City information

A mountain resort with fine bars, restaurants, hotels and ski slopes. But the real star here is the huge, surrounding national park, with its spectacular canyons, peaks, glaciers and wildlife, and seemingly limitless opportunities for outdoor adventure.

  Restaraunts / Bars

Jasper is well known as an international resort destination offering cuisine from around the globe. The boisterous ski town serves legions of thirsty skiers with ferocious appetites for food and drink. The town is relatively quiet during the daylight hours, which gives food connoisseurs the opportunity to sample Jasper’s finest fare in peace. Things get busier when the ski lifts close for the night and the bars open their doors. Most of the independent restaurants can be found on Patricia Street or Connaught Drive in the heart of downtown

Any self-respecting Alberta restaurant has steak on its menu. Albertans are very proud of their beef and manage to integrate it into almost every meal and dish. While steak is the backbone of most menus, you can usually find some more exotic dishes. Buffalo, caribou and elk are often featured and provide a flavourful alternative to beefsteak. Other common entrees include British Columbian salmon, halibut and shrimp, along with locally raised duck and goose. There is no roast hound at the The De’d Dog Bar & Grill, but you will find a cozy local hangout that is always open, with some of the fastest service in town.

Jasper has managed to keep almost all of the large chain fast-food restaurants out of town, so the selection of greasy burgers and fries is quite limited. On the plus side, there is a constantly-changing assortment of small restaurants which, for a dollar or two more, will serve you all your favourite short-order foods with far superior ingredients. There are no ?greasy spoon? diners in town either; wherever you go, you can be assured of a fine dining experience. If your tastes are a little more international, most restaurant genres are well represented. Superb Greek food can be found at the Kontos on Patricia Street, and fans of Italian will get their pizza and pasta fix from Michenellis. If you just can’t be kept away from your e-mail responsibilities for a few days, there are several Internet cafes, including the Soft Rock Internet Cafe and The Tuning Point. If a steaming bowl of noodles and prawns is more your style, the Denjiro Japanese Restaurant lends a zesty Eastern spice to the mountain air. For those with a persistent sweet tooth, The Fudgery churns out great vats of sweet, sticky delight on Caunnaght Drive, near the railway tracks.

One advantage to being such a small town is that everything is very close together, and all of the bars are within walking distance of the downtown hotels. This rules out the need for a taxi ride after a night of celebration. The Jasper nightlife is not as consistent as that in Banff, and some nights the bars are virtually deserted. On other nights, particularly after a unusually large snowfall at the Marmot Basin Ski Area, it is tough to find room in any of the more popular establishments. The D’ed Dog Cafe, Atha-B Tavern and Peter’s Place are the three most boisterous nightclubs; they keep many an exhausted skier on their feet and dancing long into the morning hours. For a more relaxed lounge atmosphere, the Whistle Stop Pub, conveniently located on the main floor of the Whistle Stop Inn on Main Street has all the dark oaken decor and even darker Irish beer you can handle. This pub is frequently visited by film crews and extreme skiers, and it is not unusual to see world-class daredevils pounding back ale after spending a long day defying death on the slopes.

There are very few martini lounges and other more refined drinking establishments in Jasper. If you are in the mood for a relaxed evening, most hotels have guests-only lounges, which serve vintage wines and scotches and occasionally, micro-brewed beers.

While drinking in Jasper, it is a good idea to get to know a few of the locals. Every bar or lounge in town has a particular night of the week when you can expect to find more action than any other. Ask around at the ski shops or in the cafes to find out the most recent scoop on the nightlife. The locals are quite proud of the rough and ready nature of their town and quickly convert many tourists. Enjoy your stay, but mind the local wildlife!

Jim Coates

    Recommended tours

There are many ways to see Jasper. From the comfort of a tour bus or deluxe railcoach to sitting astride a horse in a high mountain pass, the opportunities for exploration are endless.

A short walk through town will take you by the headquarters for many tour companies, wilderness outfitters, whitewater rafting companies and even dog sled companies, where you can inquire about tour dates and haggle over prices. The town of Jasper sits at the north end of the Icefields Parkway, and is the northernmost mountain town in Alberta. The area is rich in history and natural resorces, not the least of which are the spectacular views. Photographers and nature-lovers will be delighted by both the mountain panoramas and abundant wildlife.

In the town of Jasper, there are many ways to get familiar with the park before you venture out into the wilderness. The Jasper Information Centre is a good place to start, and can give you a good overview of the park, its attractions and hazards. For local history, the Jasper-Yellowhead Museum gives you the background you need to fully appreciate the people who have called this area home for thousands of years and the history of the park itself.

If you don’t feel like tromping around on your own two feet, there are quite a few mechanized ways to see the park. A fine way to tour the mountains is aboard one of the luxurious cars of the Canadian Pacific Railroad sightseeing trains. Trips can last up to several days and take you on a journey through the mountains of Alberta and eastern British Columbia. Billionaire Bill Gates recently booked the entire train for a week, in order to have a little peace and quiet.

Brewster Tours runs a fleet of tour buses which shuttle visitors through Banff and Jasper. The motorcoaches are well-appointed, and have interpretive guides to explain points of interest. For a little extra adventure, you can sign up for Brewster’s Snocoach tour of the Athabasca Glacier. SnoCoaches are huge tour buses with monster-truck tires for driving right up onto the surface of the glacier.

Those who want a closer look can get out and walk around on the surface of the ice itself. If you don’t particularly feel like crawling up onto the glacier, you can learn all about its history and unique geography at the Icefield Centre.

A good way to see the park at your own pace is in a rental car, but make sure you check road conditions before heading out, as many of the backroads are not regularly maintained.

In the summer, you can rent a mountain bike and explore the trails around Jasper. The Pyramid Bench and Five Lakes Trails are especially good for cyclists. In the winter, a snowmobile tour allows you to get far into the back-country with a minimum of effort. Horse-drawn sleigh rides are available in the winter at the base of Pyramid mountain, and in the summer you can take a multi-day horseback pack trip into the highlands behind Pyramid Mountain.

Fishing is allowed in the park, and there are many fine waters ready for anglers to wet their lines. Eastern Brook and Rainbow trout are the two most popular quarries, and can be found in many of the lakes and rivers. Make sure to purchase a Parks Canada fishing license and obtain a copy of the regulations before you head out on the water?or better yet, obtain the services of a guide to show you where the lungers hang out.

White water rafting expeditions are available both on the upper Maligne River and the Fraser River to the west from May to September. Marmot Basin is the only downhill ski area in the park, and is one of the most spectacular in Canada. Well known for its uncrowded lift lines and plentiful fresh powder snow, it is a delight for both skiers and snowboarders.

Parker Ridge is a popular back-country area for self-propelled adventurers. Make sure that you have up to date avalanche information, proper gear and winter survival training before you head off the beaten track, lest a snowslide turn you into an icicle.

Summer and winter, Maligne Canyon is a popular excursion. Only a 10-minute drive from Jasper, the chasm is hundreds of feet deep, while only about 10 feet wide, and is filled with churning water in the warmer months. In the winter it freezes into a fantasyland of twisted ice, and makes for a spectacular walk.

No matter what you choose to do, make sure to consult with parks staff to ensure that you won’t run into any unexpected problems. The park is still very wild, and it’s better to be safe than sorry.

Jim Coates

   Where to stay

Jasper is a tiny town with a disproportionately large number of hotels. Every second building seems to host accommodations of some type, and you should have no problem finding a room to suit your taste and budget. However, keep in mind that the town is often booked solid during summer long weekends and the winter holiday season. Advance reservations are a necessity. Because Jasper is a seasonal town, room availability and rates fluctuate. Prices often double during Christmas vacation. During the winter ski season hotels are packed with rowdy skiers and snowboarders who come to enjoy the deep powder of Marmot Basin during the day and the wild nightlife of downtown after dark. If you are planning on a quiet family or romantic getaway, it is best to avoid the university spring break season (February 6-22), as well as the first two weekends in January. During these times, the town takes on a festive atmosphere, and the drunken carolling of vacationing university students can last through the night.

Jasper is one of the nicest small towns you could ever hope to visit. Hotels can be found on the main streets, in the residential areas, at the ski hill, and even alongside lakes in the middle of the wilderness. Jasper National Park, which surrounds the town, has a number of hostels for the more adventurous traveller, and for the truly rustic, the park has cabins with no running water or electricity. The Jasper International Hostel at the base of the Whistlers Mountain Tramway is a great place for planning and staging hiking or climbing trips, and the Maligne Canyon Hostels offer a bare-bones shelter with only the most minimal modern luxuries and distractions. Should you feel like getting even closer to nature, there are government and privately operated campgrounds surrounding the town and scattered throughout the park. If you are planning on camping, visit the Park Information Centre and inquire about the current campground conditions before you set off.

If you would like to have all the amenities of a big hotel without the impersonal feel, then you might be interested in staying at a bed and breakfast or approved accommodations. Approved accommodations are private homes with attached suites for rent to tourists. They are generally cheaper than hotel rooms and offer much more local character. All approved accommodations must meet Jasper Chamber of Commerce standards. Most are located in historical buildings within a few blocks of the downtown core and feature kitchens, one or two bedrooms and well-appointed living rooms. Often the approved accommodation hosts will share secrets on the best restaurants and activities.

The majority of the larger hotels and motels share the north end of town, sandwiched between the Pyramid Lakes Road and the Athabasca River. Set in shady spruce groves below the bluffs that define the western boundary of town, they boast spectacular views of the mountains surrounding Maligne Lake to the east. This is where you will find the Jasper Inn, the Marmot Lodge, and the Pine Cone Inn. At these hotels you can experience nature, and still be close to the action. In fact, a five-minute walk will take you right to the heart of downtown. A few historical hotels are located right in the middle of downtown along Patricia Street. The Athabasca Hotel and Whistle Stop Inn have been around almost as long as the town itself, and are well known local landmarks, as well as hosts to two of the town’s more famous drinking establishments: the Atha-B saloon and Whistle Stop Pub. Both hotels are excellent for those intent on catching a little local culture, as they are right in the middle of the bar and club strip.

The undisputed star of the Jasper hotel scene is the luxurious Jasper Park Lodge, built in 1922. Located across the Athabasca River from Jasper and nestled among a chain of small lakes, it is famous for its winter ice-skating and elaborate network of hiking and cross-country ski trails. Although it is only a ten-minute drive from downtown Jasper, the deep silence of the forest makes you feel like you are thousands of miles from civilization.

You wont find many major chains in Jasper and its vicinity, and most lodgings are independently operated. Most every establishment boasts individual character and charm.

Jim Coates

    Getting there

Getting There:

By Air:

Jasper-Hinton Airport (YJA) (+1 780 865 4474/ http://www.airjasper.com) located about 60 minutes from the town of Jasper, can accommodate small commercial and charter planes. Peace Air (+1 800 563 3060/http://www.peaceair.net/) is probably your best bet if you want to charter a plane.

Many hotels in Jasper now provide shuttles to and from the airport; check with your hotel to see if this service is available.

