City information

A city of superlatives: one of Canada’s most historic and picturesque; site of its most famous battle; on the banks of its mightiest river. Add excellent dining, shopping and entertainment, throw in surrounding mountains and forests, and you have Quebec

Restaraunts / Bars

No visit to Quebec City would be complete without sampling its famous culinary institutions and its renowned, even notorious nightlife. For a metropolitan area of fewer than 700,000 inhabitants, Quebec boasts an uncommon number of superb restaurants, charming cafes, seething dance clubs and quiet little hideaways.

Most visitors will naturally gravitate towards the city’s sensational French bistros and restaurants. Indeed, most of Quebec’s truly world-class eateries serve some kind of French cuisine; at the forefront are the traditional (and expensive) opulence of Guido Le Gourmet, Laurie Raphael, Initiale and the incomparable Le Champlain, all in Vieux-Quebec, with all setting diners back up to CAD100 for dinner for two.

The Grande-Allee hosts its own restaurant scene, which includes the hectic bistro action at Paris-Brest, La Closerie and other brisker, more casual spots. Haute cuisine finds a home, too, in the newer part of Quebec City, in such landmarks as the revolving L’Astral, and in the Loews Le Concorde hotel, where locally-influenced haute cuisine goes miles beyond the typical revolving fare.

This blending of traditional French cuisine with local ingredients and techniques such as game meats, local cheeses, cranberries, maple syrup products, and so on, is characteristic of many restaurants in the area. Few kitchens in Quebec City entirely escape the hearty, stick-to-your-ribs influence of Quebecois fare. Those that revel in it include the landmark Maison Serge Bruyere, perhaps the city’s best-known restaurant, and the spectacular Manoir Montmorency (where, after dinner in the winter, you can stop in for a unique nightcap at the Ice Hotel’s Absolut Bar!).

The countryside surrounding the city, and especially the tiny townships of Ile d’Orleans, contains numerous other French/Quebecois institutions. La Mairie, in Loretteville’s beautiful town hall, and the renowned Le Canard Huppe in St-Laurent on Ile d’Orleans, are just two examples. Many of these ages-old restaurants are associated with charming inns or B&B’s, and can form part of a delightful day trip away from Quebec City. Each exudes its own sense of quiet civility, especially in winter for the ideal romantic getaway.

Area restaurants also benefit from Quebec’s proximity to the sea, which results in such restaurants as Le Marie-Clarisse in the historic Quartier Petit Champlain, and also in a seemingly incongruous concentration of Belgian restaurants. Witness Vieux-Quebec’s Moss and the charming B&B hideaway Douceurs Belges, just west of the city proper. Moules frites (mussels and fries) are a very popular choice for pub grub or a light evening meal in a city that tends to eschew McDonald’s and its ilk.

Though anyone with a strong distaste for French food will find his choices limited in Quebec City, he will not go hungry. Two outstanding Italian restaurants also highlight the local scene: the famous Cafe d’Europe is in Vieux-Quebec, while Graffiti’s French-Italian fusion cuisine and indomitable wine list can be found on the Grande-Allee. Other options await the intrepid, of course, especially outside of heavily touristed areas. As in France, eating out is considered not just a means to an end but a way of life; substandard food is simply not tolerated and should by no means be expected, even in a neighbourhood Chinese or Vietnamese place.

Of course, even if a meal should somehow fall short of your justifiably high expectations, plenty of distraction awaits at night to put your mind on other things. Though locals bemoan the death of Vieux-Quebec’s traditional cafe culture, a thoroughly civilized afternoon or evening awaits at the popular Pub Saint-Alexandre, the Cafe Krieghoff, or any number of lesser known coffee shops and cafes. It may seem in Vieux-Quebec like there should be more of them, but you will never want for a steaming cup of coffee and good conversation.

Later in the night, things get considerably rowdier at any number of nightclubs in Vieux-Quebec and especially on the Grande-Allee. Some of the better-known nightspots include Chez Dagobert and Chez Maurice, the latter named ironically after despotic former Quebec Premier Maurice Duplessis; both are enormous, pulsating dance clubs that don’t cool down until 3am at the earliest. Meanwhile, La Fourmi Atomik offers a downstairs dance floor and a more refined art gallery atmosphere upstairs. Quieter pints await at the aforementioned Pub Saint-Alexandre or the Thomas Dunn Pub, where you can also take a break from all the steak-frites and baked chevre in favour of a bang-up plate of fish-n-chips!

All in all, the dining and nightlife in Quebec City exude a decidedly French charisma?much more so even than in Montreal. Though cosmopolitan in appearance and attitude, Quebec is less multicultural than many other Canadian cities, and English is rarely?if ever?heard outside of tourist areas. It is, literally and spiritually, the capital of French Canada. As such, this relatively small city manages to remain at the forefront of the North American restaurant scene, which only strengthens its uniquely European feel.

Chris Selley

Recommended tours

One of the beauties of a Quebec City vacation is that the city’s compact nature allows you to stay in any number of architecturally and atmospherically distinct regions while remaining steps away from all major attractions and restaurants. As such, the best way to experience the old-world charm of the city is undoubtedly on foot.

A typical walking tour might begin and end at the Dufferin Terrace, overlooking Place Royale and the St. Lawrence River, with the Chateau Frontenac hotel looming in the background. From here you have easy access to the three main areas awaiting exploration in Quebec City: the lower town, comprising the Vieux-Port and Place Royale; Vieux-Quebec, or the area inside the fortifications; and the Upper Town, especially the area stretching along the Grande-Allee.

Place Royale and Vieux-Port There are two ways down from the Dufferin Terrace?the stairs and the Funicular. Each has its obvious advantages and disadvantages, and the latter is understandably most popular for the return trip! Each brings you out in the heart of Place Royale, near the Batterie Royale and the charming Rue du Petit Champlain.

Wander through the charming shops and restaurants of the Quartier du Petit Champlain, along Notre-Dame, Champlain or Petit-Champlain Streets, towards Place Royale itself. This square, bounded by St-Pierre to the west, Dalhousie to the east and de la Barricade to the north, is where explorer Samuel de Champlain set up a fledgling settlement in 1608. Drop in at the Place Royale Information Centre to find historic and practical details on attractions in the immediate area: the Notre-Dame-des-Victoires church and the Museum of Civilization, for instance.

If you wish to return to Vieux-Quebec at this point, simply loop back around to the stairs or Funicular back to the Dufferin Terrace. Alternately, you can continue north and west into the Vieux-Port, stopping at the Old Port of Quebec Interpretation Centre, which documents the city’s industrial and commercial history, while offering a pleasant environment for many summer activities.

From here you can continue west up St-Paul or de la Canoterie Streets, switching back up and through the fortifications into Vieux-Quebec, in close proximity to many key attractions, including the Museum of French America and the Hotel-Dieu Augustines Museum.

From the latter, you can wind your way along Cote-du-Palais, jog left on St-Jean Street and then right on Cote-de-la-Fabrique, which takes you past City Hall. Hang right on the famous Rue du Tresor and enjoy the diverse, high-quality artwork for sale along this intriguing, narrow alleyway. You will emerge on St-Louis Street, on the other side of the Chateau Frontenac from where you started on the Dufferin Terrace.

Alternately, from the Hotel-Dieu Augustines Museum, you can walk west along the fortifications themselves. The Rue des Remparts will eventually take you to the Artillery Park National Historic Site, and then to Place d’Youville and the St-Jean Gate, which links the Upper Town to Vieux-Quebec. Place d’Youville is a perfect spot to stop off and enjoy street musicians in the summer, or to make a couple of laps around the skating rink in the winter.

Continuing south along Rue d’Auteuil and then St-Denis Avenue, you will emerge at The Citadel, the linchpin of Quebec City’s fortifications, which offers an incredible view over the river and various exhibits chronicling the city’s history. From here it is an easy walk back to the Dufferin Terrace and the Chateau Frontenac.

Upper Town and the Grande-Allee The most spectacular and interesting route from the Dufferin Terrace to the Upper Town is undoubtedly along the Promenade des Gouverneurs, the precipitous boardwalk running under The Citadel and linking the Dufferin Terrace with the National Battlefields Park. Wander around this enormous park, have a picnic and visit the Quebec Museum and attached National Battlefields Park Interpretation Centre. Plaques throughout the park detail its tumultuous and fascinating history.

Eventually you will make your way away from the cliffs and arrive at the decidedly urban action of the Grande-Allee. This magnificent boulevard is full of shops, restaurants and boutiques. In the summer, you could while away an entire afternoon over a cocktail at a sidewalk cafe, but there are many other sights to see in the Upper Town.

Head up Rue de la Chevrotiere or any other side street towards the Rue St-Amable and the Marie-Guyart Building, located at the intersection of de la Chevrotiere and Rene-Levesque Boulevard. For a panoramic overview of your marathon walking tour, ride up 725 feet to the Observatoire de la Capitole. After descending, continue back towards Vieux-Quebec along Rene-Levesque or St-Amable and you will encounter the ornate Parliament Buildings?or National Assembly, in local parlance. Tours are available every day in French and English. Continue along the Grande-Allee, through the St-Louis Gate, and soon you will be once again faced with the grandeur of the Chateau Frontenac.

If you have somehow managed to complete this tour in one day, you now owe yourself dinner at one of dozens of area restaurants. In the summer, you could relax among buskers and concession stands as the sun goes down over the Dufferin Terrace; in the winter, you might choose to get your adrenaline going with an ice toboggan ride before warming up with a hot chocolate. Obviously, a day is precious little time to really savour what Quebec has to offer?no matter the duration of your stay. However, it is a pleasure to know that you can ditch the car and explore on foot.

Chris Selley

Where to stay

Few North American cities combine the old and the new as effectively and attractively as Quebec. Because of this mixture, the city offers many different kinds of accommodation?from modern luxury high-rises to stately historic hotels, tiny inns and bed and breakfasts. In fact, many visitors choose to mix and match, perhaps splurging for a night at the Chateau Frontenac, before retreating to more reasonably priced options in or around the city.

Old Quebec Still, for those looking for the ne plus ultra of Quebec hotels, it begins and ends with the Chateau Frontenac?the grande dame of Canadian Pacific’s many stately properties across Canada. One of the world’s most famous hotels, the Chateau dominates Quebec’s skyline and is the city’s most famous building. Its labyrinthine interior conceals hundreds of different-shaped (and sized) rooms, lavish decor and the world-class Le Champlain restaurant.

