City information

A city of superlatives: one of Canada’s most historic and picturesque; site of its most famous battle; on the banks of its mightiest river. Add excellent dining, shopping and entertainment, throw in surrounding mountains and forests, and you have Quebec

Restaraunts / Bars

No visit to Quebec City would be complete without sampling its famous culinary institutions and its renowned, even notorious nightlife. For a metropolitan area of fewer than 700,000 inhabitants, Quebec boasts an uncommon number of superb restaurants, charming cafes, seething dance clubs and quiet little hideaways.

Most visitors will naturally gravitate towards the city’s sensational French bistros and restaurants. Indeed, most of Quebec’s truly world-class eateries serve some kind of French cuisine; at the forefront are the traditional (and expensive) opulence of Guido Le Gourmet, Laurie Raphael, Initiale and the incomparable Le Champlain, all in Vieux-Quebec, with all setting diners back up to CAD100 for dinner for two.

The Grande-Allee hosts its own restaurant scene, which includes the hectic bistro action at Paris-Brest, La Closerie and other brisker, more casual spots. Haute cuisine finds a home, too, in the newer part of Quebec City, in such landmarks as the revolving L’Astral, and in the Loews Le Concorde hotel, where locally-influenced haute cuisine goes miles beyond the typical revolving fare.

This blending of traditional French cuisine with local ingredients and techniques such as game meats, local cheeses, cranberries, maple syrup products, and so on, is characteristic of many restaurants in the area. Few kitchens in Quebec City entirely escape the hearty, stick-to-your-ribs influence of Quebecois fare. Those that revel in it include the landmark Maison Serge Bruyere, perhaps the city’s best-known restaurant, and the spectacular Manoir Montmorency (where, after dinner in the winter, you can stop in for a unique nightcap at the Ice Hotel’s Absolut Bar!).

The countryside surrounding the city, and especially the tiny townships of Ile d’Orleans, contains numerous other French/Quebecois institutions. La Mairie, in Loretteville’s beautiful town hall, and the renowned Le Canard Huppe in St-Laurent on Ile d’Orleans, are just two examples. Many of these ages-old restaurants are associated with charming inns or B&B’s, and can form part of a delightful day trip away from Quebec City. Each exudes its own sense of quiet civility, especially in winter for the ideal romantic getaway.

Area restaurants also benefit from Quebec’s proximity to the sea, which results in such restaurants as Le Marie-Clarisse in the historic Quartier Petit Champlain, and also in a seemingly incongruous concentration of Belgian restaurants. Witness Vieux-Quebec’s Moss and the charming B&B hideaway Douceurs Belges, just west of the city proper. Moules frites (mussels and fries) are a very popular choice for pub grub or a light evening meal in a city that tends to eschew McDonald’s and its ilk.

Though anyone with a strong distaste for French food will find his choices limited in Quebec City, he will not go hungry. Two outstanding Italian restaurants also highlight the local scene: the famous Cafe d’Europe is in Vieux-Quebec, while Graffiti’s French-Italian fusion cuisine and indomitable wine list can be found on the Grande-Allee. Other options await the intrepid, of course, especially outside of heavily touristed areas. As in France, eating out is considered not just a means to an end but a way of life; substandard food is simply not tolerated and should by no means be expected, even in a neighbourhood Chinese or Vietnamese place.

Of course, even if a meal should somehow fall short of your justifiably high expectations, plenty of distraction awaits at night to put your mind on other things. Though locals bemoan the death of Vieux-Quebec’s traditional cafe culture, a thoroughly civilized afternoon or evening awaits at the popular Pub Saint-Alexandre, the Cafe Krieghoff, or any number of lesser known coffee shops and cafes. It may seem in Vieux-Quebec like there should be more of them, but you will never want for a steaming cup of coffee and good conversation.

Later in the night, things get considerably rowdier at any number of nightclubs in Vieux-Quebec and especially on the Grande-Allee. Some of the better-known nightspots include Chez Dagobert and Chez Maurice, the latter named ironically after despotic former Quebec Premier Maurice Duplessis; both are enormous, pulsating dance clubs that don’t cool down until 3am at the earliest. Meanwhile, La Fourmi Atomik offers a downstairs dance floor and a more refined art gallery atmosphere upstairs. Quieter pints await at the aforementioned Pub Saint-Alexandre or the Thomas Dunn Pub, where you can also take a break from all the steak-frites and baked chevre in favour of a bang-up plate of fish-n-chips!