Most visitors typically prefer to use Edmonton International Airport (YEG) (+1 780 890 8900/http://www.edmontonairports.com/), which is roughly 2.5 hours from Jasper and the neighboring park regions. The following providers offer service:

Air Canada (+1 800 247 8726/ http://www.aircanada.ca)

Air North (+1 800 764 0407 in the U.S./+1 800 661 0407 in Canada/ https://www.flyairnorth.com/)

Air Transat (+1 866 847 1112/http://www.airtransat.com/)

America West (+1 800 235 9292/ http://www.americawest.com)

Canadian North (+1 800 661 1505/http://www.canadiannorth.com/)

Central Mountain Air (+1 888 865 8585/http://www.flycma.com/)

Continental (+1 800 525 0280/ http://www.continental.com)

Jetsgo (+1 866 440 0441/http://www.jetsgo.net/en/)

MartinAir (+1 800 627 8462/http://www.martinairusa.com/)

MyTravel (+1 866 698 7285/http://www.mytravel.ca/)

Northwest (+1 800 225 2525/ http://www.nwa.com)

Northwestern Air Lease (+1 877 872 2216/http://www.nwal.ca/)

Skyservice (+1 800 701 9448/http://www.skyserviceairlines.com/)

United (+1 800 241 6522/http://www.ual.com)

WestJet (+10800 538 5696/http://www.westjet.com/)

Zoom (+1 866 359 9666/http://www.flyzoom.com/)

Taxi companies include:

From Jasper-Hinton Airport:

Mountain Express Taxi & Touring (+1 780 852 4694)

From Edmonton International Airport:

Barrel Taxi (+1 780 489 7777)

Prestige Cabs (+1 780 462 4444)

Prestige Limousines (+1 780 463 5000)

Yellow Cab (+1 780 462 3456)

Rental Car companies include:

Avis (+1 800 831 2847; http://www.avis.com)

Thrifty (+1 866 857 4545; http://www.thrifty.com)

Hertz (+1 800 654 3131; http://www.hertz.com)

National (+1 800 227 7368; http://www.nationalcar.com)

Limousine companies include:

Ultimate Limousine Ltd. (+1 800 205 5466; http://www.albertalimo.com)

By Train:

VIA Rail (+1 888 VIA RAIL; http://www.viarail.com)

Rocky Mountaineer Railtours (+1 800 665 RAIL; http://www.rockymountaineer.com) offers seasonal service (April-Oct; Dec-Jan).

Snowtrain to Jasper (http://www.snowtrainjasper.com)

By Bus:

Greyhound Canada Transport (+1 800 661 8747;http://www.greyhound.ca)

Brewster Transport Company (+1 780 852 3211; http://www.brewster.ca)

Laidlaw Transit Services (+1 913 345 1986; http://www.laidlawtransit.com)

By Motor home:

Motor home rental (+1 800 RV4 RENT; http://www.cruiseamerica.com) from Edmonton, Calgary and Vancouver.

Other Transportation:

Sundog Tour Co./Rocky Mountain Unlimited (+1 888 786 3641; http://www.sundogtours.com) provides luxury transportation and tour packages.

Maligne Lake Shuttle Service (+1 866 MALIGNE;

http://www.malignelake.com)

Getting Around:

By Bus:

Brewster Transport Company (+1 780 852 3211; http://www.brewster.ca)

Rental Car companies include:

Avis (+1 800 831 2847; http://www.avis.com)

Thrifty (+1 866 857 4545; http://www.thrifty.com)

Hertz (+1 800 654 3131; http://www.hertz.com)

National (+1 800 227 7368; http://www.nationalcar.com)

Bicycle rental companies include:

Source for Sports (+1 780 852 3654)

Vicious Cycle (+1 780 852 1111)

Freewheel Cycle (+1 780 852 3898)

On-line Sport & Tackle (+1 780 852 3630)

Other transportation services:

Alberta Transportation (+1 780 427 2731; http://www.tu.gov.ab.ca)

Jasper Treks & Travel (+1 888 437 2483; http://www.jaspertreksntravel.com)

   District guide

Jasper National Park forms the northernmost component of the Canadian Rocky Mountain Parks system, and is the largest, wildest and most forbidding of all the parks. With spectacularly jagged mountains, unusual geological formations and a history of adventure and conflict, it is the wild sister of its sibling, Banff. While Banff has been recognized as an international luxury destination for over a century, Jasper has been known for its harsh terrain, strange landforms and abundant wildlife.

The townsite of Jasper, in a valley carved by the Athabasca River, is located at the junction of the Icefield Parkway and Yellowhead Highway, and huddles against the eastern face of the Princess Lakes Bench and Pyramid Mountain. Only about 1,000 people call this town home all year long, but during the winter ski season and in the summer the population swells to 10 or 15 times its normal size, with visitors from around the world. Most of them come seeking the isolation and spectacular scenery that has made Jasper famous, as well as the exceptional wildlife viewing opportunities.

Skiing, hiking and climbing are popular activities year-round, due to the high altitude glaciers and wide diversity of terrain. In the summer, whitewater rafting, horseback riding and mountain biking are excellent ways to see the backcountry. If you are planning on coming to Jasper, don’t forget your camera, as the snow-capped mountains and unique quality of light in the area make for very impressive photographs.

Most Jasper businesses are located along Connaught Drive and Patricia Street, which run parallel to the railway tracks that stretch alongside the Athabasca River. Between the main shopping district and the mountain lie the homes of the locals, as well as the aquatic centre, museum and library. Bars and restaurants are scattered along Patricia Street and can also be found on Connaught Drive. The Jasper Jasper Park Information Centre is located right in the centre of town, where Miette Avenue meets Patricia Street. The Information Centre is the best place to find information about the hundreds of activities and attractions found in the park.

Many of the hotels can be found at the north end of town on Connaught Drive, as well as near the Pyramid Lakes Road. A unique feature of Jasper is the Approved Accommodations: private homes that have suites available for rent to tourists. They are sanctioned by the Chamber of Commerce and are usually cheaper than hotels. This can be a real lifesaver when all the other rooms in town are booked.

When visiting Jasper, it is important to know about the town’s permanent residents: the elk and bears. Excellent wildlife photography opportunities abound in and around town, and a few simple rules will ensure that both you and the animals have an enjoyable experience. When taking pictures, use a telephoto lens and keep at least 50 meters (150 feet) away. Never feed or attempt to get close to any wildlife, and make sure that you consult Parks Canada about proper wildlife safety precautions before heading off into the woods. Elk are often seen in town, wandering through backyards and even down the main streets of downtown. But remember that these animals are not tame, and that they may attack if provoked. You don’t have to panic if you see one; just keep a respectful distance and avoid disturbing them.

The town of Jasper is dwarfed by the vastness of the park stretching out on all sides and makes an excellent base for exploring the park’s many attractions. Major roads run east, west and south of the town, and a drive along any of the parkways or highways will open up boundless outdoor opportunities.

To the northeast of the Jasper townsite, the Athabasca River runs down the centre of a valley, and separates the town from the Maligne Lake Valley to the east, as well as Maligne Canyon and the Jasper Park Lodge. The trails around the lodge and Maligne Lake are excellent for hiking in the summer and skiing in the winter.

Following the Yellowhead Highway north from town will take you out of the park and through the town of Hinton and eventually to Edmonton. Some of the most unusual landscape in the park can be found along this stretch of highway. A half-hour drive to the north lies Jasper Lake and the surreal Jasper Sand Dunes, as well as the Miette Hotsprings. The shore of Jasper Lake offers some exceptional wildlife viewing opportunities, as bighorn sheep and mountain goats enjoy feeding and sunning themselves on the cliffs alongside the Yellowhead Highway. For a refreshing dip, stop by the Miette Hot Springs, located just off of the Yellowhead highway before Hinton. The 104-degree Fahrenheit water will soon chase the chill of the mountains away.

To the west of Jasper lie the Monashee Mountains, a rugged and isolated range. The mountains are home to Mike Wiegle Heli Skiing, considered one of the best heli-ski operations in the world. There are also whitewater rafting opportunities, and the chance to see Mount Robson, an imposing block of granite that is the highest mountain in the Canadian Rockies.

To the south of town, you will find the Whistlers Gondola, Jasper International Hostel and Marmot Basin Ski Area. Further south is the Icefields Parkway, one of the most spectacular drives in North America: a 300 kilometre stretch of highway winding toward Banff beneath soaring peaks and massive glaciers.

Halfway between Jasper and Banff is the Icefield Centre, where you will find a Parks Canada Information Centre and the Athabasca Glacier SnoCoach Tours.

Jim Coates

    Historical background

The town of Jasper lies in a narrow valley nestled beneath the jagged Rampart mountain range. As it is the only range removed from the flat grasslands of the Canadian Prairie, and one of the few that passes through the sheer ramparts of the Eastern Rockies, this valley has been inhabited for over 10,000 years.

The first people to settle here were Native Americans, who wandered into the valley at the end of the last Ice Age. Hunting bighorn sheep, deer and elk, they found that the sheltered mountain valleys had a slightly milder climate than the dry and windswept prairies. As they moved farther into the mountains, they discovered that the Jasper Valley was situated at the beginning of a number of mountain passes that allowed them to travel and settle through the heart of what is now British Columbia, to the west of the Rockies.

The Sarcee tribe became well established in the Jasper Valley, and for several thousand years was influential in controlling trade between the plains nations and the mountain tribes. With the arrival of Europeans in North America, however, came a smallpox epidemic that devastated the indigenous people, killing almost 50 percent of the population. In addition, displaced natives, particularly the Iroquois from eastern Canada, moved west ahead of the white settlers, and began to take over the Sarcee’s territory. The Iroquois had horses and guns acquired from white traders, and soon wrested control of the eastern Rockies from the existing native tribes.

In the late 18th and early 19th centuries, the North West Company and Hudson’s Bay Company began exploring the region in search of new fur trapping and trading areas. Around 1800, the first trading post in the area was established at Rocky Mountain House, 200 kilometres southeast of Jasper. Missionaries soon followed, setting up churches throughout the western prairies and eastern Rockies.

The first European known to have visited the present Jasper townsite was David Thompson, one of Canada’s most famous explorers. Thompson passed through in 1810 on an historic mapping expedition for the North West Company that would take him all the way to the Pacific. A post would be established near here in 1824, an offshoot of Rocky Mountain House, which, in 1817, had been dubbed Jasper House after the trader in charge at the time, one Jasper Hawes.

Jasper National Park was created in 1886, just after Banff National Park, some 290 kilometres to the south, had been recognised as Canada’s first. Visitors began to trickle in, but Jasper National Park never saw the flood of tourists that inundated Banff, which saw the railroad come through in 1883, two decades before it reached Jasper. Also, Jasper had slightly different attractions than Banff, and instead of aristocrats, daredevil climbers and skiers, it drew big game hunters, glacier trekkers and naturalists.

In 1911, the Pocahontas coal mine, near the present-day townsite of Jasper, went into production. A small community of miners and their families sprung up and flourished briefly before the mine was closed in 1921 due to low coal prices.

In 1913, a rail line was finally constructed from Edmonton to the Jasper townsite. The construction superintendent, one Lt. Col. S. Maynard Rogers, built the town’s first substantial building the same year&mdashnow home to the Jasper Information Centre. The community thrived on railway traffic for a time, but most of the tracks were torn up and shipped to Europe as part of the war effort in 1917. The railway was eventually rebuilt, but was never a huge commercial success.