On the upper end of the price spectrum you will also find the stylish Hotel Dominion 1912, a boutique hotel with cutting edge interior design. Those familiar with the Hotel le Germain in Montreal will appreciate similar attention to design detail amid a historic rather than postmodern setting. This is fast becoming one of Quebec’s most sought after addresses. Along the same fashionable lines is the Capitole, which looks out over Place d’Youville and houses a theatre as well as the wonderful Il Teatro restaurant.

That said, you needn’t pay through the nose to stay in one of the continent’s landmark hotels. As long as you are willing to forego morning-till-night pampering, any number of moderately-priced hotels in Old Quebec will provide a romantic, historic experience. The Auberge du Tresor, on the wonderful Rue du Tresor, with its famous outdoor art market, claims to be North America’s oldest?the building dates from 1679! Other reasonable options include the Chateau Bellevue, the Hotel de Vieux-Quebec and the Hotel Marie-Rollet. All offer comfortable accommodation in ancient, cozy surroundings.

Upper Town Staying in “New Quebec” means easy access to the restaurants and nightclubs of the Grande-Allee, the historic Plains of Abraham and the Musee de Quebec?but you’re still just minutes from Old Quebec. You’ll find newer hotels here, with the modern Loews Le Concorde in place of the Chateau Frontenac at the head of the pack. The Hilton Quebec is another high-rise, convention-oriented hotel that appeals to business travellers and to those who appreciate modern luxury.

Smaller hotels on or near the Grande-Allee include the Manoir Lafayette, the Auberge du Quartier and the Chateau Grande-Allee. Dozens more B&B’s and moderately-priced hotels are in the area. Each offers its own blend of old and new world charms, and many are less touristy than similar establishments in Old Quebec.

Out of town Many visitors choose to spend some or all of their visit outside of Quebec proper. Day trips to Ile d’Orleans, the Charlevoix region, the Laurentian Mountains, Beauport and Montmorency Falls can be combined with stays at country inns, lavish resorts, rustic cabins or even a hotel made entirely of ice! The lack of urban sprawl and proximity of true wilderness to Quebec makes staying outside the city even more attractive?skiers, for instance, can nip into town for a world-class dinner and drinks and be back at Mont Ste-Anne in less than half an hour!

Indeed, those in search of luxury will find it in the vicinity of this world-famous ski resort, at the Chateau Mont Ste-Anne, or in Pointe-au-Pic at the stunning Manoir Richelieu resort. The aforementioned Ice Hotel, located adjacent to the Montmorency Falls, is based on a Swedish model and provides one of the world’s truly unique accommodation experiences. Despite some curmudgeonly press (surprise: it’s cold!), this stylish and fascinating spot continues to draw thousands.

Ile d’Orleans is the place for intimate B&B’s and small country inns. Le Canard Huppe and the Auberge la Goeliche are typical of several beautiful country inns that combine rustic accommodations with outstanding French and Quebec cuisine. Romantically inclined visitors especially should consider at least a night on this picturesque island in the St Lawrence River.

Families and anyone out for a wilderness adventure can spend a night or two at one of dozens of cabins for rent in the Laurentides Wildlife Preserve and the Jacques-Cartier Park within it. You can spend your days cross-country skiing or snowshoeing in winter, canoeing or hiking in the summer and end up just minutes from your door.

From big-name chains to inexpensive nights in 300-year-old homes, Quebec offers accommodation options for every budget and taste.

Getting there

Getting There:

By Air:

Quebec City Jean Lesage International Airport (YQB) (+1 418 640 2700/ http://www.aeroportdequebec.com) Is located only 15 minutes west of downtown Quebec City and offers a range of services capable of meeting the needs of airports users. It hosts international flights from Mexico and Paris as well as various U.S. destinations. The airport houses these following airlines:

Air Canada (+1 800 776 3000/ http://www.aircanada.ca )

Air inuit, (+1 800-361-2965/ http://www.airinuit.com/)

Air Labrador, (+1 800-563-3042/ http://www.airlabrador.com/)

Continental Express (+ 1 418-872-4298/ http://www.continental.com/)

Jetsgo (+1 866-440-0441/ http://www.jetsgo.com/)

Northwest Airlines (+1 800-225-2525/ http://www.nwa.com/)

Quebecair Express (+1 877-871-6500/ http://www.quebecairexpress.com/

Zoom Airlines (+ 1 866-359-9666/ http://www.gotraveldirect.com/)

Rental car companies include:

Avis (+1 418-872-2861/ http://www.avis.com/)

Enterprise (+1 418-861-8820/ http://www.enterprise.com/)

Hertz, (+1 418-871-1571/ http://www.hertz.com/)

National/Alamo (+1 418-877-9822/ http://www.nationalcar.com/)

Budget (+1 418-872-9885/ http://www.budgetmtl.com/)

Thrifty (+1 418-877-2870/ http://www.thrifty.com/)

Limousine companies include:

Groupe Limousine A-1 (+1 418-523-5059/ http://www.limousinequebec.com/)

Limousine Robert Boucher (+1 418-654-8884/ http://www.quebecairlimo.com/)

Service de limousine Aristo Car (+1 418-660-5055/ http://www.aristo-car.com)

Service de limousine Guy Samson (+1 418-652-7316/ http://www.limousinesamson.com/)

Taxi companies include:

Service fares are determined per trip and for 1 to 6 people. Minivans are also available for groups. All other destinations will be charged at by taximeter. Fixed rates have been established from Quebec Airport for two different locations: downtown Quebec: $27, Airport surroundings: $12.

Airport Taxi Aeroport (+1 418 564-0555)

Taxivan (+1 418 622-1887)

By Train:

VIA Rail is Canada’s Rail network. (+1 888 842-7245/ http://www.viarail.ca/) This railway operates transcontinental service from Montreal to Vancouver and Montreal to Halifax, as well as fast commuter, business and leisure service within the Quebec City-Windsor corridor. There is also service to remote locations in Ontario, Quebec, Manitoba and British Columbia. In conjunction with major bus companies Via Rail offers bus connections from many centers that do not have rail service, to the nearest point on the Via network.

By Bus:

Autobus Fleur de Lys (+1 800 265-0188)

Intercar Atlantique (+1 888 861-4562)

Orleans Coach Lines (+1 888 999-3977)

By Car:

From the United States:

Highways 89 and 5 in Vermont, Route 201 in Maine and Highways 30, 37, and 87 in New York State lead to the province of Quebec. A few miles from Montreal you may take Highway 30 which leads to Highway 20 towards Quebec City.

From Ontario:

Highways 401 (from Toronto) and 407 (from Ottawa) lead to the province of Quebec. Follow the directions to Montreal, and then to Quebec City (Highways 20 or 40). Highway 40 runs along the north shore of the St. Lawrence River from Montreal to Quebec City and is more enjoyable than Highway 20.

From the Maritimes:

Highway 2 in New Brunswick and Route 185 in the province of Quebec lead to Highway 20 towards Quebec City.

By Bus:

Autobus La Quebecoise Inc (+1 418-872-5525)

Autobus Meridien (+1 418-877-6177)

Autobus Inter-Rive Inc (+1 418-832-6982)

Autobus Societe De Transport De Levis (+1 418-837-2401)

By Taxi:

Taxi Coop Quebec (+1 418 525-5191)

TAXI Quebec (+1 418 522-2001)

By Ferries:

Societe des traversiers du Quebec (+1 418 643-2019)

By Train:

VIA Rail is Canada’s Rail network. (+1 888 842-7245/ http://www.viarail.ca/)

District guide

Quebec is one of the most beautiful cities in North America. Founded in 1608 by Samuel de Champlain, this fortified city has a rich history, architecture and culture, which can be discovered and enjoyed on foot.

Old Quebec The Old City is one of the most popular areas for both tourists and locals, not only because of its charm but also because of its many restaurants, pubs, hotels and boutiques. St-Jean Street is the main entrance to the Old City. This street is at the heart of the social and cultural life of the city, with Place d’Youville and the Palais Montcalm Theatre on the south side and Le Capitole hotel on the north. During the summer months, Place d’Youville is a stage for performing artists, and once the weather gets cold, people of all ages ice skate here to classical music!

A little further down is the historic St-Jean Gate, where one can find many small shops, boutiques, pubs and restaurants. The Magasin General L.P. Blouin, an old-time general store specializing in souvenirs and collectibles, is a popular stop. Restaurants and pubs abound, but the Pub Saint-Alexandre, Au Petit Coin Breton, the Brulerie Tatum and, of course, the famous Serge Bruyere are among the best.

City Hall is on Cote-de-la-Fabrique, where the strip of restaurants and boutiques continues. This street leads to the Place de l’Hotel-de-Ville, the Petit Seminaire de Quebec and the Cathedrale Notre-Dame-de-Quebec. The Rue du Tresor, where local artists show and sell their works, is a few steps away and leads to the Chateau Frontenac and the Dufferin Terrace boardwalk. A stroll on the boardwalk is a must, for the splendid views of the St Lawrence River, the Laurentian Mountains and the Ile d’Orleans. The boardwalk also features street entertainers in the summer and two great ice slides in the winter.

Place Royale and Vieux-Port The Terrace ends with long stairs on both sides: one set goes down to the Vieux-Port and Place Royale, the most picturesque area of Quebec, built in 1608 and abounding in restaurants, antique shops, art galleries and boutiques. Place Royale is not as busy as the Old City but just as fascinating. The wonderful Laurie-Raphael, Cafe du Monde, Peche Veniel and L’Inox bar are located in the Vieux-Port area.

Plains of Abraham The other set of stairs goes up to the Plains of Abraham. It can be quite a workout on a hot summer day but the view is worth the effort. The Plains of Abraham are at the heart of Quebec City’s history. Although nowadays it looks more like a beautiful place to have a family picnic, it is the site of a bloody 1759 battle between the French and the English. Several plaques describe the battle and explain its significance to Quebec’s history. The Martello Towers, which were built to counter the British invaders, are strategically located on the Plains and are open to the public.

On the east end of the Plains, the Musee du Quebec is home to an interpretive center about the battlefields, and also hosts numerous art exhibits throughout the year. The Plains are a rendezvous for joggers, rollerbladers, soccer players in the summer and cross-country skiers and tobogganers in the winter. This is also where people gather for the annaul St-Jean-Baptiste celebrations, the Summer Festival and the Winter Carnival.

St-Louis Street and the Grande Allee St-Louis Street runs parallel to St-Jean Street and is equally filled with restaurants and boutiques. Aux Anciens Canadiens is an interesting restaurant for those with a taste for traditional Quebec cuisine. In this 17th century house, the wait staff dresses as the first habitants of the colony did and customers can enjoy some of Quebec’s classics?tourtiere, for example.