All in all, the dining and nightlife in Quebec City exude a decidedly French charisma?much more so even than in Montreal. Though cosmopolitan in appearance and attitude, Quebec is less multicultural than many other Canadian cities, and English is rarely?if ever?heard outside of tourist areas. It is, literally and spiritually, the capital of French Canada. As such, this relatively small city manages to remain at the forefront of the North American restaurant scene, which only strengthens its uniquely European feel.

Chris Selley

Recommended tours

One of the beauties of a Quebec City vacation is that the city’s compact nature allows you to stay in any number of architecturally and atmospherically distinct regions while remaining steps away from all major attractions and restaurants. As such, the best way to experience the old-world charm of the city is undoubtedly on foot.

A typical walking tour might begin and end at the Dufferin Terrace, overlooking Place Royale and the St. Lawrence River, with the Chateau Frontenac hotel looming in the background. From here you have easy access to the three main areas awaiting exploration in Quebec City: the lower town, comprising the Vieux-Port and Place Royale; Vieux-Quebec, or the area inside the fortifications; and the Upper Town, especially the area stretching along the Grande-Allee.

Place Royale and Vieux-Port There are two ways down from the Dufferin Terrace?the stairs and the Funicular. Each has its obvious advantages and disadvantages, and the latter is understandably most popular for the return trip! Each brings you out in the heart of Place Royale, near the Batterie Royale and the charming Rue du Petit Champlain.

Wander through the charming shops and restaurants of the Quartier du Petit Champlain, along Notre-Dame, Champlain or Petit-Champlain Streets, towards Place Royale itself. This square, bounded by St-Pierre to the west, Dalhousie to the east and de la Barricade to the north, is where explorer Samuel de Champlain set up a fledgling settlement in 1608. Drop in at the Place Royale Information Centre to find historic and practical details on attractions in the immediate area: the Notre-Dame-des-Victoires church and the Museum of Civilization, for instance.

If you wish to return to Vieux-Quebec at this point, simply loop back around to the stairs or Funicular back to the Dufferin Terrace. Alternately, you can continue north and west into the Vieux-Port, stopping at the Old Port of Quebec Interpretation Centre, which documents the city’s industrial and commercial history, while offering a pleasant environment for many summer activities.

From here you can continue west up St-Paul or de la Canoterie Streets, switching back up and through the fortifications into Vieux-Quebec, in close proximity to many key attractions, including the Museum of French America and the Hotel-Dieu Augustines Museum.

From the latter, you can wind your way along Cote-du-Palais, jog left on St-Jean Street and then right on Cote-de-la-Fabrique, which takes you past City Hall. Hang right on the famous Rue du Tresor and enjoy the diverse, high-quality artwork for sale along this intriguing, narrow alleyway. You will emerge on St-Louis Street, on the other side of the Chateau Frontenac from where you started on the Dufferin Terrace.

Alternately, from the Hotel-Dieu Augustines Museum, you can walk west along the fortifications themselves. The Rue des Remparts will eventually take you to the Artillery Park National Historic Site, and then to Place d’Youville and the St-Jean Gate, which links the Upper Town to Vieux-Quebec. Place d’Youville is a perfect spot to stop off and enjoy street musicians in the summer, or to make a couple of laps around the skating rink in the winter.

Continuing south along Rue d’Auteuil and then St-Denis Avenue, you will emerge at The Citadel, the linchpin of Quebec City’s fortifications, which offers an incredible view over the river and various exhibits chronicling the city’s history. From here it is an easy walk back to the Dufferin Terrace and the Chateau Frontenac.

Upper Town and the Grande-Allee The most spectacular and interesting route from the Dufferin Terrace to the Upper Town is undoubtedly along the Promenade des Gouverneurs, the precipitous boardwalk running under The Citadel and linking the Dufferin Terrace with the National Battlefields Park. Wander around this enormous park, have a picnic and visit the Quebec Museum and attached National Battlefields Park Interpretation Centre. Plaques throughout the park detail its tumultuous and fascinating history.