During the Second World War, Patricia Lake, a small lake in the mountains above Jasper, became the site for a top-secret research project of the British Navy. An “unsinkable” destroyer made of ice was constructed in the winter of 1943. The project foundered, and the ship was scuttled in the spring. Even today, however, scuba divers brave the icy water in the summer to swim amongst the wreckage of one of the strangest warships in history.

The city of Edmonton, which is only a four hour drive from Jasper, became a major oil centre in the 1970s and Jasper began to see more local tourist traffic as weekend travellers came to ski and hike in the mountains and swim in the Miette Hotsprings.

Marmot Basin Ski Area was built in 1966, and soon became popular for its huge, uncrowded alpine bowls and short lift lines. International travellers began to choose Jasper over Banff because of its less formal atmosphere and easily accessible wilderness. While Banff may appear more spectacular, with dark, foreboding forests and sheer mountainsides, Jasper offers open parkland, airy pine forests, and huge but accessible mountains.

Today Jasper is an internationally renowned tourist destination, which still retains its rough and ready small-town character. More remote than Banff and less commercial, it is a treasure that is often overlooked.

Jim Coates

    Entertainment

Most people who live in Jasper do so in order to take advantage of the incredible scenery and abundant outdoor recreational opportunities. As a result, everybody tries to spend as much time as possible outside, which makes for a do-it-yourself approach to entertainment. Besides the local cinema, there are very few venues where you sit and are entertained by somebody else. Be prepared for a little bit of adventure in whatever you choose to do, and enjoy your sojourn to its fullest.

Outdoor activities abound in and around Jasper. In the summer you can hike the trails around town, or rent a mountain bike to explore some of the longer trails. If you want to get a little farther from civilisation, horse pack trips can take you to chalets dozens of kilometres back into the mountains. In the winter you can downhill ski or snowboard at the Marmot Basin Ski Area, or strap on a pair of cross country skis and go gliding through the forested trails around Pyramid Lake.

For a bird’s eye view of the town and most of the park, take the Jasper Tramway to the top of Whistlers Mountain. Once you reach the summit, you can wander around and take in the spectacular mountain vista, or partake in a gourmet dinner at Treeline Restaurant. The Treeline claims to be one of the highest altitude restaurants in Canada, and has a menu to match.

Shopping is one area where Jasper reigns supreme. Whether you are looking for an original mountainscape watercolour, elk antler chandelier or new set of downhill skis, chances are you will find it somewhere in downtown Jasper. There are about a hundred small shops squeezed into a tiny area between Patricia Street and Connaught Drive. Most of the touristier souvenir shops and art galleries are found on Connaught Drive, while the ski, bike and sunglass boutiques are on Patricia Street.

A thriving nightlife exists in Jasper during the summer and from December to April, while the ski hill is in operation. Finding a lively bar or nightclub is quite easy. Simply walk along Patricia Street and listen for music blaring out of the open club doors. Select the style of music that most appeals to you and wander on in.

The clear mountain air makes for great photographs, but it can also build up a powerful hunger. As anyone who spends much time in the mountains knows, even the most mundane meal tastes incredible after a day in the hills, and a gourmet dinner can be almost overpowering. Fortunately, there is a wide selection of restaurants lining Jasper’s avenues, serving food from all over the world. A quick jaunt down Patricia Street reveals dozens of restaurants and lounges, although fine dining can also be found elsewhere in the town.

If you don’t want to venture out of doors but still want to get a little exercise, the Jasper Aquatic Center has a full-sized pool, sauna and a hot tub for relaxing stiff muscles. If the hot tub is not quite warm enough for you, then a visit to the Miette Hotsprings might be in order. These natural springs, which are located a 40-minute drive northeast of Jasper, claim to be the hottest in the Canadian Rocky Mountains, with temperatures reaching 110 degrees Farenheit.

If you want to get a sense the area’s history and inhabitants before you head out, the Jasper-Yellowhead Museum has an excellent collection of artifacts and displays detailing history of the valley since the last Ice Age. For a close look at some of the wild in habitants of the park, drop by The Den, a natural museum complete with stuffed representatives of most of the park’s large mammals. This is a great way to see what a grizzly bear looks like up close without ending up as its supper.

Wildlife viewing is popular in the summer and winter in many parts of the park. Along the Yellowhead Highway to the east of Jasper, there is a set of limestone cliffs that almost always has a herd of bighorn sheep grazing upon it. Elk can be seen almost everywhere in the park, with one herd living around, and frequently inside the town itself. Other wildlife, such as moose, bears, wolves and mountain goats are less frequently seen, but will still sometimes venture within camera range. As close encounters between people and wildlife almost never end favourably for either party, it is best to keep your distance and use a telephoto lens on your camera.

Whatever you choose to do while visiting Jasper, you can be assured that your stay will be eventful and memorable. Whether you decide to go climb a mountain, eat until you burst, shop until you drop, or just lounge around in front of a roaring fireplace, you stay is sure to be memorable.

Jim Coates

   Fun Facts

Jasper

State/Province: Alberta

Country: Canada

Jasper by the Numbers:

Population: 2167

Elevation: 3480 feet

Average Annual Rainfall: 13.1 inches

Average Jan. Temperature: 12 degrees F

Average July Temperature: 59 degrees F

Quick Facts:

Major Industries: tourism

Major Tourist Destinations: Jasper National Park

Ethnic Mix: 91.74% Caucasian, 4.38% African American, 3.23% Hispanic, 0.74% Asian

Time Zone: GMT-5

Country Dialing Code: 1

Area Code: 780

Did You Know?

Jasper National Park is Canada’s largest national park, consisting of 10,878 square km of breathtaking beauty in the Rocky Mountains.

Orientation:

Located in the Rocky Mountains in Alberta Canada, Jasper is southwest of Edmonton and near British Columbia. From the United States, Jasper is north of Washington, Idaho and Montana.

City information

Edmonton is a playland in a prairie landscape. The heart of the city is the lush river valley, which breathes life into Canada’s “Festival City.” There is always something to celebrate, history is never forgotten, and visitors are always welcome.

    Restaraunts / Bars

There are some 2,000 eating establishments in Edmonton, and they represent a wide variety of cuisine. Take a walk down Bourbon Street, West Edmonton Mall’s restaurant strip, and you will get an idea of how the city’s culturally diverse population is manifested in its dining options. Here’s a look at some of the cuisine that dominates the scene.

Canadian/North American Edmontonians love their meat - particularly their beef. After all, this is cattle country. The word “steak” or “steakhouse” is part of many a restaurant name. Alberta prime rib - a choice cut from the seven ribs just before the loin - is served at quality steakhouses like Von’s and Teddy’s. In addition to a variety of “beefy” steaks, burgers and ribs, other popular meat items include pork tenderloin, a variety of chicken dishes, and bison steak, all from locally raised animals.

The seafood served in the city’s restaurants is imported from both of Canada’s coasts. Thus, you can try Pacific salmon in one restaurant, Atlantic salmon in another. Typical offerings also include lobster tails, shrimp, scallops, mussels and a variety of other fish. Restaurants like Turtle Creek and Sweetwater offer delectable seafood choices at not-too-outrageous prices. A bit more on the upmarket side is Packrat Louie.

Steakhouses, seafood restaurants and other establishments that serve what is typically known as “Western” or “Canadian” food are found virtually everywhere in the city, with the biggest clusters in the west end (not far from West Edmonton Mall), in the downtown core, and on the south side along Calgary Trail. They range from counter-style like Debaji’s and Urban Fare, to casual sit-down places like Old Strathcona Cheesecake Restaurant, to more elegant establishments like La Ronde and Chance, where you can foray into what has been dubbed “Canadian Regional” or “Canadian Prairie” cuisine.

Chinese/Cantonese/Szechwan Chinatown, of course, offers the largest selection of these restaurants, but no matter where you are in the city, you are likely to find several more.

The majority of Chinese immigrants here in the West came from the region of Canton, in Kwangtung Province. The many Cantonese restaurants in Edmonton specialize in seafood dishes, tropical produce and rich sauces. Szechwan restaurants, like Szechuen Cuisine, are also abundant in Edmonton, serve dishes with more familiar ingredients, which are flavored with red peppers, ginger, garlic, and Szechwan pepper - grown in the prosperous province, Szechwan, in western China.

Italian Fettuccine Alfredo, Veal Parmigiana, risotto, focaccia, bruschetta, tiramisu. They taste as wonderful as they sound. Italian restaurants in Edmonton range from lively pasta kitchens like Chianti, to fancy, first rate establishments like Sorrentino’s - Little Italy, all serving food to satisfy your hunger and warm your soul. And yes, there is pizza. You can have thin crust, thick crust, or stuffed (with cheese) crust, with anything and everything on it. Il Forno’s pizza comes right out of it’s signature brick oven.

Greek Edmonton’s Greek restaurants are local favorites. Nothing beats the combination of delightful food and Mediterranean ambience that is offered in establishments like Symposium and Syrtaki. While you’re enjoying your souvlaki, spanokopita, hummus, or baklava, you might even have the opportunity to catch a little belly dancing at a few of these establishments on Friday and Saturday nights.

French Many of Edmonton’s classiest (and most expensive) restaurants, like the unique La Boheme, fall into this category, offering classic French cuisine like chateaubriand, filet mignon, coquille St. Jacques and bouillabaisse, as well as veal and lamb dishes. A few of the French restaurants here, like The Creperie, specialize in crepes, thin pancakes with delightful fillings. Be sure to follow your main course crepe with a decadent desert crepe.

Whatever type of cuisine you want to try, it’s likely that Edmonton has it. Japanese, East Indian, Vietnamese, Korean, Thai, Lebanese - the list goes on. And if you’re vegetarian, don’t be alarmed by the preponderance of meat items on every menu. There are some vegetarian (or almost-vegetarian) restaurants in the city, like the unique Oriental Veggie House and the quaint Max’s Light Cuisine. Most others offer at least a few vegetarian options. If you can’t find anything on the menu, chances are the chef will whip up something meatless just for you.

The Pub Scene There is no shortage of pubs in Edmonton, and new ones seem to pop up all the time, and all over the place. Whyte Avenue and downtown have the largest concentration. Pubs are popular with the locals, and on Friday and Saturday nights the lines can be long; owners are diligent about not exceeding maximum capacities. While you enjoy whatever’s on tap, indulge in finger food. The most popular item is definitely chicken wings, mild, medium or screaming hot.

If you are planning to unwind in more private surroundings, it might help to know that the liquor stores in the province of Alberta are privately owned, so they don’t keep government hours. They are open seven days a week and some until as late as 2 A.M. on weekends.

Cynthia Dusseault

    Recommended tours

If you’ve got a car, you’ll quickly discover that it’s fast and easy to get from one place to another in Edmonton. But really getting to know the city takes more than watching it whiz by on the other side of a pane of glass. Here are some ideas for getting to know the places and the prairie culture that are Edmonton.

On Foot

You really have no choice but to walk in Fort Edmonton Park, Canada’s largest historical park, where you will step back in time to the days of fur-trading, and with the help of costumed interpreters, gain some insight into the beginnings of the city.