Further west is the entrance to the Citadel, a protective fort located on Cap-aux-Diamants. Every day in the summer, troops perform the changing of the guard according to pure military tradition, and The Citadel also has a fascinating museum. The Parliament Buildings are located on the corner of St-Louis Street and Dufferin Avenue, across from the Plains of Abraham. The design is quite interesting, as the architect, Eugene-Etienne Tache, was inspired by the Louvre Museum in Paris. The results are splendid French Renaissance buildings, which are open for the public to discover.

St-Louis Street becomes the Grande-Allee west of the Parliament Buildings. The Grande-Allee is synonymous with entertainment. This is where most of the clubs in the city are located, and there are also plenty of restaurants. In summer, the establishments open their terraces and people go from one club to the other, dancing the night away.

Rene-Levesque Boulevard and Cartier Street Parallel to the Grande-Allee but further south is Rene-Levesque Boulevard. This is where Quebec’s Grand Theatre and Music Conservatory are located. A few blocks West is Cartier Street, another popular entertainment and dining district. With restaurants like Graffiti, Le Cochon Dingue, Mon Manege a toi, Cafe Krieghoff and Momento, this area is a haven for great dining.

Suburbs There are many suburbs around Quebec, and most of them are much more than bedroom communities. In the West end, Sainte-Foy has several great restaurants like Cactus, Nupur and La Faim de Loup, while Le Clap movie theatre specializes in international films.

On the St Lawrence River, Beauport’s picturesque Royale Avenue leads to the Montmorency Falls. The majestic Ile d’Orleans, an island in the middle of the St. Lawrence River with orchards, farms, charming inns and traditional cuisine, is like having the country in the city. The great outdoors is just a short drive from the Old City?that’s the beauty of Quebec. From fascinating historic buildings to amazing dining and entertainment, powerful rivers and breathtaking mountains and forests, you can have it all.

Valerie Michaud

Historical background

Quebec (keh-BEHK) is Canada’s oldest city, founded by Samuel de Champlain in 1608. Its name was an adaptation of the Algonquian word meaning “the river narrows here”?Champlain chose this spot for the settlement because the high cliffs and narrowing of the St. Lawrence River offered excellent natural and strategic defences.

While regarded as the centre of New France, the growing North American empire of the French, the colony struggled. The harsh climate combined with the rough terrain failed to attract great numbers of French families to the New World. Further, many of the colony’s few settlers were migrants?Couriers de bois?who would come in from the wilderness with furs they had gotten in barter with Native Americans. These men had no interest in taking up permanent residence in Quebec, and often ended up marrying Iroquois or Huron women.

At one point, King Louis XIV had French women sent to New France as wives for the men who inhabited the fledging settlement. These filles de roi exemplified the state of the colony in its early days. In 1666, 58 years after its founding, the population was only 547. Only with increased incentives and persuasion was France able to increase the number of permanent residents to 1,500 by the end of 1690, and to 34,000 by 1730?120 years after the creation of New France.

In the 18th century, the city of Quebec finally began to grow. With a larger population, industry and trade flourished. Couriers de bois continued to bring pelts and furs into the marketplace to trade for other goods, which they could take back into the wilderness. Stores and workshops were built on the river’s edge in the Lower Town.

This market area was Place Royale, still one of the Lower Town’s most popular landmarks, along with the Notre-Dame-des-Victoires Church. The latter is noted for having its altar shaped as a fort. It was completed in 1688 and stands on the site of Champlain’s very first settlement. Meanwhile, the Upper Town gradually began to take its current shape. Houses and schools sprang up within the city’s walls as French citizens began to put down roots in Canada. Today, the Upper Town is full of gourmet restaurants, fine hotels like the Chateau Frontenac, and numerous shops and boutiques. You will also find the Quebec National Assembly here.

As the city grew in size, so did its economic and military importance. The French knew they needed to create a strong system of defenses to protect the capital of New France from the enemy British, ensconsed to the south in the American colonies. What they constructed was the Citadel. Perhaps the most famous of Quebec City’s landmarks, it stands 106 metres above the city on Cap Diamant. It was assumed that an attack would come from the river, the city’s most vulnerable point, and that is where the cannons were aimed.

Unfortunately for the French, the British surprised the French. General James Wolfe and 4,500 British soldiers scaled the steep cliffs leading to the Plains of Abraham, under cover of darkness from September 12-13, 1759. The French commander, Lieutenant-General Louis de Montcalm, ordered his ?army? (a combination of French regulars and poorly-trained militiamen) to meet the enemy. In a battle that lasted 15 minutes, the British routed the defenders. They battered the city with cannon fire until the French army retreated to Montreal, where they would be defeated a year later and New France would fall to the British.

The surrender of Quebec was followed by a period of military occupation and martial law until 1763, when a peace treaty was signed in Paris. With New France now secured as British North America, immigrants arrived to occupy existing cities and to build new ones. The large influx of British, Scottish and Irish immigrants into Quebec City created considerable tension, but it also fostered the international flavour the city still retains. A mingling of cultures over time has resulted in a unique lifestyle and atmosphere.

With the British came order and wealth, and the city grew in leaps and bounds. New sectors of the city were built with their own architecture and character. Agriculture flourished and trade routes extended deeper into the heart of the continent and into the American colonies. But beneath all the British influence remained the “French identity.” Citizens refused to give up their language or their culture to the English speaking authorities.

This patriotic fervour has only increased over time. In 1774, the British passed the Quebec Act, which allowed the French citizens to practice Roman Catholicism and to use French civil law. Still, French-speaking citizens struggled to preserve their culture. During the debates on Confederation in 1867, Quebec representatives refused to join unless guarantees were made to protect the identity of French-speaking people in the newly formed Dominion of Canada.

Quebec City has continued as a hotbed of political activity for those who feel that the French influence in Canada is not strong enough, or that the French are poorly represented and inadequately supported by their government. But despite its strong French identity, Quebec remains a city rich in diverse cultural flavours, styles and history. It is a city of passion. Its residents are not only passionate about their politics, but about their desire to enjoy life to its fullest.

Mark Will

Entertainment

Quebec may be a small city but there’s always plenty to do, even during the cold winter months. Its rich history and culture are effervescent, making residents and visitors want to enjoy their city even more.

Music and theatre Culture is behind each and every stone wall in Quebec City. There are plenty of theatres, presenting a wide variety of shows. The Grand Theatre is at the heart of the city’s entertainment life. It’s home to the Music Conservatory, the Quebec Symphony Orchestra, the Opera de Quebec and the Trident Theatre, which features plays throughout the year.

The Periscope and Bordee theatres, though of smaller stature, are also much appreciated and often present alternative plays. The Palais Montcalm is one of the most beautiful theatres in the city, standing atop Place d’Youville and featuring a wide range of events from classical music to humour. Le Capitole, also located near Place d’Youville, is a richly decorated theatre offering musicals like “The Elvis Story.” Le Capitole also has its own hotel and cabaret, for more intimate entertainment.

Quebec City’s beautiful churches are well-known, in part for the wonderful concerts hosted. The Violons du Roy, a famous string orchestra, performs regularly in local churches. The Salle Albert-Rousseau, located in Sainte-Foy, is the choice of many artists who wish to perform in a smaller state-of-the-art theatre. Pop artists who attract large crowds usually head for the Colisee de Quebec, a large arena where the NHL Nordiques hockey team used to play. Finally, artists who wish to perform under the stars can do so at the Agora du Vieux-Port, a popular outdoor theatre.

Festivals and carnivals During the summer, Quebec City becomes one giant theatre. Artists perform in the streets, in parks, and pretty much everywhere a crowd can gather. In June, hundreds of children from several countries come to the Montmorency Historic Site, near the famous Montmorency Falls, to share their cultures through dance and music. In July, the Summer Festival brings local and international artists to town. For 10 days, stages spring up everywhere in the city: Place d’Youville becomes its own performance space, a large stage is put together in front of the Parliament Buildings and most city parks are turned into small theatres where jazz, folk, pop, rock, opera and every other imaginable genre resonates. For less than CAD10, you can purchase a pin that gives access to all shows during the festival.

In August, Quebec City goes back in time with the Fetes de la Nouvelle-France, which celebrates the 150 years of French Regime in the 17th and 18th centuries. Peasants and seigneurs gather at Place Royale for five days of celebration. During the last week of the summer, Quebec City has its annual fair with all the rides, animals, clowns and cotton candy one would expect.

During the winter, Quebecois find a way to entertain themselves despite the cold with their famous Winter Carnival. For more than 47 years, they have enjoyed many sporting, artistic and cultural activities during this magical carnival, which allows them to rediscover each year the wonders of winter. An international ice sculpture contest, a parade, an ice castle and a canoe race on the icy St. Lawrence River are some of the activities that take place during these 17 days and nights of sheer fun. Ice rinks also spring up everywhere?at Place d’Youville, for instance, people of all ages skate to classical music.

Museums and galleries Although Quebec City offers tons of outdoors activities, those who prefer to stay inside won’t be disappointed. There are plenty of museums, malls and movie theatres. The Museum of Civilization is a must: it features many exhibitions on topics as varied as the beginnings of civilization, the history of clothes, naval history and humour. There are two permanent exhibitions: “Nous les Premieres Nations,” which presents the history and culture of the Native peoples of Canada, and “Memoires,” which relates the history of the first European settlers. The Musee du Quebec, meanwhile, is a treasure of fine art. It has held exhibitions with some of Canada’s most famous artists, including Krieghoff and Dallaire, as well as world-renowned artists like Rodin and Tissot.

Those interested in Quebec’s history will enjoy the Musee des Augustines de l’Hotel-Dieu de Quebec, which relates the history of the sisters who founded the first hospital in North America, as well as the Musee de l’Amerique francaise and the Musee du Fort, which focus more on military history. The Battlefields National Park has an interesting interpretation centre, with a multimedia show on the battle of the Plains of Abraham.

Malls The Old City is filled with shops and boutiques, but there are many great malls in the Greater Quebec City area. Les Galeries de la Capitale is often the favourite because of its indoor entertainment park with rides, an ice rink and movie and IMAX theatres. Place Laurier is the largest mall with 350 stores, while Place Sainte-Foy has many upscale stores and designer boutiques.

Sports Many visitors take at least a day to swoop down the slopes or hit the links at Mont Saint-Anne or Stoneham, both just minutes east of the city. For those who prefer to watch their sports, the area’s several hockey teams are not to be missed. The Remparts play in the Quebec junior league, while the Citadelles are the Montreal Canadiens’ minor league affiliate in the American Hockey League. Both offer outstanding value and fast-paced entertainment.