Eventually you will make your way away from the cliffs and arrive at the decidedly urban action of the Grande-Allee. This magnificent boulevard is full of shops, restaurants and boutiques. In the summer, you could while away an entire afternoon over a cocktail at a sidewalk cafe, but there are many other sights to see in the Upper Town.

Head up Rue de la Chevrotiere or any other side street towards the Rue St-Amable and the Marie-Guyart Building, located at the intersection of de la Chevrotiere and Rene-Levesque Boulevard. For a panoramic overview of your marathon walking tour, ride up 725 feet to the Observatoire de la Capitole. After descending, continue back towards Vieux-Quebec along Rene-Levesque or St-Amable and you will encounter the ornate Parliament Buildings?or National Assembly, in local parlance. Tours are available every day in French and English. Continue along the Grande-Allee, through the St-Louis Gate, and soon you will be once again faced with the grandeur of the Chateau Frontenac.

If you have somehow managed to complete this tour in one day, you now owe yourself dinner at one of dozens of area restaurants. In the summer, you could relax among buskers and concession stands as the sun goes down over the Dufferin Terrace; in the winter, you might choose to get your adrenaline going with an ice toboggan ride before warming up with a hot chocolate. Obviously, a day is precious little time to really savour what Quebec has to offer?no matter the duration of your stay. However, it is a pleasure to know that you can ditch the car and explore on foot.

Chris Selley

Where to stay

Few North American cities combine the old and the new as effectively and attractively as Quebec. Because of this mixture, the city offers many different kinds of accommodation?from modern luxury high-rises to stately historic hotels, tiny inns and bed and breakfasts. In fact, many visitors choose to mix and match, perhaps splurging for a night at the Chateau Frontenac, before retreating to more reasonably priced options in or around the city.

Old Quebec Still, for those looking for the ne plus ultra of Quebec hotels, it begins and ends with the Chateau Frontenac?the grande dame of Canadian Pacific’s many stately properties across Canada. One of the world’s most famous hotels, the Chateau dominates Quebec’s skyline and is the city’s most famous building. Its labyrinthine interior conceals hundreds of different-shaped (and sized) rooms, lavish decor and the world-class Le Champlain restaurant.

On the upper end of the price spectrum you will also find the stylish Hotel Dominion 1912, a boutique hotel with cutting edge interior design. Those familiar with the Hotel le Germain in Montreal will appreciate similar attention to design detail amid a historic rather than postmodern setting. This is fast becoming one of Quebec’s most sought after addresses. Along the same fashionable lines is the Capitole, which looks out over Place d’Youville and houses a theatre as well as the wonderful Il Teatro restaurant.

That said, you needn’t pay through the nose to stay in one of the continent’s landmark hotels. As long as you are willing to forego morning-till-night pampering, any number of moderately-priced hotels in Old Quebec will provide a romantic, historic experience. The Auberge du Tresor, on the wonderful Rue du Tresor, with its famous outdoor art market, claims to be North America’s oldest?the building dates from 1679! Other reasonable options include the Chateau Bellevue, the Hotel de Vieux-Quebec and the Hotel Marie-Rollet. All offer comfortable accommodation in ancient, cozy surroundings.

Upper Town Staying in “New Quebec” means easy access to the restaurants and nightclubs of the Grande-Allee, the historic Plains of Abraham and the Musee de Quebec?but you’re still just minutes from Old Quebec. You’ll find newer hotels here, with the modern Loews Le Concorde in place of the Chateau Frontenac at the head of the pack. The Hilton Quebec is another high-rise, convention-oriented hotel that appeals to business travellers and to those who appreciate modern luxury.

Smaller hotels on or near the Grande-Allee include the Manoir Lafayette, the Auberge du Quartier and the Chateau Grande-Allee. Dozens more B&B’s and moderately-priced hotels are in the area. Each offers its own blend of old and new world charms, and many are less touristy than similar establishments in Old Quebec.