The beautiful grounds of the Legislature Building are definitely worth a stroll. In the summer, you can cool your feet in the fountains; in the winter, you can skate on the small outdoor rink that’s tucked into the riverbank just below.

Whyte Avenue is a great place to walk, window shop (or really shop), and do some people watching. If you need a break, stop for a latte at one of the many coffeehouses. An abandoned railway line runs parallel to Whyte Avenue, and from May through September, you can hop on board the Old Strathcona Street Car, which will take you for a scenic ride across the river and back. Head west on Whyte, and you will hit the University of Alberta, where you can stroll through the pretty campus, visit the Edwardian-style Rutherford House, home of Alberta’s first premier, and check out Hub Mall, a unique student residence and shopping complex.

Parallel to Whyte Avenue and the railway line, along the top river valley, is Saskatchewan Drive, where you can stroll, take photos from the many lookout points, and enjoy a peaceful moment resting on a bench and taking in the downtown skyline. There are several paths that lead down from here to the river valley trails.

On a Bike

More than 100 kilometres (62 miles) of paved trails wind through the river valley, and although any non-motorized form of locomotion is allowed, the trails really are a cyclist’s dream. In addition, there are about 100 kilometres of signed, on-street cycle routes, and over 75 kilometres of roadside (wide sidewalk) multi-use trails. The City of Edmonton publishes a comprehensive cycle map that includes the laws pertaining to cyclists, tips for riding in traffic, and a wealth of other useful information.

If you’re going to be in Edmonton for any length of time, you might want to consider bringing your bike, or you can rent some wheels from one of the handful or so of bike rental companies in the city. Some even offer free drop-off and pick-up service.

Seeing Edmonton on a bike is fun, efficient, and safe. You can do a nice river valley circuit that takes you through both historic and new neighbourhoods, and which really gives you a feel for the amazing park system that snakes along the river. Starting on the trails in the centre of the city, head east to Rundle Park, on the outskirts of the city. Stay on either the north or south side of the river on the way there; the other side on the way back. Depending on your speed, it could take you a couple of hours to half a day, but make a full day of it if you can. Pack a picnic lunch and take the time to stop and enjoy the sights (and nature) along the way.

Guided Tours

There are a few tour bus operators in the city, and some of them will custom design city tours for you, your family, or your company. You can take a half-day or full-day tour to historic and cultural sites in the city and surrounding area. You can go on a pub/club crawl. You can take a guided canoe trip down the river. Or, you can go on a naturalist-guided hiking tour through the river valley.

Out of Town Must-See Sights

Most first-time visitors to Edmonton are surprised by the vastness and flatness of the prairie that surrounds it. It is said that people who live in the prairie, though, are never happy anywhere else. They always long for those wide open spaces, which are probably never as pretty as they are in July when the golden yellow, fully-blooming canola fields dot the landscape.

Several excellent attractions are only short distances from the city. To the east, is Elk Island National Park, where you can see free-roaming herds of wood bison. Nearby is the Ukrainian Cultural Heritage Village, which depicts the lifestyle of Ukrainian settlers during the early 1900’s. Just southwest of Edmonton, near the city of Devon, is the Devonian Botanic Garden, which is a plant and flower lover’s paradise.

A bit further afield are the spectacular “badlands,” near the town of Drumheller, where dinosaurs used to roam millions of years ago. This area is one of the richest sources of fossil deposits in the world.

Then there are the Rockies, Alberta’s majestic mountains. You can drive from Edmonton or take a full-day or multi-day tour to the Jasper and Banff National Parks, where you will likely catch glimpses of mountain goats, elk, bear, and bighorn sheep, and where geographical formations like the Columbia Icefields’ glacier will leave you with unforgettable memories.

    Where to stay

Whether you are in Edmonton for business or pleasure, or just stopping over - perhaps on your way north to Alaska, or west to the Rocky Mountains - you will have no difficulty finding suitable accommodations.

Since Edmonton’s biggest tourist attraction is the West Edmonton Mall, many visitors want to be as close to it as possible. Unfortunately, attraction-wise, this part of the city doesn’t have much else to offer, nor is it near the scenic river valley. So, keep in mind that many of the larger hotels throughout the city offer free courtesy shuttles to the mall (and to the airport, which is about 29 kilometers or 18 miles south of city). Also, public transit offers express bus service to the mall, and getting there by car from anywhere in this small city is only a matter of minutes.

The West End

If you really want to spend all of your time at West Edmonton Mall, you might want to try one of the 100-plus theme rooms in the 355-room, 12-story, Fantasyland Hotel, located right in the mall. For more modest budgets, there’s the recently opened, 88-room, West Edmonton Mall Inn, just across the street on the north side of the mall.

A number of places to stay are clustered within about a five-block radius of the intersection of Stony Plain Road and 178 Street, an easy walk or a short drive from the mall, and close to the west end’s abundance of eateries. If you are looking for executive-style comfort at moderate prices, try the Holiday Inn Express Hotel & Suites. For clean, comfortable rooms or suites in hotels with excellent amenities, there are the Royal Inn West Edmonton, Best Western Westwood Inn, West Harvest Inn, and West Edmonton Motor Inn. Several popular chain hotels, like the Comfort Inn Edmonton and the Sandman can be found here as well.

The Mayfield Inn & Suites, a bit northeast of this area, is a 327-room hotel complex that offers a host of amenities. It is known for its dinner theatre, which features celebrities from around the globe.

Downtown The grande dame of Edmonton hotels is the chateau-style Canadian Pacific Hotel MacDonald, with a luxurious decor, impressive river-valley views, landscaped gardens and impeccable service. Also perched above the river valley is the architecturally interesting Crown Plaza Chateau Lacombe, a round, high-rise hotel.

The Delta Edmonton Centre Suite Hotel is located in the Eaton Centre shopping mall, so you can literally shop till you drop. And, like many of the other upscale, in-the-heart-of-downtown hotels, such as the Westin Edmonton and the Sheraton Grande Edmonton, it is part of the pedway system that links many downtown attractions.

The more intimate, 34-room Union Bank Inn, on Jasper Avenue, offers individually furnished rooms with gas fireplaces and goose down bedding. Several well-known chain hotels, like the Days Inn Downtown Edmonton, the Econo Lodge Downtown, and the Howard Johnson Plaza Hotel, are located a block or two off Jasper Avenue. So, too, are some one-of-a-kind hotels like the Alberta Place Suite Hotel and the Edmonton House Suite Hotel, which offer daily, weekly and monthly rates.

Old Strathcona This lively part of the city has only offers a few accommodations, but they are interesting ones. At the upper end of the scale is the charming, European-style Varscona Hotel, located right on Whyte Avenue. At the lower end of the scale, also on Whyte, are the Strathcona and Commercial hotels, which are Old Strathcona landmarks. They offer simple, small-town-hotel-type rooms (some with sinks only) with no extras, but you will be where the action is. If you want something that falls between these two options, at the university, within easy walking distance of Old Strathcona, you will, find the Campus Tower Suite Hotel, which offers practical, apartment-style suites at hotel prices. If you want to try something really different, there’s the Old Strathcona Hostel, run by Hostelling International. There are no age restrictions and it is considered an outstanding urban hostel.

Calgary Trail There is a wide range of accommodations in the south part of the city, along Calgary Trail, which actually consists of two one-way streets - one northbound, the other southbound. The upper-end choices include the Coast Terrace Inn, the Delta Edmonton South Hotel & Conference Centre, and the Greenwood Inn. In the moderate range, you have such chain hotels as the Econo Lodge, the Ramada Inn, and the Super 8 . In the real economy class are the “trucker” motels, like the Trailway and the Derrick, which cater to visitors just passing through.

Airport The Edmonton International Airport is technically not in Edmonton at all. It is across the highway from the industrial town of Nisku, and the city of Leduc; both places offer numerous hotels, inns and motels, all about three to seven minutes from the airport. From a tourist perspective there isn’t much in the area, but it’s a fine place to get a good night’s sleep between flights.

Bed & Breakfasts If you prefer the bed and breakfast route, there are just over a dozen scattered around the city, and for the most part, they are relatively modern, private homes. Two more-hotel-style bed and breakfasts in historic buildings, are La Boheme, in the colourful northern neigbourhood of Highlands, and the Glenora Bed and Breakfast Inn, close to the Provincial Museum of Alberta in the quaint neighborhood of Old Glenora.

Cynthia Dusseault

   Getting there

Getting There:

By Air:

Edmonton International Airport (+1 780 890 8900/ http://www.edmontonairports.com ) is located 18 miles (29 km) from the center of the city and provides direct service and connections to several destinations from the following airlines:

Air Canada ( +1 888 247 2262/ http://www.aircanada.ca )

Air North, Yukon’s Airline ( +1 800 661 0407/ http://www.flyairnorth.com )

Air Transat ( +1 877 872 6728/ http://www.airtransat.com )

America West ( +1 800 363 2597/ http://www.americawest.com )

Canadian North ( +1 800 661 1505/ http://www.canadiannorth.com )

Central Mountain Air ( +1 888 865 8585/ http://www.flycma.com )

Continental ( +1 800 231 0856/ http://www.continental.com )

First Air ( +1 800 267 1247/ http://www.firstair.ca )

Horizon Air ( +1 800 547 9308/ http://www.horizonair.com )

Jetsgo ( +1 866 440 0441/ http://www.jetsgo.net )

Northwest ( +1 800 225 2525/ http://www.nwa.com )

Peace Air ( +1 800 563 3060/ http://www.peaceair.com )

Skyservice ( +1 800 701 9448/ http://www.skyserviceairlines.com )

United ( +1 800 241 6522/ http://www.ual.com)

WestJet ( +1 800 538 5696/ http://www.westjet.com )

Sky Shuttle ( +1 888 438 2342/ http://www.edmontonskyshuttle.com) offers transportation to and from the Edmonton International Airport every 20 minutes on weekdays from 6a-9p.

The following cab companies service Edmonton International Airport:

Barrel Taxi ( +1 780 489 7777/ http://www.barreltaxi.com )

Prestige Cabs ( +1 780 462 4444/ http://www.edmontonyellowcab.com )

Yellow Cab ( +1 780 462 3456/ http://www.edmontonyellowcab.com )

Rental Car companies include:

Aviscar Inc. ( +1 800 331 1212/ http://www.avis.com )

Budget ( +1 800 661 7027/ http://www.budget.com )

Hertz ( +1 800 263 0600/ http://www.hertz.com )

National ( +1 800 227 7368/ http://www.nationalcar.com )

Thrifty ( +1 800 847 4389/ http://www.thrifty.com )

By Train:

VIA Rail ( +1 800 561 8630/ http://www.viarail.ca ) operates service

across Canada with a stop in Edmonton.

By Bus:

Greyhound Canada ( http://www.greyhound.ca ) accesses Edmonton from anywhere in North America. The downtown bus station ( +1 780 420 2400 ), located at 10324-103rd Street, is open M-F 5:30a-12:30a, Sa 5:30a-midnight and Su 10a-6p.

By Car:

Edmonton is on the Trans-Continental Yellowhead Highway and Highway 2 is the main highway from the United States to Edmonton.

Getting Around:

Edmonton Transit ( +1 780 496 1611/ http://www.edmonton.ca ) provides public transportation via bus, trolley and light rail throughout the city.