Nightlife At night, the Grande-Allee is the place to be. This is Quebec City’s busiest street, filled with restaurants, cigar rooms, cafes, pubs and nightclubs. Chez Maurice is one of the most popular clubs in the city, along with Chez Dagobert, and Le Vogue. As a general rule there are no cover charges to get into nightclubs, which means that people can go from one to the other all night long.

In the end, a walk in the Old City, especially on the Dufferin Terrace, is for some the best entertainment available in Quebec City. The view is absolutely gorgeous. Wander through the streets, watch a clown draw a smile on people’s faces, enjoy the afternoon in a nice cafe or dance the night away.

Valerie Michaud

City information

Montreal, one of North America’s most beautiful cities, is a glorious collision of cultures. Few cities in the world can lay claim to being as authentically multi-cultural as Montreal, the second largest French speaking city on the planet.

Restaraunts / Bars

Montreal is the second biggest French city in the world, but you wouldn’t necessarily know it based on its restaurants. Its incredible assortment of ethnic cuisines gives an accurate reflection of the myriad of cultures that contribute to the city’s vibrancy, although unlike some other large North American centers, eateries here tend not to cluster according to cuisine type.

Naturally, the city does boast some outstanding French restaurants. Traditional, buttery fare and old-guard opulence can be found at the venerable Les Halles or the Ritz Carlton’s Cafe de Paris. L’Express lays claim to the best steak-and-frites, among many other bistro favorites. Meanwhile, on the nouvelle cuisine frontier, chef Normand Laprise’s fusion masterpiece Toque! garners international attention while draining the coffers of the gastronomic elite.

Generally speaking, Montreal’s culinary institutions are slightly more plebeian in nature. Many trace their origins to the Anglophone middle and upper classes, whose grip on the local economy was once far stronger than it is today. The city’s large Jewish community has also contributed heavily to the local cuisine. The Montreal bagel, a skinnier and less polished version of the New York variety, is an economical staple that purists buy from the Fairmount or St-Viateur bakeries in Mile-End. And while comparing Montreal Smoked Meat to pastrami is sure to raise the hackles of any traditionalist, no visitor should neglect to visit the cramped, dingy quarters of Schwartz’s Delicatessen.

Brunches or late breakfasts are extremely popular ways to start the day, though whether this is a wholesome tradition or the result of a weekend’s heroic consumption of cocktails is up for debate. Mont-Royal Avenue is home to Beauty’s, the oldest and best-known brunch spot, while Eggspectation is more modern operation that boasts massive portions and glitzier decor. Unfortunately, both establishments sport ponderous lines on Sunday starting at around 10a. On the bright side, these good-natured queues serve as great places to soak up local atmosphere and gossip.

The Plateau Mont-Royal is an area of older residential buildings and is home to thousands of students, artists and young professionals. St-Laurent Boulevard’s trendy clubs and pubs mingle with dozens of restaurants that run the gamut from upscale, decor-first hotspots (Buona Notte) to innovative sandwich shops (Grano), and from the cheap Italian fare at Euro-Deli to the steaks and buckets of coleslaw at Moishe’s. If you are unsure where to go, following the crowds on St-Laurent is a safe bet.

A 10-minute walk east from St-Laurent will bring you to charming and bustling St-Denis Street, which is not to be missed especially during the summer. This is perhaps Montreal’s most Parisian thoroughfare, offering restaurants, bars and cafes, most with cozy patios shoe-horned in wherever they can possibly fit. You could easily spend hours watching the world go by over a cafe-au-lait, a beer or a meal. The aforementioned l’Express and Toque! can be found in the restaurant-rich strip between Sherbrooke Street and Mont-Royal Avenue, along with scores of smaller establishments of every conceivable ethnicity.

The narrow, residential streets of the Plateau conceal some gems, most notably a tight-knit community of French bistros where patrons are invited to bring their own wine. Exemplified by Le P’tit Plateau, Bistro l’Entrepont and Au Petit Resto, these intimate, romantic spots serve some of the best food in the city at table d’hote prices rarely exceeding CAD20. They are great places at which to appreciate local life and practice your French. Prince Arthur Street, located between St-Laurent Boulevard and Laval Avenue, also offers many BYOW (bring your own wine) options. However, with a few exceptions (notably the stick-to-your-ribs Polish fare at Mazurka), the food at these heavily tourist-oriented establishments is fairly middle-of-the-road.

Downtown, many bars and restaurants are found on Crescent and Bishop Streets. In the past, this was where the Anglophones came to eat, drink and be merry. This area overflows with tourists in summer, so it is best to know where you are going before you go; mediocre food is an unfortunate but avoidable fact of life here, as are high prices. Other downtown hotspots include the Old Dublin, which whips up great pub grub and fiddles each night away with live music.

Though hardly comparable to the Spanish or Italian, Montrealers do eat late, especially on weekends. Most restaurants will be open to diners by 6:30p, but it’s best to make reservations for 8p or later if you want company. Downtown hotels tend to direct their guests toward downtown restaurants and nightlife, not out of any animosity or collusion but simply because many tourists are reluctant to venture farther afield. The key to enjoying the hundreds of restaurants and bars that the city has to offer is to be adventurous; you are unlikely to be disappointed.

Recommended tours

Old Montreal To get an idea of life in New France during the 18th and 19th centuries, a walking tour of Old Montreal (Vieux-Montreal) is a must.

A good place to start would be the Notre-Dame-de-Bonsecours Chapel, which is located at the corner of St-Paul and Bonsecours streets in the eastern end of Old Montreal. The nearby Bonsecours Market (Marche Bonsecours), built in 1847, is a testament to Montreal’s influence in British North America. The building, comprising of a Greek Revival portico, a tin-plated dome and cast-iron columns imported from England, is a good example of that era’s neoclassical style. Today it houses boutiques and exhibits.

A few blocks to the west lies Place Jacques Cartier, named after the French explorer who discovered the island of Montreal in 1535. The square is the central part of Old Montreal; City Hall (Hotel de Ville) and the Chateau Ramezay Museum on Notre-Dame Street are situated just to the north, while de la Commune Street and the Old Port of Montreal are a block south. The square is especially enjoyable in summer, with street musicians, jugglers, artists and cafes lining both sides. Caleche drivers beckon strollers to hop on their carriages for a romantic guided tour of the old city.

Moving west along tiny St-Amable Street, which is filled with shops and artists, you will find the Pointe-a-Calliere museum of archaeology and history. It protects and displays the remains of the city as far back as when the first buildings were erected by French settlers in 1642. The old Customs House, now part of the museum, was designed by British architect John Ostell, who was also responsible for the Old Courthouse.

At the north-western edge of Old Montreal you will find the World Trade Centre (Centre de Commerce Mondial), which integrates a number of old buildings through the use of a spectacular atrium that stands several stories high over the former Rue des Fortifications; it’s well worth a stroll. St-Jacques Street, one street south, features several buildings with stately architecture and lavish interiors: the Bank of Montreal, opened at the corner of St-Jacques Street and Jeanne-Mance Avenue in 1847, is a notable example.

Directly across from the bank is Notre-Dame Basilica, a Gothic Revival church built in 1829 and modelled after Notre-Dame in Paris. It’s one of the most popular attractions in Montreal, welcoming over one million visitors a year.

Downtown The museum district is perhaps the most attractive area of downtown Montreal. The Musee des Beaux-Arts, the city’s most prestigious, is situated at the corner of Sherbrooke Street and du Musee Avenue.

While in the area, visitors can enjoy eyeing or buying from chic boutiques along Victorian Crescent Street, especially between Sherbrooke Street and de Maisonneuve Boulevard. This area is also loaded with excellent dining choices, with many restaurants situated between de Maisonneuve and Rene-Levesque boulevards.

Continuing east on Sherbrooke Street, natural history aficionados can observe modern and prehistoric animals, rocks, crystals and precious stones at the Redpath Museum on the McGill University campus. The McCord Museum, just east of the University’s Roddick Gates, boasts a permanent exhibition entitled “Simply Montreal.” This eclectic exhibit offers a glimpse of yesteryear, with a selection of First Nations’ (American Indian) objects, a collection of photographs, sports equipment, toys and magnificent gowns worn by the who’s who of Montreal.

Oscar Wilde once remarked that there are so many churches in Montreal that if you threw a rock in any direction you would probably break a church window. Three of the better known churches are Saint Patrick’s Basilica, Christ Church Cathedral and Mary Queen of the World Cathedral (Cathedrale Marie-Reine-du-Monde), all located within a stone’s throw of each other and more or less downtown. Christ Church Cathedral stands over Les Promenades de la Cathedrale, an attractive underground shopping complex linked to the Underground City. If the weather proves too inclement for an outdoor stroll, enjoy 30 kilometres (16 miles) of underground shopping and dining facilities. Every day, an estimated 500,000 people pass through this network, which links some 60 buildings and provides access to nearly 2,000 retail outlets.

Plateau A tour of downtown Montreal would not be complete without a visit to trendy, multi-ethnic St-Laurent Boulevard, with its hopping bars and restaurants, and eclectic shopping. St-Denis Street, one major thoroughfare to the east, is the home of the city’s Francophone upper crust and is equally essential on any itinerary. Originally a residential street, it is now home to fashionable and sometimes monumentally expensive boutiques, bistros and shops.

The Plateau Mont-Royal is Montreal’s most quintessential neighbourhood, comprising of St-Laurent and St-Denis, quiet residential streets, beautiful green-spaces (notably Parc Lafontaine, Mont-Royal Park and St-Louis Square), charming BYOB bistros and an overwhelming sense of civility and grace. Tourists are thin on the ground here, but one can hardly claim to have experienced Montreal without spending a day wandering through the real heart of this unique city.

Where to stay

Montreal, “The Paris of North America,” essentially consists of a downtown, or modern city, and Old Montreal (Vieux-Montreal), the original city nestled around the Old Port (Vieux-Port). While most of the better hotels are located downtown, Old Montreal boasts some of the city’s finest restaurants and historical sites and has a real sense of old world decor and charm. Many European style hotels are available in this area, where many tourists visit but few stay overnight.

A modest hill separates the two areas, and both are accessible via the subway, or Metro, as it’s called locally. In the winter, one need never even venture outside: Old Montreal is linked to downtown via the World Trade Centre and the Underground City. In fact, Montreal is one of the easiest cities to navigate in North America: no matter where one stays, one will never be too far from the action.

Downtown Downtown is the modern heart of the city and is where most businesses and upscale retail outlets are located. Virtually all of downtown is concentrated within a 10-block area, connected through the aforementioned 30-kilometre Underground City of shops, restaurants, theatres, banks and hotels for those who don’t want to brave winter temperatures.