Out of town Many visitors choose to spend some or all of their visit outside of Quebec proper. Day trips to Ile d’Orleans, the Charlevoix region, the Laurentian Mountains, Beauport and Montmorency Falls can be combined with stays at country inns, lavish resorts, rustic cabins or even a hotel made entirely of ice! The lack of urban sprawl and proximity of true wilderness to Quebec makes staying outside the city even more attractive?skiers, for instance, can nip into town for a world-class dinner and drinks and be back at Mont Ste-Anne in less than half an hour!

Indeed, those in search of luxury will find it in the vicinity of this world-famous ski resort, at the Chateau Mont Ste-Anne, or in Pointe-au-Pic at the stunning Manoir Richelieu resort. The aforementioned Ice Hotel, located adjacent to the Montmorency Falls, is based on a Swedish model and provides one of the world’s truly unique accommodation experiences. Despite some curmudgeonly press (surprise: it’s cold!), this stylish and fascinating spot continues to draw thousands.

Ile d’Orleans is the place for intimate B&B’s and small country inns. Le Canard Huppe and the Auberge la Goeliche are typical of several beautiful country inns that combine rustic accommodations with outstanding French and Quebec cuisine. Romantically inclined visitors especially should consider at least a night on this picturesque island in the St Lawrence River.

Families and anyone out for a wilderness adventure can spend a night or two at one of dozens of cabins for rent in the Laurentides Wildlife Preserve and the Jacques-Cartier Park within it. You can spend your days cross-country skiing or snowshoeing in winter, canoeing or hiking in the summer and end up just minutes from your door.

From big-name chains to inexpensive nights in 300-year-old homes, Quebec offers accommodation options for every budget and taste.

Getting there

Getting There:

By Air:

Quebec City Jean Lesage International Airport (YQB) (+1 418 640 2700/ http://www.aeroportdequebec.com) Is located only 15 minutes west of downtown Quebec City and offers a range of services capable of meeting the needs of airports users. It hosts international flights from Mexico and Paris as well as various U.S. destinations. The airport houses these following airlines:

Air Canada (+1 800 776 3000/ http://www.aircanada.ca )

Air inuit, (+1 800-361-2965/ http://www.airinuit.com/)

Air Labrador, (+1 800-563-3042/ http://www.airlabrador.com/)

Continental Express (+ 1 418-872-4298/ http://www.continental.com/)

Jetsgo (+1 866-440-0441/ http://www.jetsgo.com/)

Northwest Airlines (+1 800-225-2525/ http://www.nwa.com/)

Quebecair Express (+1 877-871-6500/ http://www.quebecairexpress.com/

Zoom Airlines (+ 1 866-359-9666/ http://www.gotraveldirect.com/)

Rental car companies include:

Avis (+1 418-872-2861/ http://www.avis.com/)

Enterprise (+1 418-861-8820/ http://www.enterprise.com/)

Hertz, (+1 418-871-1571/ http://www.hertz.com/)

National/Alamo (+1 418-877-9822/ http://www.nationalcar.com/)

Budget (+1 418-872-9885/ http://www.budgetmtl.com/)

Thrifty (+1 418-877-2870/ http://www.thrifty.com/)

Limousine companies include:

Groupe Limousine A-1 (+1 418-523-5059/ http://www.limousinequebec.com/)

Limousine Robert Boucher (+1 418-654-8884/ http://www.quebecairlimo.com/)

Service de limousine Aristo Car (+1 418-660-5055/ http://www.aristo-car.com)

Service de limousine Guy Samson (+1 418-652-7316/ http://www.limousinesamson.com/)

Taxi companies include:

Service fares are determined per trip and for 1 to 6 people. Minivans are also available for groups. All other destinations will be charged at by taximeter. Fixed rates have been established from Quebec Airport for two different locations: downtown Quebec: $27, Airport surroundings: $12.

Airport Taxi Aeroport (+1 418 564-0555)

Taxivan (+1 418 622-1887)

By Train:

VIA Rail is Canada’s Rail network. (+1 888 842-7245/ http://www.viarail.ca/) This railway operates transcontinental service from Montreal to Vancouver and Montreal to Halifax, as well as fast commuter, business and leisure service within the Quebec City-Windsor corridor. There is also service to remote locations in Ontario, Quebec, Manitoba and British Columbia. In conjunction with major bus companies Via Rail offers bus connections from many centers that do not have rail service, to the nearest point on the Via network.