  District guide

In 1795, the Hudson’s Bay Company established Fort Edmonton, a trading post where the Cree and the Blackfoot brought their much-coveted furs for barter. Over the course of some 200 years, Edmonton has evolved from this desolate outpost into a proud provincial capital. Thanks to the Klondike Gold Rush in the late 1800s, the building of the Alaska Highway in the 1940s, and the discovery, also in the 1940s, of phenomenal amounts of crude oil within a 40-kilometer (25-mile) radius of the city, it has earned a status as a transportation hub, supply center and industrial capital. But, beneath this business facade, there is much more to this small city, dubbed the “Gateway to the North.”

The city’s playground The North Saskatchewan River snakes its way through Edmonton, from southwest to northeast, cutting the city in half. The river valley parkland - the largest stretch of urban parkland in North America - is a playground for all seasons. More than 100 kilometers (62 miles) of multi-use trails, which accommodate walking, jogging, in-line skating, cycling, and cross-country skiing wind through a green corridor of park after park. Nestled in the valley along with some quaint residential neighborhoods are golf courses, campgrounds, skating ponds, tobogganing hills, and downhill ski areas.

Downtown Edmonton sits high on the north bank of the river, bordered on the west by the domed, granite and sandstone Legislative Building, and on the east by the castle-like Hotel MacDonald. The main downtown drag - a popular “cruising” route with young people - is Jasper Avenue, also known as 101 Avenue. The block-long, cobblestone, pedestrian strip, Rice Howard Way, with its pubs and trendy cafes, is a favorite hangout of the office crowd and weekend fun seekers. Churchill Square, a park in the core of downtown, plays host to many of the city’s festivals, and is bordered by some of Edmonton’s most important buildings: the glass pyramid-topped City Hall, the recently-renovated main branch of the Edmonton Public Library, and the The Francis Winspear Centre for Music, and the Edmonton Art Gallery.

Enclosed pedestrian walkways called “pedways,” both underground and overhead, connect most of the downtown buildings. They make getting around during Edmonton’s “eight months of winter,” as the locals ruefully joke, a bit more bearable. Edmonton Tourism provides pedway maps.

Chinatown is a few blocks east of downtown. Lining 97th Street, and on its adjacent avenues, are inexpensive Chinese restaurants, Chinese grocery stores, where tofu is sold in tubs at a fraction of the cost of the pre-packaged stuff, Chinese gift shops and clothing stores, and “pharmacies” staffed by Chinese herbalists who can offer something for any ailment.

Memories of a prarie town Across the river from downtown is Old Strathcona, a neighborhood with many turn-of-the-19th-century buildings and homes. Each Saturday, Edmontonians flock to the popular Farmer’s Market held in the old bus barns. Several of the storefronts along Whyte Avenue have been restored and evoke the feel of a small prairie town. One-of-a-kind shops, cafes, and coffeehouses make this part of the city a popular hangout for young and old. A recent profusion of pubs has caused some concern among Old Strathcona residents about the late-night rowdiness.

At the west end of Whyte Avenue lies the University of Alberta, one of Canada’s most respected universities, and one of the largest research institutions in the country. More than 30,000 students in 15 faculties study in a tasteful mix of historic and modern buildings, many of which overlook the river.

The West End, as Edmontonians refer to it, is almost a city within a city. Residential neighborhoods, mega grocery and hardware stores, an abundance of hotels and restaurants, and the presence of every kind of service imaginable make this one of the most congested areas in the city. The West End’s landmark, West Edmonton Mall, is reputed to be the largest shopping mall in the world, with 800+ shops, services, and attractions.

Edmonton’s most fashionable neighbourhoods line the banks of the North Saskatchewan. They are, for the most part, residential, with the most spectacular homes facing the river, visible only from a boat or canoe.

Easy goings The grid design and the numbering system of Edmonton’s streets and avenues make getting around in the older parts of the city easy. Streets run north to south, starting with zero in the east. Avenues run east to west, starting with zero in the south. In some of the newer residential neighborhoods, a map is essential, as the boulevards, lanes, greens and crescents are named. There are a few remaining traffic circles, and knowing the rules that govern them is a must. Get a friendly Edmontonian to explain, or give the local police or Alberta Automobile Association a call. Apart from those cautions, driving around this city of just over 600,000 people is relatively easy. Although native Edmontonians complain about “rush hour,” newer residents and visitors hardly notice the few extra minutes it adds to travel time. Edmonton Transit System (ETS) buses cover the whole of the city, and an efficient telephone service called BusLink helps riders plan the best route to wherever they are going. The LRT, ETS’s Light Rail Transit, runs partly underground and partly above. It services the downtown core along Jasper Avenue, crosses the river to the university in the south, and runs north about 20 blocks to Northlands Park, the largest exhibition facility in Western Canada. A costly but long overdue LRT expansion is in the planning stages.

New buildings are always under construction; new neighborhoods are continually being tacked on to the outskirts. Edmonton has the feel of a young, vibrant, yet not-too-cosmopolitan city, and its beauty and simplicity often surprise visitors.

   Historical background

Boomtown. Perhaps no other term suits Edmonton so well. Although no stranger to hardship, over the course of 200-some years, the city has ridden high on the crest of several economic waves.

A community within walls: an unassuming name In 1795, the Hudson’s Bay Company built a walled fort on the banks of the North Saskatchewan River. The company perceived the need for, and the value of, a trading post in the rugged prairie of central Alberta, a territory until then mainly inhabited by the Cree. The 20-foot-high walls offered protection from the conflicts that erupted between the Cree and their rivals, the Blackfoot, when they came to trade at the fort. In exchange for rich pelts of otter, muskrat, beaver, mink and fox, these native Canadians obtained European-manufactured goods such as metal cooking utensils, guns, and gunpowder, that would alter their lives dramatically.

Stories abound about how Fort Edmonton acquired its name. It was most likely named in honor of Sir James Winter Lake, the deputy governor of the Hudson’s Bay Company at the time. Lake hailed from Edmonton, in Middlesex, England. One can speculate that the original Edmonton was at one time Edmond’s Town - named, in the British tradition, after a townsman, in this case named Edmond.

Beyond the boundaries Life at the fort followed a routine of trading, dispatching brigades to remote outposts, planting food and grain crops in the spring, harvesting them in the fall, and hunting and fishing to obtain meat for the fort’s inhabitants. Change came in the 1840s, with the arrival of Methodist and Catholic missionaries, who competed with each other in their quests to “tame” the natives and provide religious services to the Hudson’s Bay Company staff. The Methodists were the first to relinquish the safety of the fort. They claimed land outside its walls, and in 1873 completed the building of a church and a manse. These were the humble beginnings of the city of today.

The names of these early missionaries adorn the city’s landmarks, buildings, parks and roads. For example, Rundle Park is named after the Methodist Robert Rundle. You can also find the names of Hudson’s Bay Company employees and the early entrepreneurs who lived outside the fort. They followed the missionaries’ example, arriving from distant countries to claim land and set up businesses. For example, John Walter Museum honors the Scotsman who established Edmonton’s first ferry. Rossdale, one of Edmonton’s river valley neighborhoods, is named for Donald Ross, another Scotsman, who founded Edmonton’s first hotel.

The 1870s and 80s were decades of intense social and economic development for this young community, which seemed suddenly ripe for development. The first newspaper was established, schools were built, businesses like butcher shops and livery stables opened, and commercial agriculture became a profitable industry. It seemed that things could only get better, and they did.

Klondike fever News about the discovery of gold in the Klondike, an area near Dawson City in the Yukon, reached Edmonton in 1897. Prospectors heading north stopped in Edmonton for supplies, which meant prosperity for many local merchants. It was a short-lived boom, however, lasting only a couple of years. Some prospectors didn’t even make it as far as the goldfields, and those who did quickly realized that the backbreaking process of panning wasn’t going to make them rich. Their misfortune was an added bonus for Edmonton, because many individuals who had planned on passing through the city decided to stay, boosting Edmonton’s population six-fold.

The railway arrived in 1902, establishing Edmonton as a major point on the transcontinental travel and trade route. It was incorporated as a city in 1904, and designated the provincial capital in 1906. Edmonton enjoyed a period of economic, cultural, social growth and prosperity.

From war to war World War I led to one of the bleakest periods in Edmonton’s history. The city joined the war effort wholeheartedly, sending both men and supplies. In return, its boomtown atmosphere vanished as construction came to a halt, immigration tapered off and unemployment skyrocketed.

In the 1930s, still struggling to get back on its feet, Edmonton was hit by a wheat market depression that led to even more economic chaos, and more unemployment. The city witnessed the unfortunate birth of a shantytown within the city limits, and the opening of the city’s first “porridge kitchen.”

Then, in 1939, the news of another war came, but this one had a positive effect on Edmonton’s economic development. The airport underwent massive construction as the city became involved in the aircraft industry and in airfreight. To facilitate the movement of supplies north, construction of the Alaska Highway began. The city’s dark times were over.

Black gold Edmonton’s biggest boom began in 1947 with a 90-foot gusher of black crude oil in the suburb of Leduc, just southwest of the city. The pipeline and petrochemical industries were born, and all aspects of Edmonton’s economy benefited. In the 25 years following the discovery of oil, the city’s population quadrupled, and the accompanying social and cultural boom saw the construction of shopping centers, galleries, theatres and concert halls.

Architecturally, Edmonton is a young city. In fact, there are few buildings to marvel at. Since the early 1900s, styles have largely been imported from US cities and from the larger Canadian cities of Montreal and Toronto. Thus, the Legislative Building resembles many state capitols, and the Hotel MacDonald resembles other Canadian “chateaus.” In many old neighborhoods, the simple, stuccoed, wartime houses still stand. Newer buildings, like West Edmonton Mall, the downtown Grant MacEwan College, and the newly built City Hall have distinctly modern, airy styles. Perhaps, with Edmonton’s solid economy not needing another boom just yet, an architectural boom is on the horizon.

Cynthia Dusseault

   Entertainment

Edmonton’s entertainment scene is a reflection of the city’s diverse population and the diverse interests of its citizens. While it plays host to big-name entertainers from around the world, the city also showcases and takes pride in the people, the history, and the spirit that are uniquely its own.

Festivals

It’s always festival season in Edmonton, but from May through August, “Canada’s Festival City” really comes alive. Music, visual art, theatre, or just plain fun- there is definitely something for everyone.

Early in July, the Jazz City International Music Festival features jazz and blues artists at various indoor and outdoor venues throughout the city. And, the International Street Performers Festival fills the downtown streets with the antics of clowns, jugglers, magicians, and other performers.

The Gold Rush of the 1890’s is revived every July during Klondike Days. Kicked off with a parade, and followed by ten days of events that include pancake breakfasts, bathtub races, and a sourdough raft race, this festival makes every corner of the city come alive. Few can resist a night at the midway, shrieking on the rides.

Thousands flock to Hawrelak Park for the Heritage Festival, a delightful celebration of ethnic diversity. The 50 pavilions showcase the costume, music, dance, food, and art of a specific culture.