Ste-Catherine Street is the main shopping area for modest to middle-income budgets, while Sherbrooke Street houses most of the city’s best art galleries, high-end clothing stores and top-quality hotels. The Ritz-Carlton is the grande dame of local hotels, featuring splendid 19th-century architecture. The bar here is a favourite watering hole for locals and visitors alike. Nearby, the Hotel Omni serves as a preferred locale for visiting film and rock stars. The Hotel Le Germain, meanwhile, is Montreal’s leading boutique hotel, offering cutting edge style and high-end amenities at astronomical prices. Mid-range Sherbrooke Street area hotels include the Best Western Ville-Marie Hotel and Suites and the Marriott Residence Inn.

Downtown West The eastern and western fringes of the downtown core reveal their own range of accommodations, from budget to high-end. The luxurious Le Meridien Versailles at Sherbrooke Street is a good example of a popular smaller hotel for out-of-towners. It is situated a stone’s throw away from the west-end Guy Metro station, as is the more mid-range Hotel du Fort.

Downtown East Another significant cluster of mid-range hotels centres around Sherbrooke Street just east of McGill University. The Quality Hotel, for example, just off Sherbrooke Street on Avenue du Parc, offers good value and is a five-minute walk from Place des Arts and the Metro station. Other popular mid-to-high range hotels on the eastern fringe of downtown include the Delta Montreal and the Sheraton Four Points Montreal.

Old Montreal Old Montreal’s 18th- and 19th-century architecture make it a favourite location for film shoots, where it often doubles for 1920s Chicago or New York. So unique is its character that it was declared a historic site in 1964 by the Quebec government and afforded special protection. This area was originally a fortified town and the centre of commerce before many businesses gradually moved uptown at the beginning of the 20th century.

The area has enjoyed an enormous revival and has seen a number of hotels spring up, notably the Hotel Inter-Continental across from the Palais des Congres Convention Centre. This is the only truly modern hotel in Old Montreal, although architecturally it blends wonderfully with the surrounding older buildings. The Holiday Inn Select, in nearby Chinatown, is the nearest mid-range option.

For those eager or willing to leave the name brand hotels behind, Old Montreal offers a host of charming, reasonably priced options. These include L’Auberge du Vieux-Port and, for the truly budget-conscious, the attractive Backpackers of Old Montreal hostel.

The ultimate Old Montreal accommodations can be found at Hotel Pierre du Calvet, a converted home?built in 1725 and restored in 1966?where Benjamin Franklin once stayed. The magnificent 10-room hotel, located in the eastern part of Old Montreal near the IMAX Theatre, is accessible from the Champ-de-Mars Metro. This is a rare opportunity to spend a night in European-style opulence.

During the summer, Old Montreal is a favourite spot for visitors, thanks to its outdoor cafes, cobblestone streets, musicians, artists, caleche rides and boat cruises. In winter, the area comes alive with ice sculptures, light shows and a huge outdoor skating rink. For travellers really looking to immerse themselves in Montreal’s charms, it is a great option.

Getting there

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City information

Multi-ethnic, multi-cultural, multi-national, multi-fun: once the “Meeting Place” for Amerindians, now Canada’s largest metropolis, the country’s business and cultural engine, and a great place to visit–welcome to Toronto!

     Restaraunts / Bars

A Multi-Cultural Culinary Cornucopia From Little Italy to bustling Chinatown, the Annex to Yonge Street and Eglinton, the Danforth to the Beaches, Torontonians rejoice in the multi-cultural mosaic they call home. And nowhere is this more evident than in the vast smorgasbord of culinary delights offered by the Greater Toronto area’s more than 7,000 restaurants, cafes, bistros, diners, pubs, resto-bars and other assorted eateries.

Toronto has everything from the Kama Classical Indian Cuisine’s fiery hot vindaloo and mouth-watering sawara butteryaki at the Rikishi Japanese Restaurant to the upscale French of Arlequin with its duck confit, the power lunches at Acqua, a current hot spot for the downtown business and professional crowd, and the special-occasion deluxe Axcess, on Yonge north of Lawrence.

Cannoli In The Fudge Lying west of Yonge, between College Street and Dundas, Little Italy is a natural place to start the gastronomic search. Host to countless classic Italian ristorantes like Giovanna Trattoria, and Trattoria Giancarlo, this section of real estate is the piece of cannoli in a box of fudge. Although the days of the checkered tablecloth and candle in a chianti bottle may be gone, the mouth-watering food and click-heel service remains. Ironically though, the best pizza does not reside here. We find it a couple of blocks east on Elm, where inside an old Victorian house sizzles Il Fornello.

East of Spadina, from King up to College, sprawls one of Toronto’s Chinatowns?the original. It is here among the proliferation of shops, jewellery stores and banks that we’ll find some of the best Asian-influenced cuisine on the continent: the emperor’s feast at the Bright Pearl Seafood, with imperial lions guarding the entrance; the Thai Princess, with its eager-to-explain uniformed waiters; and the Pho Hung, a Vietnamese hot spot where people actually line up to get in?just like a night club!

Framed by Front to the South and Bloor to the North, Toronto’s downtown core is at its busiest and most expressive during the lunch hour. Sandwiched between Bay and Jarvis, this area encompasses the business and entertainment district of the city. The Shopsy’s Delicatessen location at Front and Yonge is the place if you’re looking to ease your hunger pangs without too much of a pain in your wallet. There’s pastrami on rye, corned beef on a kaiser, roast beef on an onion roll or almost any other deli meat combination you can think of?all topped off with a kosher pickle.

Upscale Uptown Those looking for upscale cuisine and a night cap or two outside the downtown core have only to keep on heading up Yonge towards Eglinton. Clustered around this uptown intersection are some of the city’s very best wining and dining establishments?with a little star-gazing thrown in as icing on the cake. Among the group, North 44, Centro Grill & Wine Bar and Grano stand out: North 44 for the inventive cookery of five-star chef Mark McEwan; Centro for its parade of celebrities and unusual combo of sushi bar and Italian cuisine; and Grano for the fresh bread, pick-your-own display-case antipasti and its feeling of old-style warmth and friendliness.

Sports fans have little to complain about when searching for their favourite foods and ambience. There are plenty of places where you can put your foot on the rail, sip a cool lager and watch your team on a big-screen TV. A good starting point is the Hard Rock Cafe at the SkyDome where you can chew on a burger and take part in the seventh inning stretch at the same time. For a more laid-back scene, you can try Hoops Sports Bar & Grill. Located near the Maple Leaf Gardens, this bar went from frenzied to comfortable once the hockey team moved to the Air Canada Centre. And, of course, there’s Wayne Gretzky’s itself at 99 Blue Jays Way. The Great One, who many argue is the best hockey player of all time, occasionally drops in to autograph a few sticks and napkins.

Decisions, Decisions Still can’t decide? Maybe a short list is in order: for the view, 360 Degrees, the Restaurant at the CN Tower; for the sights, Crocodile Rock on Thursday; for the 5:01 blues, Joe Rockhead’s Rock Bottom Club or the Jump Cafe; for that romantic tete-a-tete, the Corner House or La Maquette; for a wee pint of Guinness or a stout ale, McVeigh’s New Windsor Tavern and Scotland Yard respectively; for a ball-busting-up game of pool, Milwaukee’s Good Bites Beerateria; for a thick, juicy piece of meat done just so, Carman’s Dining Club.

Lest we forget that most important meal of the day, the breakfast-brunch, Toronto offers a variety ranging from the simply solid, void-filling and all-day version at Mars Restaurant to sophisticated entrees, bubbly and jazz accompaniment at Sassafraz.

And we haven’t mentioned African (L’Abidjannaise), Turkish (A La Turka), German (The Musket), Russian (Samovar Barmalay), Serbian (Skadarlija), Armenian (Armenian Kitchen), Persian (Darvish), Middle Eastern (Free Times Cafe), Mexican (Blue Agave), Spanish (Casa Barcelona)?the list goes on and on.

Yes, Toronto has come a long way from its reputation as a steak and kidney pie kind of town. In fact, the culinary school at George Brown College is producing five-star chefs for the rest of the continent and has its own top-notch restaurant in Siegfried’s, and a person could probably spend decades testing every restaurant in town. But, hey, if you’re really desperate to dig into that “eye,” try the Elephant and Castle, Foster’s On Elm, or Duke of Gloucester. The steak and kidney pie is still there. Only now it has a lot of culinary company.

     Recommended tours

The City In A Walk

There are endless possibilities for walking tours in Toronto and, with so many neighbourhoods marked by their own history and presence, it’s hard to know where to start. However, two definite must-see areas are the entertainment and financial districts, and the Old Town of York.

To get a sense of Toronto’s entertainment district, start at the corner of King and John. This area (stretching to Simcoe) is known as Mirvish Walkway or Mirvish Village, named after Ed Mirvish and his son, who have spent awesome amounts refurbishing the area, turning many of the theatres and restaurants into first-class establishments. Their most famous project, the Royal Alexandra Theatre, was saved from certain destruction and has become one of the city’s entertainment jewels.

Just down and across the street, there’s no missing the grand exterior of Roy Thomson Hall, with its glass and upside-down mushroom shape. The interior of this performance hall, a favourite venue for the Toronto Symphony and Mendelssohn Choir, is just as spectacular: luminous and elaborate decor topped by impeccable acoustics.

Time-Warp Architecture Head east and, on the corner of King and Simcoe, you’ll find St. Andrews Presbyterian Church. Constructed in 1876, the church was saved in the 1980’s when SunLife Tower paid over $4 million to build above and below it. The Scottish Romanesque Revival architecture stands in time-warp contrast to the skyscraping steel and glass around it.

Halfway between York and Bay you’ll pass the Standard Life Building, which stands beside the awesome Toronto Dominion Centre, consisting of five monolithic skyscrapers. The creation of famous modernist Ludwig Mies van der Rohe, the centrepiece building of the group?the Toronto Dominion Tower?was the first International Style skyscraper in the city when built in the late 1960’s. The finished product was a meticulously constructed work of art that, while perhaps not visually stunning, set the tone for the architecture that followed.

Heading north on Bay you’ll come across the National Club Building, a Neo-Georgian structure built in 1874 to promote the Canada First movement?patriots who fought to prevent union with the United States. Just up the street is the Canada Permanent Building, an historic site built in 1929. The Art Deco style along with the vaulted entrance and sculpted bronze elevator doors make the interior a must-see. Back up to King and further east stands the Canadian Imperial Bank of Commerce. When it was built in 1931, the 34-storey building was the tallest in the British Empire. Its Romanesque-Revival architecture, handsome wrought-iron detail and gilded mouldings work well even in the contemporary backdrop of the city’s financial district.

