often than not, people are glad to stop and give you directions. And don’t be surprised if they tarry and chat a while, recommending places to go or filling you in on pieces of their city’s history. This is what Toronto is all about. Not just a vast, sprawling metropolis. Not just a collection of concrete and cars. But a meeting place. The Hurons gave them the name. They try to do it proud.

     Historical background

British and French fur traders and explorers arriving in the late 16th century changed the power balance in the region. At first, Toronto was interesting for them only as the end of the canoe route from Quebec City. Etienne Brule, the first European known to visit the canoe “carrying place” the Hurons called Toronto, had no idea he was standing on the site of Canada’s largest city-to-be.

In 1751, the French erected Fort Rouille where Toronto stands today, thus making the city’s earliest European roots French rather than British. Destroyed only eight years later in the Seven Years’ War, the fort lay burnt until hundreds of British loyalists, fleeing the newly formed United States following the War of Independence, populated the Lake Ontario area.

Swampy Garrison Town John Graves Simcoe, the first Lieutenant-Governor of Upper Canada (now Ontario), set up a strategically well-positioned but swampy garrison town of 12 cottages on the lakeshore around the former French post and, in 1793, the town was named Fort York in honour of the Duke of York. Fort York (now an open-air museum) was soon made the capital of Upper Canada, and later of Ontario.

Ironically, Simcoe’s family decided to leave “Muddy York” in 1796, thinking that the stagnating settlement didn’t have much of a future. Nevertheless, by 1800, the rectangular grid-iron that still defines Toronto was laid out, largely ignoring the deep ravines, hills and small rivers that shaped the landscape.

The 700 inhabitants of York came under American occupation for a few days during the British-American War of 1812. But the Americans quickly retreated when the war started to go badly for them. In 1834, it took another influential politician to switch the city’s name back to Toronto. However, it wasn’t all clear sailing for William Lyon Mackenzie, the first mayor of the 9,000-population city under its new (old) name. In 1837, the fiery Scot was forced to flee to the U.S. after leading a failed rebellion to achieve political reform against the so-called “Family Compact,” a group of British nobles who ran the city at their discretion without any checks or balances. The group was finally brought down thanks to public outcry, and Mackenzie returned to Canada 12 years later following a pardon.

Reflecting Puritanical Roots Looking at a map of Toronto in the late 19th century, you can see an urban area reflecting its puritanical roots in the conservative layout. It also lived up to its nickname of “The Big Smoke” with a New World version of industrial London: a busy, polluting harbour, factory chimneys spewing untreated soot into the air, coal-black railways chugging away and the obligatory slums as well as mansions, Victorian colleges and churches. The nickname took on a tragic significance in 1904 when a fire destroyed more than 100 buildings in the downtown core. Fifty years earlier, nature had actually helped create a part of Toronto: The Islands, a 15-minute ferry ride from the downtown Harbourfront, were formed by a heavy storm cutting off a spit of land from the mainland.

Toronto lost 10,000 lives when many of its British immigrant inhabitants volunteered to fight in World War I. Then came the Great Depression of the 1930’s, bringing hunger, homelessness and an unemployment rate over 30 percent. World War II again meant Canadian men trooping off to fight in Europe, but also British children fleeing the bombings and European refugees coming to Canada, with many settling in Toronto.

Post-war Toronto, even though it claimed close to 1 million inhabitants, was nothing like the city of today: no skyscrapers, no large Chinese, Portuguese, Greek or Italian communities, no extensive subway system, no bars and closed and curtained shops on Sundays. The new council of Metro Toronto, joining the city and its suburbs in 1953, initiated an unparalleled construction boom in the 1960’s.

A City of Superlatives Torontonians are proud of their superlatives and sometimes see life as an extension of the “Guinness Book of World Records,” an attitude that helps puff up the city’s collective chest but also lends some credence to its reputation for egocentricity (as in the long-standing joke in the newspaper headline, “Toronto Unscathed in World-Wide Nuclear Holocaust!”). The city lays claim to the tallest free-standing structure in the world (the CN Tower at 553m), the first fully-retractable roofed stadium (SkyDome), the longest street (Yonge Street, more than 1,900 km), Canada’s biggest museum (Royal Ontario Museum) and university (University of Toronto), the biggest castle in North America (Casa Loma), North America’s second largest public transit system (the TTC), and an 11-km maze of underground malls.

Peter Ustinov once called modern-day Toronto a “New York run by the Swiss.” Now that New York seems itself to be run by the Swiss, that label might no longer be appropriate. Nevertheless, the city prides itself on its clean and safe streets and large, open green spaces. More importantly, it is the cultural and financial centre of the country, an economic powerhouse with a budget bigger than that of the province of Saskatchewan, and home within a 160-km area to a full one-third of all Canadians.