Edmonton’s Folk Music Festival, held every August at Gallagher Park, is recognized as one of the top folk festivals in North America. It has featured well-known performers like Jackson Browne and Joan Baez, as well as Canada’s own Bruce Cockburn and Blue Rodeo. When the sun goes down, the lights of downtown start to glow, and the music strikes a chord somewhere within; then you’ll know you’re having “a folk festival moment.”

The end of summer is marked by the Fringe Theatre Festival, a lively event that takes place in Old Strathcona and features all types of “alternative” performances in both indoor and outdoor venues. Music

The acoustically-perfect The Francis Winspear Centre for Music is the home of the Edmonton Symphony Orchestra, which maintains a busy schedule, satisfying a variety of musical tastes through a wide range of programs such as the Masters Series, the Lighter Classics, and Symphony for Kids. The Winspear is also host to internationally renowned singers and musicians. Edmonton Opera performances take place at the Jubilee Auditorium, located on the University of Alberta campus. For more information go to www.edmontonopera.com. The Skyreach Centre and Commonwealth Stadium can accommodate larger audiences, and feature popular rock and pop artists.

Theatre

Edmonton’s premiere live theatre facility is the Citadel Theatre, where top actors from across the country perform in a variety of classical and modern plays. There are also several smaller, more intimate theatres, where you can see talented local actors perform.

Dinner theatres are “in,” at least here in Edmonton. They present the whole gamut of live theatre genres from serious drama to musical comedies.

In every corner of the city you can find a “first-run” Cineplex Odeon or Famous Players theatre, and West Edmonton Mall’s super-deluxe Famous Players Silver City Theatres & Imax 3D Theatre complex, complete with fire-breathing dragon, is worth a visit. Two of Edmonton’s oldest cinemas, the Princess and the Garneau, both located in Old Strathcona, play a combination of alternative, first-run, and repertory films.

Sports

Thanks to Wayne Gretzky, everyone who knows anything about hockey has heard of the Edmonton Oilers, a team that draws a big local crowd during its home games at the Skyreach Centre, which is also home to the Edmonton Drillers soccer team. Commonwealth Stadium is the home of the Edmonton Eskimos, the city’s professional football team, and Telus Field is the home of the Edmonton Trappers baseball team. There are seldom sell-out crowds at any of these games, which is good news for visitors who want to see these teams in action.

Museums & Galleries

The Provincial Museum of Alberta hosts world-class exhibits. Past exhibits include “Anno Domini,” a pictorial exhibit of Jesus through the centuries, and “Syria: Land of Civilizations.” One of the museum’s permanent exhibits, the “Syncrude Gallery of Aboriginal Peoples,” offers a rare insight into the history and culture of America’s native peoples.

The Edmonton Space & Science Centre, which already houses an Imax Theatre, a star theatre, an observatory, and a discovery gallery for children, is currently undergoing a $14 million expansion that will include three new exhibit galleries, the themes being the environment, forensics, and health.

A museum with a difference is the Muttart Conservatory, located in the river valley. Its impressive glass pyramids house flowers and plants from tropical, temperate, and arid climates.

The Edmonton Art Gallery exhibits the work of Canadian and international artists, and even has a rental and sales gallery. The smaller galleries in the vicinity of Jasper Avenue and 124 Street, along what has appropriately been dubbed the “Gallery Walk,” exhibit works mainly by Albertan and Canadian artists.

Nightlife Sports bars, country and western bars, pubs, or quiet lounges. Edmonton’s has all of them. Some of the more popular spots are The Sidetrack Cafe, where you can catch both local and international artists, The Sherlock Holmes, which has several locations in the city; and the new-on-the-scene nightclubs like Ceili’s and Druid’s.

West Edmonton Mall

This mall is really a one-stop, entertainment, shopping, dining, and nightclub complex. It even has an amusement park, a full-size waterpark, a skating rink, a mini golf course, and a submarine ride. It’s a city within a city!
   Fun Facts

City information

Pioneer spirit meets modern enterprise in Canada’s newest business capital. It’s rich in cowboy culture and home to the Calgary Stampede; gateway to the Rocky Mountains and host of the 1988 Winter Olympics; and a magnet for adventurers the world over.

  Restaraunts / Bars

Calgary is a city where an international population and a strong local culture assure a broad range of dining choices, whether you are looking for an old-fashioned family restaurant or feel a need to sample exotic foriegn spices. The bar and club scene is no less diverse with establishments catering to every crowd, from draft beer swilling traditionalists to Martini-loving professionals to techno-rave enthusiasts.

There are several restaurant and bar districts, each with its own distinct flavor and character. From the refined pubs of Kensington to the rough and ready cowboy bars of the Stampede area, there is something for everyone to be found here.

Kensington

Kensington is the place to find the exotic and unusual in Calgary, with several blocks packed with small shops and restaurants. This is where the ethnically diverse establishments such as the Marathon Ethiopian Restaurant , Manana Imports, and the the Irish Kensington Pub can be found. The Latin ambiance of the Newt and Italian flavor of the Cava Cafe add even more character to an area famed for its diversity and adventurous architectural style. This is also ground zero for coffee shops, with over a dozen establishments ranging from cyber-cafes to old-fashioned bakeries crowded into a few blocks.

Inglewood

Inglewood is the oldest region of the city, and the area where the first settler in the Bow Valley built his homestead. The buildings date from the turn of the century, with many built in the now-crumbling sandstone blocks popular at the time. The local businesses reflect the frontier character by offering a more down-home Canadian atmosphere than the upper-crust cuisine of Kensington. This is where you will find Kane’s Harley Diner, located in a Harley Davidson shop, as well as the Hose and Hound Pub, which occupies a deserted fire-hall.

17th Avenue

Fashion, flash and panache dominate 17th Avenue. Home to most of the city’s upper-end clothing and jewelry designers, this is where the young and upwardly mobile strut their stuff. Martini and hibachi bars line the east end, while family and international restaurants nestle amongst the shops of the west end. Some of Calgary’s more exotic nightclubs pump out industrial-driven techno music to crowds of over-energized teenagers late into the night.

Eau Claire Market

Eau Claire Market, located beside the Sheraton Cavalier, is the best place to find upscale chain restaurants. The market courtyard is surrounded with such culinary standbys as the Old Spaghetti Factory and Joey Tomato’s Kitchen, while the interior is home to Prego Cucina Italiano and Cajun Charlie’s.

Stephen Avenue Walk

Stephen Avenue Walk is a cobblestoned street in the heart of the city which is closed to vehicles and has become a gathering point for Calgarians from all walks of life. This is where you will find The Palace Nightclub,, which is the undisputed monarch of Calgary nightclubs, as well as the more sedate The Unicorn Celtic Pub and a host of street cafes and small restaurants. Located beneath the towers of Bankers Hall, the sidewalks are always alive with street performers and buskers plying their trade amongst a steady stream of bike couriers, business people and travelers.

Fourth Street

If you are looking for a restaurant of any nationality, flavour or decor, chances are that it will be found somewhere on Fourth Street southwest. Between 17th street and the Elbow River, both sides of Fourth are jammed with dozens of restaurants serving fare as diverse as the Burger Inn’s ostrich burger or the garlic-saturated “stinking steak” at Antonio’s Garlic Clove. The Fourth Street area is quickly gaining a reputation as one of the best places to eat in western Canada because of its ethnic diversity and wide range of prices.

Macleod Trail

If you are looking for a chain restaurant of any description, it will probably be found somewhere on Macleod Trail. A drive along the strip will reveal at least one franchise of every American fast food restaurant imaginable, as well as the Southcentre and Chinookshopping malls. Lined with Macdonald’s, Pizza Huts and similar establishments, the strip is 10 miles of blazing lights and deafening music emanating from the many boisterous nightclubs. Sandwiched between the Porsche and Ferrari dealerships is a vast strip mall complex which shelters Outlaws, the Back Alley and the French Maid , the largest and loudest of the Calgary clubs.

Stampede

This area is a little bit seedy, but contains some of the wildest and most interesting bars in the city. As it is close to the Stampede Grounds and the Saddledome, hockey fans and Stampede-goers make sure that an exciting time is had by all. The area is often frequented by sports celebrities traveling incognito and has become a favourite haunt of Prince Albert of Monaco.

The country-western tradition is especially strong here, with many bar patrons sporting cowboy boots and large-brimmed Stetson hats. Local saloon owners are fiercely loyal to the home hockey and football teams, and one has made a habit of standing in the street dressed only in red long underwear and sporting a shotgun while he waits for the opposing team’s bus to drive by, which it invariably does after hockey games, accompanied by much derisive hooting from both the bar patrons and the occupants of the bus.

Jim Coates

  Recommended tours

Calgary is a city that has always thrived on adventure, from the cowboy antics of the first ranchers to the rough and tumble oil booms to the looming slopes of Banff National Park, which have tempted and challenged adventurers from all over the globe for the last century. It is not surprising then that the majority of excursions in and around the city glorify the great outdoors, from the deep powder of mountain ski resorts to the world famous trout fishing on the Bow River. Don’t be alarmed if you feel that you aren’t the adventurous sort?there are hundreds of more sedate ways to see the city.

When you first arrive in town, the fastest way to get oriented is to take a trip to the top of the Calgary Tower, where the entire city is spread out 190 meters below. The restaurant and lounge in the observation deck rotate slowly, giving you a 360-degree view every few minutes. Exploring the city on foot is easy if you take advantage of the paved walking and cycling trails linking downtown with most of the residential areas and municipal parks. From the broad, tree-lined boulevards separating Eau Claire Market from the Bow River to the twisting walkways of Fish Creek Provincial Park, it is possible to ride from one end of the city to the other without ever leaving a bike path. If you feel like a gentle stroll along the riverfront, Prince’s Island Park along the Bow River provides a quick getaway from the bustle of the downtown streets. Bicycle and in-line roller skate rentals are available during the summer, and maps issued by the city detail routes and points of interest.

Tour bus packages are the easiest way to see the countryside around Calgary in a short time. Several companies provide motorcoach trips from major Calgary hotels to Banff, the Columbia Icefield, Head Smashed In Buffalo Jump and Waterton Lakes National Park. For the traditionalists, there are luxury train tours through the Rocky Mountains and southern British Columbia.

If you want to get off the beaten path and see parts of the mountains invisible from the tour buses, guided horseback rides are offered at several ranches in Kananaskis Country. These rides last anywhere from an hour to several days, and are relatively inexpensive. Some ranches also offer bed and breakfast facilities for those wishing to stay overnight.

Heritage Park Historical Village and Fort Calgary Historic Park are two sites that allow you to discover the pioneer way of life with turn of the century buildings, artifacts, and guides dressed in period costume. The Glenbow Museum details the history of Western Canada, as well as its exhibits on cultures the world over.

For prehistoric entertainment, the Calgary Zoo and Prehistoric Park features a recreation of life in Alberta 60 million years ago, complete with life-sized dinosaurs. If you want to take a drive in the country, visit the Royal Tyrell Museum in Drumheller, a small town two hours north of Calgary. This famous museum is a World Heritage Site, and is the site of hundreds of dinosaur fossil discoveries.

A relaxing time can be had floating down the Bow River, which runs from Banff to Calgary, in a canoe, raft or drift boat. Guides are available to help you navigate the twisting channels, and they can show you the best places to fish for the famous Bow River brook trout. Hunters seeking antelope, white-tailed deer and bighorn sheep in Kananaskis Country can secure the services of a guide through one of several outfitting companies in the area.