Classic Greek Revival Further west and right on Wellington can be found the old Commercial Bank of Midland District, now called Number Fifteen. The oldest structure in the area, it was built in 1845 in classic Greek Revival style. Down Bay and south to Front brings you to the old Toronto Stock Exchange, now the Design Exchange, which exhibits work from some of the world’s finest fashion and graphic designers.

On Front Street stands Union Station, completed in 1927 after 12 years of construction. The work of architects Ross and MacDonald, the building was modelled after the great U.S. railway stations and inspired by the basilicas of Ancient Rome. The massive, 250-metre long building sports magnificent columns, beautifully vaulted ceilings and ornate etchings in its stone walls.

If you’ve got some energy left after visiting the entertainment and financial districts, continue with a tour of the Old Town of York, where you’ll get a sense of Toronto’s rich history. Start at the corner of Yonge and Wellington and walk east to the Gooderham Building, financed by distilleries mogul George Gooderham and also known as the Flatiron Building due to its triangular structure.

Turning onto Front, the Beardmore Building stands out. During the 19th century, the area was known as the warehouse district, and this building was one of the first structures built to accommodate the busy waterfront industries. Further east to Jarvis, the historic St. Lawrence Market bustles more than ever with its fresh fruit, vegetable, cheese and meat vendors. Built in 1844, Toronto’s city hall stood here until 1904 when the space was converted into a public market. Since then it has been expanded, though the old city hall facade is still recognizable. Once home to working-class Irish Protestant immigrants employed in the many factories and warehouses surrounding it, the St. Lawrence Market area today is a trendy neighbourhood, with a nice blend of old and new.

An Educational Spot East on Front, you’ll find Trinity, a beautiful old street that features the Enoch Turner Schoolhouse, the oldest school building in the city and the first to offer free education. It was built in 1848 by Enoch Turner, a local brewer who employed many of the folks who lived in the area. A few steps south is Little Trinity Church, which was built for area Anglicans who couldn’t afford the steep pew rents at St. James Cathedral. While not as spectacular as the city’s other old churches, the simple Tudor Gothic styling gives it an almost magical appeal.

North to King, there’s no missing St. James Cathedral, Toronto’s first Anglican church, boasting the highest steeple in Canada and the second highest in North America. Built in 1819, the church was destroyed in a fire that devastated the entire city in 1849. It was rebuilt by architect Frederich Cumberland, who redid the exterior in Gothic Style.

Walk west and turn north on Toronto Street and you’ll notice a building with architecture resembling a Greek temple, complete with symmetrical Ionic columns. Occupied today by the Argus Corporation, it was once a customs office, a branch of the Bank of Canada and a Post Office.

Back on King, between Church and Leader Lane, comes the magnificent King Edward Hotel, designed by the same architect who oversaw the original City Hall and Massey Hall.

To finish off your tour, return to St. James Cathedral, walk through the Toronto Sculpture Garden, and you’ll find yourself at Market Square. Here you can relax in one of the many cafes, enjoying the bustle of Toronto’s oldest neighbourhood.

     Where to stay

An Accommodating Place At night, that light in the otherwise dark window of the sky, waving weary travellers to a place of comfort, is the magnificent skyline of Canada’s largest city. It’s a skyline reflected in the inky blackness of Lake Ontario, signalling an ethnically diverse cosmopolitan city that welcomes everyone in from the cold with genuine good-hearted hospitality.

Be you business traveller or world-wandering vagabond, when visiting Toronto, there are two major options on where to stay?and more than 32,000 hotel rooms from which to choose! If you are here for a brief visit, then the airport strip is home to many excellent hotels. However, if it’s an extended trip or business that takes you into the city, then the sights and sounds of the bright lights and the big city’s downtown is what you may be looking for.

Classy Fly-By-Nights Imagine a hotel so close to the airport that the only way you’ll see a cab is if you happen to be watching Taxi Driver in your hotel room. Actually located within Toronto’s Pearson International Airport, the Sheraton Gateway is a full amenity, 500-room hotel that is a covered walk from Terminal 3, or a complimentary shuttle from Terminals 1 and 2.

If you’re a little more adventurous and actually would like to leave the confines of the airport, a short loop limousine ride will bring you to the Airport strip. Consisting of Airport and Dixon Roads, this piece of the Monopoly board belongs primarily to the well-known hotel chains. And, with 50 airport hotel locations throughout the world, no landing strip would be complete without the Airport Hilton, providing high-end comfort for those who prefer executive class accommodations.

As well, the newly renovated Best Western Carlton Place, the fashionable Delta Toronto Airport and the Toronto Airport Marriott on Dixon Road are top-flight hotels that cater to the business and leisure traveller alike with indoor pools, health clubs and on-site restaurants. In addition, there is the warm and familiar Days Inn on Airport Road, with facilities for the entire family at very moderate rates.

Hospitality To The Core Toronto’s downtown is approximately a 20-minute ride from the airport, with the core offering a much greater selection when it comes to suitable accommodations?everything from five-star grand dame hotels to bring-your-own-bed youth hostels, from bed and breakfasts to room service on the terrace.

Directly opposite Union Station stands the granddaddy of all Toronto hotels, the Royal York. At the heart of Toronto since 1929, this hotel is what lodging was once all about. Big and spacious, with a ballroom for a reception area, it is also the entryway to the downtown underground shopping complex known as The PATH.

Further west on Front Street is the Crowne Plaza-Toronto Centre. Ideally situated adjacent to the Metro Toronto Convention Centre and around the corner from the CN Tower and SkyDome, this deluxe hotel is equipped to provide for both the businessperson and the family on the go.

Then there’s Renaissance Hotel At SkyDome itself, a four-star hotel right out of left field. Or out in left field. It’s the world’s only sports and entertainment hotel and, with floor-to-ceiling glass walls overlooking the baseball field, a unique sporting experience in more ways than one. Just a long home run away from the SkyDome is the Westin Harbour Castle. Located on Harbour Square with rooms fronting Lake Ontario, this hotel provides spectacular scenery from both the hotel and the 360-degree revolving Lighthouse Restaurant.

Most of the major hotel chains are represented in Toronto’s business and entertainment districts. Across from Nathan Phillips Square and Toronto City Hall, the Sheraton Centre Hotel and Towers on Queen Street West is 43 floors of award-winning accommodations. Around the corner from the Sheraton is the Toronto Hilton on Richmond. The Holiday Inn on King, opened in 1991, is close to the theatre district and is consistently one of the top-rated hotels within the Holiday Inn empire.

All The Marbles With its marble pillars and vaulted ceilings, the King Edward provides Edwardian luxury and elegance within Toronto’s high end business sector. It’s embraced as much for its gracious style as for the gourmet cuisine dished out from Chiaro’s, the critically acclaimed on-site restaurant. If the King Edward is elegance, the Delta Chelsea Inn at Gerrard and Bay takes the cake for size. With 1,591 (or so) rooms, it’s considered the largest hotel in Canada.

West of Yonge on King is the totally out of place Executive Motor Hotel. More of a motel or a motor inn than a hotel, you’d expect to find this in the suburban outskirts rather than in a big city inner core. Nevertheless, if you feel the need for down home comfort with lots of parking, then this independent is available for about half the price of the bigger, swankier hotels.

For those who need longer-term accommodations or accommodations that provide kitchenettes and other conveniences, Toronto has a number of executive apartments available on a daily, weekly or monthly basis. These include the Alexandra Apartment Hotel on Ryerson, north of Queen and east of Bathurst, offering daily maid service and direct phone lines, and Bay Bloor Executive Suites.

Away From The Beaten Path There are a range of B&Bs available in Toronto for those who prefer the old-fashioned comfort of a large house, the company of pleasant hosts and a secluded street close to but away from the hustle and bustle. The Ambassador Inn on Jarvis is a century-old renovated mansion that’s a good alternative to some of the higher-priced chain hotels. Two streets east of Jarvis, in the Old Cabbagetown district, another Victorian B&B, the Aberdeen Guest House, offers a communal setting with large, spacious bedrooms and a weekday continental breakfast.

Finally, for those travelling light and for both the young and the young at heart, the Global Village Backpackers at Spadina and King comes with 200 beds, multiple washrooms, games rooms and a locker facility.

The final decision, of course, is yours. Five-star luxury or bare-bones economy, Toronto is not only an accommodating place but has the accommodations to suit your needs.

C. Dwayne Smith

     Getting there

Getting There:

By Air: Toronto Lester B Pearson International Airport (YYZ) (+1 416 776 3000/http://www.gtaa.com) houses the following airlines:

Air Canada ( +1 800 776 3000/ http://www.aircanada.ca)

Air France ( +1 800 871 1366/ http://www.airfrance.com ) American Airlines (+1 800 433 7300/ http://www.aa.com) Continental ( +1 800 525 0280/ http://www.continental.com)

Delta ( +1 800 221 1212/ http://www.delta.com)

Northwest ( +1 800 225 2525/ http://www.nwa.com)

Southwest (+1 800 435 9792/ http://www.southwest.com) United ( +1 800 241 6522/ http://www.ual.com)

US Airways ( +1 800 428 4322/ http://www.usairways.com)

Rental car companies include:

Avis ( +1 800 831 2847/ http://www.avis.com )

Budget ( +1 800 527 0700/ http://www.budget.com )

Dollar ( +1 800 4000/ http://www.dollar.com )

Enterprise ( +1 800 325 8007/ http://www.enterprise.com)

Hertz ( +1 800 654 3131/ http://www.hertz.com

National ( +1 800 227 7368/ http://www.nationalcar.com )

Thrifty ( +1 800 367 2277/ http://www.thrifty.com )

Airport Shuttles include:

Airlink Airport Service (+1 519 756 1944, +1 877 405 8278)

Air York Inc. (+1 888 795 2777, +1 905 953 9980)

Airways Transit (Hamilton Division) (http://www.airwaystransit.com, +1 905 689 4460)

Coach Canada (http://www.coachcanada.com, +1 800 461 7661)

By Train:

Amtrak services Toronto daily ( +1 800 872 7245/ http://www.amtrak.com ).

By Bus:

Greyhound services Toronto from Nationwide locations ( +1 800 231 2222; +1 416 594 1010/ http://www.greyhound.ca/).

By Car:

Toronto can be accessed by Routes 8, 25, 400, and 401.