The over 50 percent non-white population is shifting the city’s ethnic neighbourhoods around; old Victorian areas, once rundown or abandoned, are being gentrified; the skyline glitters from afar with bank towers and shopping skyscrapers like the 65-storey Scotia Plaza; and urban development is about to radically change the lakeshore. Outdoor festivals, patios, a new openness and willingness to have fun and to partake in public life?this is the Toronto of today.

Jutta Brendemuhl

     Entertainment

The grassroots of theatre are just as fresh and strong in Toronto. Community-centred theatres such as Tarragon and the Factory master challenges like Beckett, as well as drama from new and upcoming playwrights. Modern dance has found a home in the Premiere Dance Theatre, a multicultural venue for music and movement at the Harbourfront Centre. More classical but nevertheless innovative performances can be seen at the National Ballet Company, considered the top dance troupe in the country. The Laugh Resort and Yuk Yuk are still defending their positions as the major comedy spots, but recently Rivoli’s backroom has established a reputation for edgy comedy.

Not only is Toronto one of the most popular American film sets?watch out for huge white trucks and sealed-off streets?it’s also a great movie theatre city, especially at fringe and second-run cinemas like the Bloor or the Fox. Apart from Hollywood fare at entertainment complexes like the downtown Paramount, you can see international films at the Cumberland, and theme retrospectives at the Cinematheque. Not to mention the Toronto International Film Festival, considered among the top in the world.

Hot Nightclub Country No, those queues you see as you walk along Richmond Street aren’t for soup kitchens. You’re in hot nightclub country, the places where only the coolest and hippest get in. Most clubs don’t specialize in one style, but often change their playlist daily from retro to dub to techno in order to attract the most diverse dance crowd. The biggest club around here is the Whiskey Saigon, a three-level auditorium-sized dance hall for the masses. The Big Bop is nearly as big, but stays true to its alternative roots. College Street and environs is another good strip with the smoky Comfort Zone late-night hangout or the en vogue Lava Club.

For live music events, the Bamboo serves up reggae/ragga/salsa, while the nearby Horseshoe Tavern is still the place to see a great young band before they fill the concert halls (and, occasionally, bands like The Tragically Hip putting in sneak appearances). The same goes for the Cameron House, where everything from jazz to experimental music fills the cozy lounge. Toronto is on the A-list for pretty much every major tour in North America, from the Three Tenors in the SkyDome multi-purpose stadium to the Buena Vista Social Club in old Massey Hall or Celine Dion at the Air Canada Centre. The repertoire of classical music offerings is too long to list, but Roy Thomson Hall is a safe starting point for excellent acoustics, be it for the Toronto Symphony Orchestra, the Mendelssohn Choir or the latest Philip Glass opera.

The Air Canada Centre is home to two of Toronto’s big sports teams. Cheer the Raptors as they slam dunk against their NBA competitors and the popular blue-and-white Maple Leafs playing for ice hockey’s Stanley Cup. They compete for spectators with the Blue Jays, who swing their baseball bats in the 53,000-seat SkyDome, and the Canadian Football League Argonauts.

Street Life Central Over the last 10 years, Toronto has discovered street life. In the summer, you will have trouble deciding whether to go to Nathan Phillips Square or to Harbourfront for free concerts and different festivals every weekend. East along the lakeshore, Ontario Place combines waterpark fun with massive open-air rock concerts and the first Imax Theatre (Ontario Place Cinesphere) in a family amusement park.

Icy cold winters don’t keep Torontonians from having fun. If you don’t find yourself at Harbourfront or Nathan Phillips Square for skating and hot cider, check out the plethora of museums. Canada’s largest museum is the Royal Ontario Museum (ROM), an all-round museum with adjoining planetarium, greeting you with four impressive Amerindian totem poles in the hall. The Art Gallery of Ontario (AGO) boasts an extensive and well-presented collection of landscape paintings by Canada’s famous Group of Seven. Don’t miss the world’s largest exhibit of Henry Moore sculptures, beautifully arranged by the artist. The AGO is also known for the skillfully simple Inuit stone carvings, as is the Toronto Dominion Gallery of Inuit Art. On a lighter note, the Bata Shoe Museum is unique; among their 10,000 shoes are Elvis’ blue suede loafers. The Hockey Hall of Fame also has shoes, but only those with blades beneath them.

If you see nothing else of downtown Toronto, you have to walk Queen Street West between University and Spadina avenues: restaurant next to patio bar next to pub next to pool place next to hip fashion store. Since this strip is becoming increasingly commercialized, the more alternative clubs, cafes and galleries have moved to “West Queen West” (Spadina to Bathurst). The uptown?and up-market?equivalent of this area is Yorkville, a handful of blocks of nouvelle cuisine temples like the Sassafraz, and over a dozen exquisite galleries for every collector’s taste, which lend Toronto a bit of Montmartre flavour.

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