Canada Olympic Park, site of the 1988 Winter Olympics, is open for tours year round; its most impressive sites include the 90-meter ski jump and the bobsled track. The top of the ski jump tower is the highest point in Calgary, and can be rented out for parties and conventions. The Bobsled Bullet is a modified bobsled that you can ride at speeds of over 90 km/hr down the same twisted and icy track featured in the Disney movie “Cool Runnings.”

For an aerial view of the city, hot air balloons and operators can be rented to gently waft you over the city. A balloon ride can last from an hour to an entire day, and is the most peaceful and relaxing way to take in the city, the mountains rising to the west, and the prairie gently rolling away to the east.

    Where to stay

When finding a place to stay in Calgary, your choice of activities will likely play a major factor in picking an area to stay. The most luxurious accommodations, which are also surrounded by the best dining and entertainment in town, can be found in the Downtown and Eau Claire districts. For those desiring the peace and quiet of a romantic getaway, one of the hundreds of bed and breakfasts scattered throughout the city and Rocky Mountain Foothills can satisfy even the most demanding guest. Hotels catering to business travelers and conventions can be found near the Calgary International Airport and in the Banff Trail area. Adventurers may prefer the lodging in the Bowness region for its proximity to the mountains of Banff and Kananaskis Country. Downtown

Built by the Canadian National rail company, the first major hotel in Calgary wined and dined investors before introducing them to the splendour of the mountains. The Palliser Hotel still stands as a monument to the faded railroad history which first put Calgary on the map. Although airplanes have replaced trains in transporting travellers to Banff, the Palliser Hotel continues to provide luxurious accommodations for those who desire nothing but the best, along with such newer hotels as the Sheraton Cavalier and the Westin Calgary.

Bowness

Adventurers and skiers on their way to Banff can watch the rising sun blaze scarlet off the eastern slopes of the Rockies from the balconies of the Bowness hotels. Conveniently located beside the Trans-Canada Highway directly across from Canada Olympic Park,these hotels offer easy access to the mountains while still allowing you the pleasures of Calgary nightlife. These hotels are best suited to travelers with their own vehicles, as it is a lengthy bus ride to downtown or a C-Train station and taxi service is often slow to arrive this far from the city center.

Macleod Trail

If you want to be right in the thick of the action, the hotels along the Macleod Trail Strip are located amongst the biggest shopping centers and nightclubs in Calgary, and are only a five-minute drive from the Stampede Grounds, the Saddledome and Downtown. Most of these hotels are moderately priced franchises of large international chains, and are a good place to stay while enjoying the sporting events and festivals in the Stampede area. There are several C-Train stations close to the hotels, which allow for quick and easy access to downtown.

Bed and Breakfasts

If you feel like something a little more laid-back than a big hotel, try one of the more than 100 bed and breakfasts scattered throughout the city. Each has a unique charm and personality, and service is generally better than that in hotels. Most are a little more expensive than comparable hotel lodging, but it is well worth it for the warmth and comfort.

Banff Trail

The Banff Trail hotels cater to business travelers who want to be close to the downtown business district, but want a more affordable stay with modern amenities. Located beside the Banff Trail C-Train station, which whisks commuters to the heart of downtown in less than five minutes, all are almost brand new, and most feature high-speed Internet access as well as virtual office services. These hotels are also popular with football fans, as they are right across the street from McMahon Stadium and the University of Calgary. Early reservations are very important during the football playoffs in October and November when exuberant fans flood the area.

Airport

If you are flying into Calgary and are only planning to stay overnight, a cluster of hotels near the airport can save you the 20-minute cab ride into town. Complete with a selection of chain and independent restaurants, as well as most of the city’s warehouse-style shopping, the area around the airport could be considered a city independent from the rest of Calgary. Many of the hotels here cater to business travellers who want quick and efficient service and don’t want any hassles. Many of these hotels have virtual office services including equipment rentals and high speed Internet connection.

There are several times of the year when it is vitally important to make your hotel booking far in advance. During the Calgary Stampede, which lasts from July 4-10 every year, almost every hotel room in the city will be booked as thousands of rodeo fans flood into town. If you are visiting the city and are not in the rodeo spirit, it might be advisable to book a bed and breakfast out in the country, as the revelry is loud, boisterous and affects nearly every part of the city. Similarly, during years that the Canadian Football League’s Grey Cup is held in Calgary, accommodation becomes quite scarce.

Jim Coates

    Getting there

Getting There: By Air: Calgary International Airport (+1 403 735 1200/ http://www.calgaryairport.com) offers service on numerous airlines. Its terminals house the following airlines: Alaska Airlines (+ 1 800 426 0333/ http://www.alaskaair.com) American West Airlines (+1800 235 9292/ http://www.americawest.com) Air Canada (+1 800 776 3000/ http://www.aircanada.ca ) American Airlines (+ 1 800 433 7300/ http://www.aa.com) Canadian North (+1 800 661 1505/ http://www.canadiannorth.com) Continental (+1 800 525 0280/ http://www.continental.com ) Delta (+1 800 221 1212/ http://www.delta.com ) Jetsgo (+ 1 866 440 0441/ http://www.jetsgo.net) Northwest (+1 800 225 2525/ http://www.nwa.com ) QuickAir ( + 1 800 551 7845/ http://www.quikair.ca) United (+1 800 241 6522/ http://www.ual.com ) US Airways (+1 800 428 4322/ http://www.usairways.com ) WestJet (+ 1 800 538 5696/ http://www.westjet.com) Zoom Airlines Inc (+1 866 359 9666/ http://www.flyzoom.ca) Calgary Transit (+1 403 262 1000/ http://www.calgarytransit.com) offers service from the airport to destinations throughout the city. Shuttle services are provided by Allied Limousine (+1 403 299 9554), Ambassador Limousine (+1 403 299 4910), Air Linker Limousine Service (+1 403 250 8300), and Limojet (+1 403 863 5268).

Rental Car companies include: Avis (+1 800 831 2847/ http://www.avis.com ) Enterprise (1+ 800 736 8227/ http://www.enterprise.com/car_rental/home) Budget (+1 800 527 0700/ http://www.budget.com ) Hertz (+1 800 654 3131/ http://www.hertz.com) Thrifty (+1 800 367 2277/ http://www.thrifty.com)

By Train: Calgary is serviced by VIA Rail Canada (+1 888 842 7245/ http://www.viarail.ca) and Royal Canadian Pacific (+1 403 508 1407/ http://www.cprtours.com).

By Bus: Calgary can be reached by Greyhound (+1 800 661 8747/ http://www.greyhound.ca), Red Arrow Motorcoach (+1 800 232 1958/ http://www.redarrow.ca/home), and a number of regional providers.

By Car: Calgary can be reached by Trans-Canadian Highways 1, 2, and 72.

Getting Around:

Calgary Transit (+1 403 262 1000/ http://www.calgarytransit.com) offers extensive public transit throughout the city.

    District guide

The skyscrapers of downtown Calgary seem out of place rising unexpectedly from the shallow Bow River Valley. They contrast sharply with the dry, flat prairie stretching off to the east and south, and are dwarfed by the jagged ramparts of the Rocky Mountains looming to the west. Pinched between the slopes of one of the world’s most rugged mountain ranges and the soft, fertile undulations of the grasslands, Calgary is a city constantly on the move, rarely pausing to catch its collective breath before the next boom sweeps it off its feet.

Less than a century old, the city hasn’t had time to develop a rich heritage, but instead has built a rough and ready character full of youth which thrives on spectacle and excess. From the noise and bravado of the Calgary Exhibition and Stampede, billed as the “Greatest Outdoor Show on Earth,” to the more subdued opulence of the Palliser Hotel’s famous galas, the city vibrates with a barely-controlled energy straining to rush after the next trend.

Known as a hotbed for young entrepreneurs, the city has embraced the information age, while still clinging to the pioneer roots forged by the ranchers, railroad workers and oilmen who laid Calgary’s foundations.

The city sprawls from the foothills of the Rockies in the northwest to the rolling hills and farm country of the southeast. It is divided into four quadrants instersecting at the confluence of the Bow and Elbow Rivers, which meet at right angles in the city center. Center Street runs north to south, and Center Avenue east to west, with all streets laid out in a grid expanding outwards from the center. The Southwest extends from the boreal forests of Kananaskis Country to the office towers of downtown, and is a mix of residential and business districts. It includes the natural beauty of North Glenmore Reservoir and the haute couture and fashion of the 17th Avenue shopping section. The Southwest is also home to the Fourth Street Restaurant district and the Elbow River, which winds its way from Glenmore Reservoir down through the city center until its rendezvous with the Bow River near Inglewood. The Eau Claire Market and riverfront trails around Prince’s Island Park provide a clean and refreshing break from downtown, and are popular lunch spots with downtown office workers.

The Southeast is home to vast oil refineries, fabrication plants and heavy industry, as well as trendy new housing developments and the world famous Spruce Meadows equestrian facilities. Its western boundary is defined by the Macleod Trail Strip, 10 miles of flashing neon, huge nightclubs, malls, hotels and luxury car dealerships. In the north end is the Saddledome and Stampede Grounds, as well as the historic district of Inglewood and the old town-site of Fort Calgary. The Northeast is separated from the rest of the city by the Deerfoot Trail, a freeway which carries most of Calgary’s commuter traffic and is one of the most dangerous roads in Canada. Comprised mostly of older working-class neighborhoods interspersed with industrial areas, the Northeast is the place to find factory-outlet shopping, as well as the Calgary Zoo, Botanical Garden and Prehistoric Park and Calgary International Airport. The area around the airport is currently undergoing heavy development, whose goal is the transformation of a rather seedy district into a comfortable village where air travelers can find all types of accommodation, dining and shopping without ever leaving the area. In the Northwest you can find many of the city’s academic institutions and athletic facilities, as well as its upscale residential districts. Both the University of Calgary and the Southern Alberta Institute of Technology are located here, as well as the Canada Olympic Park and McMahon Stadium. On the banks of the Bow River and close to downtown is Kensington Village, a collection of shops, galleries and restaurants catering to the more artistic crowd. Kensington’s famous eateries represent almost every ethnic cuisine, from Thai to Ethiopian to Irish, and are popular lunch spots for downtown executives.

Jim Coates

    Historical background

The city of Calgary has only been incorporated since 1904, but it is estimated that the Bow River Valley has been inhabited for the last 10,000 years. At the end of the last Ice Age, the ancestors of the present-day native tribes made their way across the Bering Sea from Siberia, traveling down through Alaska before settling in the Rocky Mountain foothills. There they formed the Blackfoot, Sarcee, Blood, Stoney and Shaganappi nations, and subsisted on the seasonal migrations of American buffalo herds. Their way of life remained relatively unchanged until the late 1870s, when Europeans hunted the buffalo to near-extinction. With the buffalo gone, the natives began trapping beaver and other fur-bearing mammals for the Hudson’s Bay and North-West Trading companies, who set up trading posts in the Bow Valley and at Rocky Mountain House to the northwest. The local furs were especially prized by designers in Paris and New York for their richness and quality, and commanded high prices from the traders.