Getting Around:

The Westbound GO Bus takes passengers to central stops in Bramalea and Brampton. The Eastbound GO Bus takes passengers to north Toronto including the Yorkdale and York Mills subway stations. One-way cash adult fare is $3.40. For more information call +1 416 869 3200 or +1 888 GET ON GO (438 6646) or visit their web site at www.gotransit.com.

Mississauga Transit One-way cash adult fare is $2.25. For more information, contact Mississauga Transit Information Line at +1 905 615 INFO (615 4636) or visit their web site at www.city.mississauga.on.ca/transit.

Pacific Western Airport Express This is a 24 hour service. Destinations include the downtown bus terminal as well as several major downtown hotels. Connecting service to other downtown locations is also available for an additional fee. For more information call +1 905 564 6333 or +1 800 387 6787 or visit their web site www.torontoairportexpress.com.

Toronto Transit Commission (TTC) runs seven days a week. For more information call +1 416 393 4636 or visit their web site www.ttc.ca.

Taxi companies providing service to the Toronto area include:

Royal Taxi (+1 416 777 9222/http://www.royaltaxi.ca)

Able Atlantic Taxi (+1 416 298 1111)

Beck Taxi (+1 416 751 5555 / http://www.becktaxi.com)

Diamond Taxi (+1 416 366 6868/)

     District guide

The Making Of A Great City People often ask: What makes a city great? What defines it, both for those who live there and for those who visit? Toronto could easily set itself apart by any number of things:

The spectacular ride up the CN Tower, the world’s highest free-standing structure, with its rotating restaurant giving diners a breath-taking view of the city, day or night.

The ferry trip from the Harbourfront across the waters of Lake Ontario to the serene and peaceful Toronto Islands, created by a freak storm.

The more than 7,000 fine dining establishments, bars, cafes, bistros, clubs and dance halls to suit every taste from bohemian to business.

The top-of-the-line professional sports teams?Maple Leafs, Raptors, Blue Jays and Argos?playing at stadiums that are the envy of other cities.

The world-class museums, art galleries, theatres, dance companies, festivals and parades that add creativity and culture to an already vibrant city.

Any of these could serve to define Toronto. But what the city is really all about is the people. And it shouldn’t surprise anyone that the name “Toronto” comes from a Huron word meaning “Meeting Place.” That’s exactly what it is: a multicultural meeting place for more than 4.5 million, home to people of more than 70 different nationalities speaking some 100 languages. That multi-ethnic gathering has given the city an exciting and awesome energy. It has also created a place of wonderful neighbourhoods, each with its defining character and local colour: from Rosedale to Little Italy, from Greektown to Cabbagetown, from one Chinatown to the next.

Canada’s Metropolis The biggest city in Canada and the fifth largest in North America, Toronto is located on the northern shore of Lake Ontario. Laid out in a rectangular grid, the city stretches for more than 100 square kilometres. Yonge Street, known as the longest thoroughfare in the world, is the main north-south route. Toronto is an important centre of international commerce, and houses the Toronto Stock Exchange, second only in North America to the New York Stock Exchange.

Architecturally speaking, Toronto is an amalgam of different styles. In the early 19th century, it took much of its architectural inspiration from the Georgian style. By the end of the 19th century, the city opted for the heavier, bulkier lines of Richardsonian Romanesque. At the turn of the 20th century, the Toronto City Council opted not to put a height restriction on downtown construction as many other cities had, thus giving rise to some of the tallest buildings in the British Commonwealth, including the 34-storey Canadian Bank of Commerce. Of course, these buildings have been surpassed in recent years by the silhouettes that give Toronto its unique skyline: the CN Tower, SkyDome, Royal Bank Plaza, and the TD Centre, to name a few.

Getting Around Getting around Toronto is easier than 1-2-3. Aside from the numerous cabs that swarm the city, the Toronto Transit Commission (TTC) runs a world-class subway system, streetcars and buses. Wherever you end up, there’s sure to be an easy way to get to your next destination.

While the city may once have had a reputation as Toronto The Good, a nondescript place which shut down and rolled up the sidewalks at sundown, nothing could be further from the truth today. The city is alive with some of the best theatres, museums and galleries anywhere. For example, Toronto is the third largest centre of English-speaking theatre productions in the world (next to London and New York), with more than 200 professional theatre companies and 10,000 performances a year.

One of the oldest theatre spaces in the city, the Royal Alexandra dates back to the early 20th century. Saved from demolition by bargain store king and impresario “Honest” Ed Mirvish, the theatre was renovated at great expense and brought back to its original splendour, and is now home to some of Broadway’s finest productions from “Phantom” to “Cats.” The Royal Ontario Museum and the Art Gallery of Ontario present spectacular exhibits for the entire family, while the National Ballet is a world-class dance troupe.

City Of Stars Similarly, there’s a thriving film industry in the city. Often called “Hollywood North,” Toronto is sought after for its diversity, locations, excellent production centres and local talent. The Toronto International Film Festival, which takes place annually in September, draws countless filmgoers.

Eating out in Toronto is an experience unto itself. With a plethora of different cultures and neighbourhoods bumping into one another like pieces of tectonic plates, the cuisine is as diverse as the population?and matching any taste and affordability, from the unlimited expense account to those counting their pennies. In fact, while there are plenty of upscale haute cuisineries where price is of no concern, some of the best food Toronto has to offer is tucked away in the small eateries of the city’s original Chinatown. Here you will find Chinese, Vietnamese, Malaysian, Thai, Indonesian and Japanese dishes to satisfy both the timid and the adventurous. Or check out the Beaches with its lively, pedestrian-filled sidewalks and laid-back neighbourhood character. Greektown and Little India restaurants serve up authentic cuisine, whose aromas waft gently out onto the streets.

This Sporting Life Aside from the Air Canada Centre and the SkyDome housing the city’s pro sports teams, Toronto is also known for its Woodbine horse track, the largest racing property in North America and home to the Queen’s Plate thoroughbred race held each August. And race car fanatics will have no trouble picking up the roar of Molson Indy engines come summer.

While there is so much to see and do, to experience and taste, it’s the residents of Toronto who give the city its special cachet. More often than not, people are glad to stop and give you directions. And don’t be surprised if they tarry and chat a while, recommending places to go or filling you in on pieces of their city’s history. This is what Toronto is all about. Not just a vast, sprawling metropolis. Not just a collection of concrete and cars. But a meeting place. The Hurons gave them the name. They try to do it proud.

     Historical background

Toronto - from Muddy York to Swiss New York If you think that Toronto, like so many other North American cities, is a relatively young centre, think again. More than 8,000 years ago, this spot on the northern shores of Lake Ontario was home to prehistoric humans hunting the dense woods for bears and elk. They were followed by a rich and diverse Iroquois culture spread across nearly 200 villages in the Toronto area alone.

British and French fur traders and explorers arriving in the late 16th century changed the power balance in the region. At first, Toronto was interesting for them only as the end of the canoe route from Quebec City. Etienne Brule, the first European known to visit the canoe “carrying place” the Hurons called Toronto, had no idea he was standing on the site of Canada’s largest city-to-be.

In 1751, the French erected Fort Rouille where Toronto stands today, thus making the city’s earliest European roots French rather than British. Destroyed only eight years later in the Seven Years’ War, the fort lay burnt until hundreds of British loyalists, fleeing the newly formed United States following the War of Independence, populated the Lake Ontario area.

Swampy Garrison Town John Graves Simcoe, the first Lieutenant-Governor of Upper Canada (now Ontario), set up a strategically well-positioned but swampy garrison town of 12 cottages on the lakeshore around the former French post and, in 1793, the town was named Fort York in honour of the Duke of York. Fort York (now an open-air museum) was soon made the capital of Upper Canada, and later of Ontario.

Ironically, Simcoe’s family decided to leave “Muddy York” in 1796, thinking that the stagnating settlement didn’t have much of a future. Nevertheless, by 1800, the rectangular grid-iron that still defines Toronto was laid out, largely ignoring the deep ravines, hills and small rivers that shaped the landscape.

The 700 inhabitants of York came under American occupation for a few days during the British-American War of 1812. But the Americans quickly retreated when the war started to go badly for them. In 1834, it took another influential politician to switch the city’s name back to Toronto. However, it wasn’t all clear sailing for William Lyon Mackenzie, the first mayor of the 9,000-population city under its new (old) name. In 1837, the fiery Scot was forced to flee to the U.S. after leading a failed rebellion to achieve political reform against the so-called “Family Compact,” a group of British nobles who ran the city at their discretion without any checks or balances. The group was finally brought down thanks to public outcry, and Mackenzie returned to Canada 12 years later following a pardon.

Reflecting Puritanical Roots Looking at a map of Toronto in the late 19th century, you can see an urban area reflecting its puritanical roots in the conservative layout. It also lived up to its nickname of “The Big Smoke” with a New World version of industrial London: a busy, polluting harbour, factory chimneys spewing untreated soot into the air, coal-black railways chugging away and the obligatory slums as well as mansions, Victorian colleges and churches. The nickname took on a tragic significance in 1904 when a fire destroyed more than 100 buildings in the downtown core. Fifty years earlier, nature had actually helped create a part of Toronto: The Islands, a 15-minute ferry ride from the downtown Harbourfront, were formed by a heavy storm cutting off a spit of land from the mainland.

Toronto lost 10,000 lives when many of its British immigrant inhabitants volunteered to fight in World War I. Then came the Great Depression of the 1930’s, bringing hunger, homelessness and an unemployment rate over 30 percent. World War II again meant Canadian men trooping off to fight in Europe, but also British children fleeing the bombings and European refugees coming to Canada, with many settling in Toronto.

Post-war Toronto, even though it claimed close to 1 million inhabitants, was nothing like the city of today: no skyscrapers, no large Chinese, Portuguese, Greek or Italian communities, no extensive subway system, no bars and closed and curtained shops on Sundays. The new council of Metro Toronto, joining the city and its suburbs in 1953, initiated an unparalleled construction boom in the 1960’s.

A City of Superlatives Torontonians are proud of their superlatives and sometimes see life as an extension of the “Guinness Book of World Records,” an attitude that helps puff up the city’s collective chest but also lends some credence to its reputation for egocentricity (as in the long-standing joke in the newspaper headline, “Toronto Unscathed in World-Wide Nuclear Holocaust!”). The city lays claim to the tallest free-standing structure in the world (the CN Tower at 553m), the first fully-retractable roofed stadium (SkyDome), the longest street (Yonge Street, more than 1,900 km), Canada’s biggest museum (Royal Ontario Museum) and university (University of Toronto), the biggest castle in North America (Casa Loma), North America’s second largest public transit system (the TTC), and an 11-km maze of underground malls.