By Bus:

Autobus Fleur de Lys (+1 800 265-0188)

Intercar Atlantique (+1 888 861-4562)

Orleans Coach Lines (+1 888 999-3977)

By Car:

From the United States:

Highways 89 and 5 in Vermont, Route 201 in Maine and Highways 30, 37, and 87 in New York State lead to the province of Quebec. A few miles from Montreal you may take Highway 30 which leads to Highway 20 towards Quebec City.

From Ontario:

Highways 401 (from Toronto) and 407 (from Ottawa) lead to the province of Quebec. Follow the directions to Montreal, and then to Quebec City (Highways 20 or 40). Highway 40 runs along the north shore of the St. Lawrence River from Montreal to Quebec City and is more enjoyable than Highway 20.

From the Maritimes:

Highway 2 in New Brunswick and Route 185 in the province of Quebec lead to Highway 20 towards Quebec City.

By Bus:

Autobus La Quebecoise Inc (+1 418-872-5525)

Autobus Meridien (+1 418-877-6177)

Autobus Inter-Rive Inc (+1 418-832-6982)

Autobus Societe De Transport De Levis (+1 418-837-2401)

By Taxi:

Taxi Coop Quebec (+1 418 525-5191)

TAXI Quebec (+1 418 522-2001)

By Ferries:

Societe des traversiers du Quebec (+1 418 643-2019)

By Train:

VIA Rail is Canada’s Rail network. (+1 888 842-7245/ http://www.viarail.ca/)

District guide

Quebec is one of the most beautiful cities in North America. Founded in 1608 by Samuel de Champlain, this fortified city has a rich history, architecture and culture, which can be discovered and enjoyed on foot.

Old Quebec The Old City is one of the most popular areas for both tourists and locals, not only because of its charm but also because of its many restaurants, pubs, hotels and boutiques. St-Jean Street is the main entrance to the Old City. This street is at the heart of the social and cultural life of the city, with Place d’Youville and the Palais Montcalm Theatre on the south side and Le Capitole hotel on the north. During the summer months, Place d’Youville is a stage for performing artists, and once the weather gets cold, people of all ages ice skate here to classical music!

A little further down is the historic St-Jean Gate, where one can find many small shops, boutiques, pubs and restaurants. The Magasin General L.P. Blouin, an old-time general store specializing in souvenirs and collectibles, is a popular stop. Restaurants and pubs abound, but the Pub Saint-Alexandre, Au Petit Coin Breton, the Brulerie Tatum and, of course, the famous Serge Bruyere are among the best.

City Hall is on Cote-de-la-Fabrique, where the strip of restaurants and boutiques continues. This street leads to the Place de l’Hotel-de-Ville, the Petit Seminaire de Quebec and the Cathedrale Notre-Dame-de-Quebec. The Rue du Tresor, where local artists show and sell their works, is a few steps away and leads to the Chateau Frontenac and the Dufferin Terrace boardwalk. A stroll on the boardwalk is a must, for the splendid views of the St Lawrence River, the Laurentian Mountains and the Ile d’Orleans. The boardwalk also features street entertainers in the summer and two great ice slides in the winter.

Place Royale and Vieux-Port The Terrace ends with long stairs on both sides: one set goes down to the Vieux-Port and Place Royale, the most picturesque area of Quebec, built in 1608 and abounding in restaurants, antique shops, art galleries and boutiques. Place Royale is not as busy as the Old City but just as fascinating. The wonderful Laurie-Raphael, Cafe du Monde, Peche Veniel and L’Inox bar are located in the Vieux-Port area.

Plains of Abraham The other set of stairs goes up to the Plains of Abraham. It can be quite a workout on a hot summer day but the view is worth the effort. The Plains of Abraham are at the heart of Quebec City’s history. Although nowadays it looks more like a beautiful place to have a family picnic, it is the site of a bloody 1759 battle between the French and the English. Several plaques describe the battle and explain its significance to Quebec’s history. The Martello Towers, which were built to counter the British invaders, are strategically located on the Plains and are open to the public.