This lucrative market lured opportunists from the United States, who began selling cheap bootleg whiskey to the traders and native trappers. The resulting anarchy inspired the Royal Canadian Mounted Police to dispatch officers in 1894 to build Fort Calgary and restore order. Meanwhile, farmers were beginning to move onto the fertile Alberta prairies. The first settler in the area of what is now Calgary was a cattle rancher who started a small farm near the junction of the Bow and Elbow Rivers, in an area now known as Inglewood. His ranch was the first of hundreds built by the flood of immigrants that would soon pour into the region.

In the late 1800s, Western Canada was still mostly wilderness and the Canadian government was afraid that the United States might try to annex the as-yet-undefined provinces of British Columbia and Alberta. To unite the nation, a railroad was proposed stretching from the Pacific to the Atlantic. This railroad, which began construction in 1881, was to drastically change the nature of Calgary, and transform it from a remote frontier outpost into a bustling jumping-off point for the settling of the Western Prairies.

The Calgary townsite had the good fortune to be built at the entrance to the Kicking Horse Pass, one of the few passages through the sheer eastern wall of the Rocky Mountains. The 10,000-12,000 foot-high peaks denied access to a railway all along their thousand-mile length, except for a narrow valley which led from Calgary into the heart of British Columbia. This meant that the railroad had to be routed through Calgary, which became a major supply station during the construction process. Hotels, saloons and shops sprang up to serve the construction workers, and the first trainloads of immigrant farmers and ranchers began pouring in. The fertile plains to the west of Calgary made ideal grain farming territory, while the rich and abundant natural grasses also produced a grade of beef unequaled in North America. In 1904 the City of Calgary was incorporated with a population of 6,000. It grew slowly until the event occurred that would determine the city’s direction for the rest of the century. In 1914, just before the start of the First World War, huge reserves of oil were discovered in the surrounding hillsides. Half the local ranchers became instantly wealthy, and a boom rocked the city. When the demand for oil dried up after the war, recession set in and many residents set off to seek their fortunes elsewhere.

In 1930, seeking to revive the floundering local economy, an American promoter and four local ranchers set out to create the “Greatest Outdoor Show on Earth,” The Calgary Exhibition and Stampede. This celebration of cowboy culture and the ranching lifestyle became the most celebrated festival in Western Canada, and the rodeo competitions are still a showcase of the best and toughest cowboys and cowgirls in the world.

As the Second World War was winding down, a vast oilfield was discovered to the north, near Edmonton, ushering in a new boom. While most of the actual drilling and processing of the oil was centered around Edmonton, most company headquarters, refineries and related industries chose locations closer to the railroad in Calgary.

In the 1990s, many of Canada’s largest corporations moved their head offices from the more traditional business centers of Montreal and Toronto, and have set up shop in downtown Calgary. The electronics and e-commerce industries have found the community appealing, and are now a driving force behind the city’s development.

Jim Coates

    Entertainment

A lack of entertainment should never be a problem in Calgary. Even though it’s known more for its sense of bawdy adventure than refined good taste, there’s still an activity to get anyone’s blood pumping.

As soon as you mention Calgary, most people immediately think of the noise, dust and excitement of the Calgary Stampede, but there is much more to the city. From the world-renowned sports facilities to over 4,000 restaurants of every nationality and culinary discipline imaginable to a vibrant performing arts community, Calgary provides enough entertainment choices to stave off any sort of boredom.

Sports The Saddledome and McMahon Stadium are Calgary’s two largest sports venues, and are home to the Calgary Stampeders Canadian Football League team and Calgary Flames NHL hockey team. For a unique football experience, drop by McMahon Stadium on any chilly autumn Sunday to see rabid fans, wearing nothing but bathing suits and body paint, as they cheer on the Calgary Stampeders amidst driving sleet and hail. Impervious to cold, such hardcore cheering squads often brave -10 Celsius weather, and fueled by a healthy supply of cheap beer, will remain outside for the three-hour duration of the game.

After hosting the 1988 Olympic Winter Games, the city became known for its excellent athletic facilities, and became a destination for world-class athletes. At 4,000 feet above sea level, the high altitude and thin mountain air enhance training and attract athletes from all over the planet. The Olympic Oval speed skating track is famous for the setting of world records, as is the swimming pool at Lindsay Park Sports Centre, where the water is said to be faster than anywhere else in North America. Spruce Meadows is one of the world’s most famous equestrian facilities, and the site of several prestigious show jumping competitions.

Outdoor Activities

If you want to get some skiing done but don’t have time to drive to Banff and the Rocky Mountain ski resorts, Canada Olympic Park, site of many of the events in the 1988 Olympics, is located about five minutes from downtown and features several lifts and lots of artificial snow. For a real adrenaline rush, watch the nordic ski jumpers as they launch themselves off the 90-meter ski jump and float hundreds of feet through the air. For a more relaxed skiing experience, Wintergreen Ski Area lies just outside the rustic hamlet of Bragg Creek, a 40-minute drive from downtown. With several small lifts and cross-country ski trails, it is ideal for the naturalist or beginner skier.

In the summer, horseback riding and cycling are the best ways to explore the forests and mountains of the parks surrounding the city, and guided tours are available in Kananaskis Country to the west of the city, as well as in and around the city itself. For those looking for a more leisurely adventure, canoes and drift boats can be rented for a pleasant float down the Bow River.

Theatre and Comedy

Theatre groups include the One Yellow Rabbit Performance Theatre, which is famous for its entertaining and controversial plays, and Loose Moose Theatre, renowned for its hilarious improvisational sessions. For large theatrical productions, the Calgary Center for Performing Arts has five venues scattered throughout the city, ranging from the 1,800-seat Jack Singer Concert Hall to the 180-seat Big Secret Theatre.

Shopping

Shopping in Calgary is easy. There are about a dozen shopping areas in the city, each unique in character, price and merchandise. 17th Avenue is lined with trendy clothing and jewelry shops, Kensington Village caters to the artistic and international crowd, Downtown is home to both Banker’s Hall and Stephen Avenue Walk, and Eau Claire Market is a showpiece of independent small business. Inglewood and Marda Loop areas cater to the more eclectic shoppers with vintage galleries and unusual import shops, and Macleod Trail boasts a selection of hundreds of discount warehouses and huge shopping centers.

Cinema

Calgary has a plethora of mainstream and alternative cinema choices for the discriminating moviegoer. Cineplex Odeon theaters are scattered throughout the city, and every major shopping center has a cinema hidden in it somewhere. The Eau Claire Market IMAX Theatre presents stunning documentaries and feature films on its four-story-high screen. The Plaza and The Uptown Stage and Screen are stanchions of the local independent film community.

Calgary Stampede

The Calgary Exhibition and Stampede is undoubtably Calgary’s biggest event, and claims to be the largest festival in Western Canada. Over a million people pour into the city to watch the bull and bronco riding, chuckwagon races, and receive a heaping dose of cowboy culture.

Concerts and Music

Calgary plays host to most North American rock and pop tours with a steady stream of concert dates throughout the year. The Palace and Outlaws nightclubs also feature classic and up-and-coming rock performers, while alternative and rave music can be found in the Night Gallery club. Jazz and Blues fans will be delighted by the Calgary Jazz Festival, held every year in July.

Afficionados of classical music will enjoy the Calgary Philharmonic Orchestra, which performs on a regular basis at events throughout the city. Museums and Interpretive Sites

For explorers young and old, Calgary has a wealth of museums and exhibitions, including the Glenbow Museum, the futuristic Calgary Science Centre, and Heritage Park Historical Village. The Calgary Zoo, Botanical Garden and Prehistoric Park showcases flora and fauna from every corner of the globe, while an hour’s drive from Calgary in the town of Drumheller, the Royal Tyrrell Museum will astound and fascinate dinosaur lovers and naturalists with one of North America’s largest dinosaur skeleton collections.

Jim Coates

    Fun Facts

 City information

One of the world’s premier mountain resorts thanks to world-class ski trails, magnificent scenery, multi-star lodging and dining options, night-life ranging from the raucous to the refined, and limitless opportunities for adventure winter and summer.

     Restaraunts / Bars

Drinking and Dining are two very different activities in Banff. Well known as both a party town and a seat of haute couture, the town boasts raucous bars, but also gourmet eateries to shame the best in Canada. From the starched linens of the Banff Springs Hotel’s banquet hall to the grimy oaken tables of the Pump and Tap Tavern, your search for sustenance can show you the many sides of Banff.

Dining With hundreds of restaurants scattered throughout the town, it can be hard to choose one. Almost every hotel has a restaurant or two, most of which specialize in steak, which is eaten almost as commonly as breakfast cereal in Alberta. Vegetarian diners won’t be pleased, as it is nearly impossibly to find a meal without meat hidden in it somewhere.

The hotel restaurants typically are quite nice, though their menus are often limited. Most feature a casual dress code and meals in the $10-$20 (Canadian) range. Wine is a point of pride amongst Banff restaurateurs, and many of the hotels have cellars with hundreds of different varieties. Independent restaurants have flourished, particularly along Banff Avenue, and here you’ll find greater variety, including foods from the Mediterranean, Asia, South America and Mexico. As Banff is particularly popular with visitors from Japan, sushi bars and noodle houses abound. For Greek cuisine, Caramba! and the Balkan can whip up a savory batch of calamari at a moment’s provocation. The Magpie and Stump serves huge helpings of fine Mexican food in a rather eccentric atmosphere, and the Saki House will have a steaming bowl of fresh noodles ready for you in seconds. If you are in the mood for a pizza, but don’t want another one of the greasy fast-food varieties, try the bacon and crabmeat roesti potato pizza at the Bistro.

If you are looking to dine while still drinking in the spectacular view of the Rockies, many restaurants have expansive patios and glassed in dining areas. Two of the best mountain views can be had at the Big Horn Steakhouse and the Ristorante Classico. One nice thing about Banff is that there are very few fast-food outlets. Aside from a McDonald’s and a Subway, the town is free from franchised chains. This allows for a great variety of food, and makes for some surprisingly good lunches and snacks. Aardvark’s Pizza is Banff’s undisputed late-night snacking locale, with fast and healthy pizzas, wraps, donairs and sandwiches.

And then to drinking Drinking is a very serious affair in Banff, and an activity that the denizens of the town approach with a great deal of enthusiasm. Nearly every hotel has a venue of some sort, whether a quiet martini bar or a feverishly loud nightclub. Banff is almost as famous for its nightlife as it is for its skiing. Should you arive in Banff at any time of night, on any night of the year you are guaranteed to see Banff Avenue teeming with carousers. Braving subzero cold in nothing but t-shirts, revelers hop from bar to bar along the Avenue, sampling the specials that each has to offer.

The Aurora Nightclub is the classiest of the clubs, with purple neon fuzzing the distinction between the doors of the maze-like interior and the mirrors scatted about the walls. The Outabounds is a celebration of extreme skiing and snowboarding, with cheap drinks, ski and snowboarding movies playing constantly, and a fog-covered dance floor that is almost always feverishly busy. The Rose & Crown is a little more laid-back and serves as a family restaurant during the daylight hours. After dark, however, it fills with resort workers dancing to the live music.

For those who don’t need many distractions to enjoy their drink,