Peter Ustinov once called modern-day Toronto a “New York run by the Swiss.” Now that New York seems itself to be run by the Swiss, that label might no longer be appropriate. Nevertheless, the city prides itself on its clean and safe streets and large, open green spaces. More importantly, it is the cultural and financial centre of the country, an economic powerhouse with a budget bigger than that of the province of Saskatchewan, and home within a 160-km area to a full one-third of all Canadians.

The over 50 percent non-white population is shifting the city’s ethnic neighbourhoods around; old Victorian areas, once rundown or abandoned, are being gentrified; the skyline glitters from afar with bank towers and shopping skyscrapers like the 65-storey Scotia Plaza; and urban development is about to radically change the lakeshore. Outdoor festivals, patios, a new openness and willingness to have fun and to partake in public life?this is the Toronto of today.

Jutta Brendemuhl

     Entertainment

That’s Entertainment! Busloads of Americans drive for 10 hours to spend just three hours in Toronto. Why? With over 500 theatre productions every year, the city on Lake Ontario is the second largest stage centre in North America. You can see Kiefer Sutherland in a Tennessee Williams play or the metamorphosis of Kiss’s hard-rocking lead singer to Phantom (of the Opera) in King Street’s Royal Alexandra and Princess of Wales theatres. It is also worth going a little off the beaten track to catch more adventurous offerings in places such as Front Street’s Hummingbird Centre.

The grassroots of theatre are just as fresh and strong in Toronto. Community-centred theatres such as Tarragon and the Factory master challenges like Beckett, as well as drama from new and upcoming playwrights. Modern dance has found a home in the Premiere Dance Theatre, a multicultural venue for music and movement at the Harbourfront Centre. More classical but nevertheless innovative performances can be seen at the National Ballet Company, considered the top dance troupe in the country. The Laugh Resort and Yuk Yuk are still defending their positions as the major comedy spots, but recently Rivoli’s backroom has established a reputation for edgy comedy.

Not only is Toronto one of the most popular American film sets?watch out for huge white trucks and sealed-off streets?it’s also a great movie theatre city, especially at fringe and second-run cinemas like the Bloor or the Fox. Apart from Hollywood fare at entertainment complexes like the downtown Paramount, you can see international films at the Cumberland, and theme retrospectives at the Cinematheque. Not to mention the Toronto International Film Festival, considered among the top in the world.

Hot Nightclub Country No, those queues you see as you walk along Richmond Street aren’t for soup kitchens. You’re in hot nightclub country, the places where only the coolest and hippest get in. Most clubs don’t specialize in one style, but often change their playlist daily from retro to dub to techno in order to attract the most diverse dance crowd. The biggest club around here is the Whiskey Saigon, a three-level auditorium-sized dance hall for the masses. The Big Bop is nearly as big, but stays true to its alternative roots. College Street and environs is another good strip with the smoky Comfort Zone late-night hangout or the en vogue Lava Club.

For live music events, the Bamboo serves up reggae/ragga/salsa, while the nearby Horseshoe Tavern is still the place to see a great young band before they fill the concert halls (and, occasionally, bands like The Tragically Hip putting in sneak appearances). The same goes for the Cameron House, where everything from jazz to experimental music fills the cozy lounge. Toronto is on the A-list for pretty much every major tour in North America, from the Three Tenors in the SkyDome multi-purpose stadium to the Buena Vista Social Club in old Massey Hall or Celine Dion at the Air Canada Centre. The repertoire of classical music offerings is too long to list, but Roy Thomson Hall is a safe starting point for excellent acoustics, be it for the Toronto Symphony Orchestra, the Mendelssohn Choir or the latest Philip Glass opera.

The Air Canada Centre is home to two of Toronto’s big sports teams. Cheer the Raptors as they slam dunk against their NBA competitors and the popular blue-and-white Maple Leafs playing for ice hockey’s Stanley Cup. They compete for spectators with the Blue Jays, who swing their baseball bats in the 53,000-seat SkyDome, and the Canadian Football League Argonauts.

Street Life Central Over the last 10 years, Toronto has discovered street life. In the summer, you will have trouble deciding whether to go to Nathan Phillips Square or to Harbourfront for free concerts and different festivals every weekend. East along the lakeshore, Ontario Place combines waterpark fun with massive open-air rock concerts and the first Imax Theatre (Ontario Place Cinesphere) in a family amusement park.

Icy cold winters don’t keep Torontonians from having fun. If you don’t find yourself at Harbourfront or Nathan Phillips Square for skating and hot cider, check out the plethora of museums. Canada’s largest museum is the Royal Ontario Museum (ROM), an all-round museum with adjoining planetarium, greeting you with four impressive Amerindian totem poles in the hall. The Art Gallery of Ontario (AGO) boasts an extensive and well-presented collection of landscape paintings by Canada’s famous Group of Seven. Don’t miss the world’s largest exhibit of Henry Moore sculptures, beautifully arranged by the artist. The AGO is also known for the skillfully simple Inuit stone carvings, as is the Toronto Dominion Gallery of Inuit Art. On a lighter note, the Bata Shoe Museum is unique; among their 10,000 shoes are Elvis’ blue suede loafers. The Hockey Hall of Fame also has shoes, but only those with blades beneath them.

If you see nothing else of downtown Toronto, you have to walk Queen Street West between University and Spadina avenues: restaurant next to patio bar next to pub next to pool place next to hip fashion store. Since this strip is becoming increasingly commercialized, the more alternative clubs, cafes and galleries have moved to “West Queen West” (Spadina to Bathurst). The uptown?and up-market?equivalent of this area is Yorkville, a handful of blocks of nouvelle cuisine temples like the Sassafraz, and over a dozen exquisite galleries for every collector’s taste, which lend Toronto a bit of Montmartre flavour.

     Fun Facts

City information

From the Canadian Tulip Festival to Winterlude to the Museum of Civilization, a city once considered the quintessential government town has recast itself, along with neighboring, French-speaking Hull, Quebec, as a vibrant, multicultural community.

  Restaraunts / Bars

As the capital city of Canada, Ottawa has been a magnet for immigrants looking for a better way of life and the hope of a brighter future. Besides enriching the city’s cultural heritage, the waves of Italian, East Indian, Lebanese, Vietnamese, and other new arrivals, have brought with them a culinary smorgasbord that is reflected in the many fine restaurants which can be enjoyed throughout the city.

Italian For Italian fare one should go no further than Mamma Teresa Ristorante on Somerset Street in the downtown core. Though slightly on the expensive side, a trip to Mamma Teresa’s is worth every penny. For years Ottawa’s political movers and shakers have met and dined on the restaurant’s succulent veal entrees in any one of a number of semi-private alcoves.

Other Italian eateries that can be depended on for excellent food and fine service in the downtown core include the small, but quaint Fresco Bistro Italiano on Elgin Street and Fratelli on Bank Street in the Glebe. Meanwhile, in the Byward Market there is the slightly upscale Cafe Spiga Trattoria on Dalhousie Street, the always consistent Mangia across the street from Spiga, and the Cafe Baci located just down the street.

Of course, if it’s Italian food you’re after, you can always take a short cab ride to Little Italy, located along Preston Street, and sample from the menus at either Allegro Ristorante or Leonardo’s.

But perhaps the most romantic Italian eatery is the Canal Ritz, located along the side of the Rideau Canal where you can either dine indoors or al fresco on the restaurant’s expansive patio.

Further a field there is Capone’s in the west end of the city and The March House located in Kanata.

French Stradling the Ottawa River and the Ontario/Quebec border, as Ottawa does, the city is also home to many fine French restaurants. Chief among these is the Cafe Henry Burger, which is actually located on Laval Street in Hull across from the Canadian Museum of Civilization. The menu at the Henry Burger is impeccable and the service is second to none. But be forewarned, it is also one of the more expensive restaurants in the city.

Back in Ottawa, Le Cafe, located on the main level of the National Arts Centre, adjacent to the Rideau Canal, is another not to be missed dining experiencem, although a night out for two can cost between CAD 80-100.

Elsewhere in Ottawa, Le Metro located on Somerset Street in the downtown core and Le Jardin in the Byward Market are also sure to please.

Indian For some reason Ottawa has a wealth of fine, reasonably priced Indian restaurants mostly located in the Glebe, just south of the downtown core along Bank Street, and in the Byward Market.

Most notably among these is the smallish, but always excellent Light of India on Bank Street. Also located on Bank Street is the New Delhi, while the Haveli Indian Restaurant and Cafe Shafali can both be found in the Byward Market.

Chinese and Vietnamese While there are many fine Chinese and Vietnamese restaurants in Ottawa, the best among them are located along Somerset Street in Somerset Heights, about a five-minute cab ride from many downtown hotels.

Whether you choose the Yangtze, the Mekong Restaurant or the Shanghai Restaurant you cannot go wrong. But for a real treat, that is both a culinary delight and light on the pocketbook, check out the unassuming Ben Ben Restaurant located across the street from the Yangtze. Ben Ben has been a popular mainstay of the local Asian community for over 15 years. For lovers of Vietnamese food there is the popular and affordable Cam Kong, also located in Somerset Heights.

Mexican Lovers of Mexican food also have quite a few eateries to choose from to please the palate including, Las Palmas and the Blue Cactus, both located in the Byward Market. Traditionalists will love the authentic Mexican fare served up at Feleena’s in the Glebe, while for the best of the bunch for the money is Pancho Villa located on Elgin Street.

Seafood Seafood afficiandos can have their appetites satisfied at any one of three recommended restaurants, each in a different part of downtown. In the Glebe, seafood lovers have made Flippers a mainstay, while The Fish Market Restaurant in the Byward Market is known for its fresh product and succulent lobsters. More centrally located is Nick & Jerry’s Simply Seafood on Albert Street.

Alternative fare For the more adventurous gastronomic travellers Ottawa has much to offer in the likes of the Savana Cafe which serves up rather eclectic Carribean fare on Somerset Street in the downtown core and the popular Big Daddy’s Crab Shack and Oyster Bar which offers up wonderfully diverse Cajun fare including grilled alligator. Then there is Sante at Rideau Street and Sussex Drive in the Byward Market which changes it’s experimental menu on an almost weekly basis.

Nate’s Delicatessen on Rideau Street is another restaurant not to be missed during any visit to Ottawa. Owned by restauranteur Dave Smith, Nate’s is the premiere deli in the city. And if you have the time, why not check out Moe’s World Famous Newport Restaurant which doubles as the headquarters of the Elvis Presley Sighting Society and is filled with tons of Elvis memo