On the east end of the Plains, the Musee du Quebec is home to an interpretive center about the battlefields, and also hosts numerous art exhibits throughout the year. The Plains are a rendezvous for joggers, rollerbladers, soccer players in the summer and cross-country skiers and tobogganers in the winter. This is also where people gather for the annaul St-Jean-Baptiste celebrations, the Summer Festival and the Winter Carnival.

St-Louis Street and the Grande Allee St-Louis Street runs parallel to St-Jean Street and is equally filled with restaurants and boutiques. Aux Anciens Canadiens is an interesting restaurant for those with a taste for traditional Quebec cuisine. In this 17th century house, the wait staff dresses as the first habitants of the colony did and customers can enjoy some of Quebec’s classics?tourtiere, for example.

Further west is the entrance to the Citadel, a protective fort located on Cap-aux-Diamants. Every day in the summer, troops perform the changing of the guard according to pure military tradition, and The Citadel also has a fascinating museum. The Parliament Buildings are located on the corner of St-Louis Street and Dufferin Avenue, across from the Plains of Abraham. The design is quite interesting, as the architect, Eugene-Etienne Tache, was inspired by the Louvre Museum in Paris. The results are splendid French Renaissance buildings, which are open for the public to discover.

St-Louis Street becomes the Grande-Allee west of the Parliament Buildings. The Grande-Allee is synonymous with entertainment. This is where most of the clubs in the city are located, and there are also plenty of restaurants. In summer, the establishments open their terraces and people go from one club to the other, dancing the night away.

Rene-Levesque Boulevard and Cartier Street Parallel to the Grande-Allee but further south is Rene-Levesque Boulevard. This is where Quebec’s Grand Theatre and Music Conservatory are located. A few blocks West is Cartier Street, another popular entertainment and dining district. With restaurants like Graffiti, Le Cochon Dingue, Mon Manege a toi, Cafe Krieghoff and Momento, this area is a haven for great dining.

Suburbs There are many suburbs around Quebec, and most of them are much more than bedroom communities. In the West end, Sainte-Foy has several great restaurants like Cactus, Nupur and La Faim de Loup, while Le Clap movie theatre specializes in international films.

On the St Lawrence River, Beauport’s picturesque Royale Avenue leads to the Montmorency Falls. The majestic Ile d’Orleans, an island in the middle of the St. Lawrence River with orchards, farms, charming inns and traditional cuisine, is like having the country in the city. The great outdoors is just a short drive from the Old City?that’s the beauty of Quebec. From fascinating historic buildings to amazing dining and entertainment, powerful rivers and breathtaking mountains and forests, you can have it all.

Valerie Michaud

Historical background

Quebec (keh-BEHK) is Canada’s oldest city, founded by Samuel de Champlain in 1608. Its name was an adaptation of the Algonquian word meaning “the river narrows here”?Champlain chose this spot for the settlement because the high cliffs and narrowing of the St. Lawrence River offered excellent natural and strategic defences.

While regarded as the centre of New France, the growing North American empire of the French, the colony struggled. The harsh climate combined with the rough terrain failed to attract great numbers of French families to the New World. Further, many of the colony’s few settlers were migrants?Couriers de bois?who would come in from the wilderness with furs they had gotten in barter with Native Americans. These men had no interest in taking up permanent residence in Quebec, and often ended up marrying Iroquois or Huron women.

At one point, King Louis XIV had French women sent to New France as wives for the men who inhabited the fledging settlement. These filles de roi exemplified the state of the colony in its early days. In 1666, 58 years after its founding, the population was only 547. Only with increased incentives and persuasion was France able to increase the number of permanent residents to 1,500 by the end of 1690, and to 34,000 by 1730?120 years after the creation of New France.

In the 18th century, the city of Quebec finally began to grow. With a larger population, industry and trade flourished. Couriers de bois continued to bring pelts and furs into the marketplace to trade for other goods, which they could take back into the wilderness. Stores and workshops were built on the river’s edge in the Lower Town.

This market area was Place Royale, still one of the Lower Town’s most popular landmarks, along with the Notre-Dame-des-Victoires Church. The latter is noted for having its altar shaped as a fort. It was completed in 1688 and stands on the site of Champlain’s very first settlement. Meanwhile, the Upper Town gradually began to take its current shape. Houses and schools sprang up within the city’s walls as French citizens began to put down roots in Canada. Today, the Upper Town is full of gourmet restaurants, fine hotels like the Chateau Frontenac, and numerous shops and boutiques. You will also find the Quebec National Assembly here.

As the city grew in size, so did its economic and military importance. The French knew they needed to create a strong system of defenses to protect the capital of New France from the enemy British, ensconsed to the south in the American colonies. What they constructed was the Citadel. Perhaps the most famous of Quebec City’s landmarks, it stands 106 metres above the city on Cap Diamant. It was assumed that an attack would come from the river, the city’s most vulnerable point, and that is where the cannons were aimed.

Unfortunately for the French, the British surprised the French. General James Wolfe and 4,500 British soldiers scaled the steep cliffs leading to the Plains of Abraham, under cover of darkness from September 12-13, 1759. The French commander, Lieutenant-General Louis de Montcalm, ordered his ?army? (a combination of French regulars and poorly-trained militiamen) to meet the enemy. In a battle that lasted 15 minutes, the British routed the defenders. They battered the city with cannon fire until the French army retreated to Montreal, where they would be defeated a year later and New France would fall to the British.

The surrender of Quebec was followed by a period of military occupation and martial law until 1763, when a peace treaty was signed in Paris. With New France now secured as British North America, immigrants arrived to occupy existing cities and to build new ones. The large influx of British, Scottish and Irish immigrants into Quebec City created considerable tension, but it also fostered the international flavour the city still retains. A mingling of cultures over time has resulted in a unique lifestyle and atmosphere.

With the British came order and wealth, and the city grew in leaps and bounds. New sectors of the city were built with their own architecture and character. Agriculture flourished and trade routes extended deeper into the heart of the continent and into the American colonies. But beneath all the British influence remained the “French identity.” Citizens refused to give up their language or their culture to the English speaking authorities.

This patriotic fervour has only increased over time. In 1774, the British passed the Quebec Act, which allowed the French citizens to practice Roman Catholicism and to use French civil law. Still, French-speaking citizens struggled to preserve their culture. During the debates on Confederation in 1867, Quebec representatives refused to join unless guarantees were made to protect the identity of French-speaking people in the newly formed Dominion of Canada.

Quebec City has continued as a hotbed of political activity for those who feel that the French influence in Canada is not strong enough, or that the French are poorly represented and inadequately supported by their government. But despite its strong French identity, Quebec remains a city rich in diverse cultural flavours, styles and history. It is a city of passion. Its residents are not only passionate about their politics, but about their desire to enjoy life to its fullest.

Mark Will

Entertainment

Quebec may be a small city but there’s always plenty to do, even during the cold winter months. Its rich history and culture are effervescent, making residents and visitors want to enjoy their city even more.

Music and theatre Culture is behind each and every stone wall in Quebec City. There are plenty of theatres, presenting a wide variety of shows. The Grand Theatre is at the heart of the city’s entertainment life. It’s home to the Music Conservatory, the Quebec Symphony Orchestra, the Opera de Quebec and the Trident Theatre, which features plays throughout the year.

The Periscope and Bordee theatres, though of smaller stature, are also much appreciated and often present alternative plays. The Palais Montcalm is one of the most beautiful theatres in the city, standing atop Place d’Youville and featuring a wide range of events from classical music to humour. Le Capitole, also located near Place d’Youville, is a richly decorated theatre offering musicals like “The Elvis Story.” Le Capitole also has its own hotel and cabaret, for more intimate entertainment.

Quebec City’s beautiful churches are well-known, in part for the wonderful concerts hosted. The Violons du Roy, a famous string orchestra, performs regularly in local churches. The Salle Albert-Rousseau, located in Sainte-Foy, is the choice of many artists who wish to perform in a smaller state-of-the-art theatre. Pop artists who attract large crowds usually head for the Colisee de Quebec, a large arena where the NHL Nordiques hockey team used to play. Finally, artists who wish to perform under the stars can do so at the Agora du Vieux-Port, a popular outdoor theatre.

Festivals and carnivals During the summer, Quebec City becomes one giant theatre. Artists perform in the streets, in parks, and pretty much everywhere a crowd can gather. In June, hundreds of children from several countries come to the Montmorency Historic Site, near the famous Montmorency Falls, to share their cultures through dance and music. In July, the Summer Festival brings local and international artists to town. For 10 days, stages spring up everywhere in the city: Place d’Youville becomes its own performance space, a large stage is put together in front of the Parliament Buildings and most city parks are turned into small theatres where jazz, folk, pop, rock, opera and every other imaginable genre resonates. For less than CAD10, you can purchase a pin that gives access to all shows during the festival.

In August, Quebec City goes back in time with the Fetes de la Nouvelle-France, which celebrates the 150 years of French Regime in the 17th and 18th centuries. Peasants and seigneurs gather at Place Royale for five days of celebration. During the last week of the summer, Quebec City has its annual fair with all the rides, animals, clowns and cotton candy one would expect.

During the winter, Quebecois find a way to entertain themselves despite the cold with their famous Winter Carnival. For more than 47 years, they have enjoyed many sporting, artistic and cultural activities during this magical carnival, which allows them to rediscover each year the wonders of winter. An international ice sculpture contest, a parade, an ice castle and a canoe race on the icy St. Lawrence River are some of the activities that take place during these 17 days and nights of sheer fun. Ice rinks also spring up everywhere?at Place d’Youville, for instance, people of all ages skate to classical music.

Museums and galleries Although Quebec City offers tons of outdoors activities, those who prefer to stay inside won’t be disappointed. There are plenty of museums, malls and movie theatres. The Museum of Civilization is a must: it features many exhibitions on topics as varied as the beginnings of civilization, the history of clothes, naval history and humour. There are two permanent exhibitions: “Nous les Premieres Nations,” which presents the history and culture of the Native peoples of Canada, and “Memoires,” which relates the history of the first European settlers. The Musee du Quebec, meanwhile, is a treasure of fine art. It has held exhibitions with some of Canada’s most famous artists, including Krieghoff and Dallaire, as well as world-renowned artists like Rodin and Tissot.

Those interested in Quebec’s history will enjoy the Musee des Augustines de l’Hotel-Dieu de Quebec, which relates the history of the sisters who founded the first hospital in North America, as well as the Musee de l’Amerique francaise and the Musee du Fort, which focus more on military history. The Battlefields National Park has an interesting interpretation centre, with a multimedia show on the battle of the Plains of Abraham.

Malls The Old City is filled with shops and boutiques, but there are many great malls in the Greater Quebec City area. Les Galeries de la Capitale is often the favourite because of its indoor entertainment park with rides, an ice rink and movie and IMAX theatres. Place Laurier is the largest mall with 350 stores, while Place Sainte-Foy has many upscale stores and designer boutiques.

Sports Many visitors take at least a day to swoop down the slopes or hit the links at Mont Saint-Anne or Stoneham, both just minutes east of the city. For those who prefer to watch their sports, the area’s several hockey teams are not to be missed. The Remparts play in the Quebec junior league, while the Citadelles are the Montreal Canadiens’ minor league affiliate in the American Hockey League. Both offer outstanding value and fast-paced entertainment.

Nightlife At night, the Grande-Allee is the place to be. This is Quebec City’s busiest street, filled with restaurants, cigar rooms, cafes, pubs and nightclubs. Chez Maurice is one of the most popular clubs in the city, along with Chez Dagobert, and Le Vogue. As a general rule there are no cover charges to get into nightclubs, which means that people can go from one to the other all night long.

In the end, a walk in the Old City, especially on the Dufferin Terrace, is for some the best entertainment available in Quebec City. The view is absolutely gorgeous. Wander through the streets, watch a clown draw a smile on people’s faces, enjoy the afternoon in a nice cafe or dance the night away.

Valerie Michaud

This entry was posted on Thursday, June 14th, 2007 at 2:36 pm and is filed under Air Car Hotel Package, Tips for travellers, Places of Interest in Canada. You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed. Responses are currently closed, but you can trackback from your own site.